What did you do to your TJ today?

Sanded and painted the bumper, Raptor lined all mount areas, then put the rack on I had coated, touched up the paint, painted the bumper, installed the last bezel and fixed an annoying bump that turned out to be a parking brake line slapping a control arm-

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He did ask if he should.. jokingly hopefully 😳
Someone got me started on white bezels……

Vanilla Ice is coming along nicely!!!!!!!!

Thanks John- I’m glad to be able to focus on it again- the rack has all hand knobs where needed for tool free tilt back to remove the top-

Winch, shift cable, rear bedtred, more paint correction, Exogate, rear axle seals get redone by shop, genright fenders are next - hopefully we get the rear bumpers sorted out next week. This is hands down the most “new feeling” TJ I’ve done- I’m happy with my choices underneath so far.

The only thing hanging is the body/mml lift- I’ve yet to make the 33’s rub so I’m going to get the winch on and see how it does first.

Climbed the most vertical climb I’ve ever climbed in it today-so steep I asked my son Wyatt “is this a good idea?”. His response- “I’m putting on my seat belt “ my response “you mean you ain’t buckled in?!?”


Now I’m looking at the UCF high clearance skid- pretty sure I want to do that if it doesn’t create drama- sure love to hear from you guys that have done one on a Rubicon. My lift is about 2”.

Drove the 03 to @Hogs’ last night for his winch delivery - man it is soooo good again- no telling how long the cracked mount had been going on. Once I drove it about 40-50 miles it cut the tires true again after the ratchet strap episode and started really driving good again.
 
Someone got me started on white bezels……



Thanks John- I’m glad to be able to focus on it again- the rack has all hand knobs where needed for tool free tilt back to remove the top-

Winch, shift cable, rear bedtred, more paint correction, Exogate, rear axle seals get redone by shop, genright fenders are next - hopefully we get the rear bumpers sorted out next week. This is hands down the most “new feeling” TJ I’ve done- I’m happy with my choices underneath so far.

The only thing hanging is the body/mml lift- I’ve yet to make the 33’s rub so I’m going to get the winch on and see how it does first.

Climbed the most vertical climb I’ve ever climbed in it today-so steep I asked my son Wyatt “is this a good idea?”. His response- “I’m putting on my seat belt “ my response “you mean you ain’t buckled in?!?”


Now I’m looking at the UCF high clearance skid- pretty sure I want to do that if it doesn’t create drama- sure love to hear from you guys that have done one on a Rubicon. My lift is about 2”.

Drove the 03 to @Hogs’ last night for his winch delivery - man it is soooo good again- no telling how long the cracked mount had been going on. Once I drove it about 40-50 miles it cut the tires true again after the ratchet strap episode and started really driving good again.

Looks very Overlandyish. 😝
 
You are correct but since I have the rockjock rear sway I had to swap side to side and install a BMB p-brake conversion kit. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.

I see there is method to your madness ! You should swap the pads side to side so the indicators are pushed into the pads as designed , also they are designed to run in that direction ( don't really think there are any problem running them backwards) but you never know. those BMB cables must be really long !
 
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I see there is method to your madness ! You should swap the pads side to side so the indicators are pushed into the pads as designed , also they are designed to run in that direction ( don't really think there are any problem running them backwards) but you never know. those BMB cables must be really long !

The cables are stock length. The indicators get pushed into the rotors and should be on the inside pad.
 
I think you have those on the wrong side don't you ??? Mine have the calipers trailing not in front . You would have to have the cables loop around for the parking brakes. This is my passenger side backing plate.
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The parking brake cable comes in from the front as shown in this picture.
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Also as to calipers the bled fitting goes to the top , so this will tell you which side and as for the pads the wear indicator should be were it would be pushed into the pads not dragged away . This way they make the most noise and they really should be on the inside pads as they wear first.

For some odd reason Centric chose to put the indicator on the outside pad and only on the driver side , I am running the same Centric Fleet Para-aramid composite pads . These are the best for sure , police and emergency vehicles use.
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Parking brake kit installed.

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New tj length p-brake cable installed from the front.
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The casing moves instead of the cable. This also increases the leverage on the p-brake.
 
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Weather was pretty good today so I rolled the chassis outside to go ahead and weld in the new motor mounts after finding out the engine hoist I borrowed from my buddy won't reach out far enough to lift the HEMI in the frame... So off to HF in the morning to pick up their 2 ton hoist that reaches out about 16-18 inches farther and a couple of inches higher.. As luck would have it, they are on Black Friday sale this weekend.
I'll have to figure out which motor mount goes on which side of the motor. The Advance Adapters instructions don't specify which side..that would be handy for them to spell that out for you since they will both bolt up on either side..
Would like to use a separate transmission cross member like what Nashville TJ used. Maybe he'll let me know what he used since I couldn't find where he got the kit he welded up for his in his build thread.
 
Parking brake kit installed.

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New tj length p-brake cable installed from the front.

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The casing moves instead of the cable. This also increases the leverage on the p-brake.
That's weird but if it works then it's hard to argue with . I would have to have someone put the park brake on and off to see what is going on with that cable and make sure it was not rubbing something or causing any unforeseen problem. Let us know how it is working out.
 
The cables are stock length. The indicators get pushed into the rotors and should be on the inside pad.

Yeah the indicators usually are on the inside pads because they wear out first but if you check out those Centric pads they are on the outer pads. Yes the indicator drags on the rotor when the pads get too worn but they also should be on the leading side of the pad not trailing because they make more noise that way.
Upper left corner of the picture is an outside pad and it has the indicator on it and that would need to be the drivers side pad. That way when the pad gets worn and the indicator hits the rotor it is pushed toward the pad not dragged away from it , that is the correct configuration .
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View attachment 379509Weather was pretty good today so I rolled the chassis outside to go ahead and weld in the new motor mounts after finding out the engine hoist I borrowed from my buddy won't reach out far enough to lift the HEMI in the frame... So off to HF in the morning to pick up their 2 ton hoist that reaches out about 16-18 inches farther and a couple of inches higher.. As luck would have it, they are on Black Friday sale this weekend.
I'll have to figure out which motor mount goes on which side of the motor. The Advance Adapters instructions don't specify which side..that would be handy for them to spell that out for you since they will both bolt up on either side..
Would like to use a separate transmission cross member like what Nashville TJ used. Maybe he'll let me know what he used since I couldn't find where he got the kit he welded up for his in his build thread.

Helps if you tag @NashvilleTJ to make sure he sees it.
 
Yeah the indicators usually are on the inside pads because they wear out first but if you check out those Centric pads they are on the outer pads. Yes the indicator drags on the rotor when the pads get too worn but they also should be on the leading side of the pad not trailing because they make more noise that way.
Upper left corner of the picture is an outside pad and it has the indicator on it and that would need to be the drivers side pad. That way when the pad gets worn and the indicator hits the rotor it is pushed toward the pad not dragged away from it , that is the correct configuration .
View attachment 379520

Was not aware of that configuration. I'll definitely change that. These are the pads @mrblaine sent with the disc conversion. Both outside pads have the indicators.