What did you do to your TJ today?

I did it. Figured out what was wrong with the 3rd brake light. Not sure how to fix it permanently, but it works for now. LOL I took a jumper box and clamped screwdrivers to it, then touched the studs on the tailgate. The light lit up, so that told me bulbs were good and wiring to through tailgate was good. Then I rigged the pedal to be depressed so I could go back and use a test light to see if the other studs had power. Yep, all was good there.

I was thinking that because my tailgate doesn't seem to shut correctly, it wasn't getting full contact. So I tried pushing on the tailgate and even though it did go in a little, still no brake light. I tried to twist the studs in the body, in hopes to unthread them a bit, but that didn't seem to do anything. I ended up pull out the ones on the tailgate a little. Now when it is shut, it comes on. Just don't know for how long. Anyone have a fix for this?

Here is the 3rd brake light lit up. I think I will order some Matte vinyl and remake it though, I'm not thrilled with the gloss look.

View attachment 72708

The tailgate fit can be adjusted with the latch strike pin on the left side of the body and a torx bit.
 
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I spent the whole day installing the famous tuffy Hood Lock ... Honestly, this product is a waste of money ... It's as if I threw my money out the window. Already it takes several attempts to adjust the product so that the hood can close properly ... And still it s not yet well adjusted. But what disappointed me the most is when it's unlocked, I'm still forced to push my fingers to pull the hood trigger!?!
It is inadmissible anyway ... They could still make a Hood Lock that can open the hood without having to push his fingers. Otherwise what's the utility ?
For those who have already installed this product, I am curious to hear your opinion and if you have the same worries as me ...View attachment 72730View attachment 72731

Envoyé de mon MHA-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk

I have one on my TJ. I did have to grind some metal off the mounting plate for the hood lock in order to clear the hood latch. Otherwise works great. Having to still use the hood latch after unlocking it isn't an issue for me.
 
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I have one on my TJ. I did have to grind some metal off the mounting plate for the hood lock in order to clear the hood latch. Otherwise works great. Having to still use the hood latch after unlocking it isn't an issue for me.
When you speak about hood latch, you mean this one...?
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Envoyé de mon MHA-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
I spent money !!

Some time in July the lockers quit engaging. I finally addressed that issue this week. The easy part was replacing the transfer case position switch. But that was only the mechanical problem.

Then came tracing down the electrical gremlins.
Things which quit over the past 3 months.

Interior dome lights.
Second power supply beside the cigarette lighter.
The 4WD and Front/Rear Locker dash indicator lights.
The Locker Switch.

All take power from the same wire, buried in a wire loom with 200 other wires running from the under hood fuse box, behind the battery and into the dash.Amazingly, after opening the wire loom, the only corroded wire was on top. Splice in a 12" piece of wire, DONE !!!! Everything works like new again.

The shop also replaced the heater core under warranty and rebuilt the front driveline from the transfer case to the pinion.

I found a shop I can trust a few years ago in Spokane, WA. The guys at Tune Tech on Monroe are amazing !!! As is Jade who runs the shop. It is a 5 hour drive to get there but every time I leave, I'm confident the work was complete and done right. Well worth the motel room and 10 hour drive. And warranty.... they did the second heater core replacement free, a 4 hour job. The electrical gremlins took 2 hours to trace and repair. At times other mechanics would look in to offer advice. And knowing I had a 5 hour drive home they hung around till the job was done at 5:45. An amazing crew. Not many shops excell in customer service today but these guys could write a book on it.
 
I found a shop I can trust a few years ago in Spokane, WA. The guys at Tune Tech on Monroe are amazing !!! As is Jade who runs the shop. It is a 5 hour drive to get there but every time I leave, I'm confident the work was complete and done right. Well worth the motel room and 10 hour drive. And warranty.... they did the second heater core replacement free, a 4 hour job. The electrical gremlins took 2 hours to trace and repair. At times other mechanics would look in to offer advice. And knowing I had a 5 hour drive home they hung around till the job was done at 5:45. An amazing crew. Not many shops excell in customer service today but these guys could write a book on it.

Sounds like you found a good shop. I checked on Mapquest, they're 39 hours from me :(
 
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I tried to get the drivers seat out lastnight but failed. The back bolt just sat and spun and the front one once it starts to come out the top bolt pinches the socket wrench and cant move anymore.how did you get them out?


I used a 3/8 inch traditional ratcheting socket wrench with shallow sockets and a torx bit for the one bolt in the back. I sat in the back seat to get more leverage because the bolts needed a little muscle...or try what @Mike_H suggested, open/closed combo/ratcheting wrench. I hope that helps. If you have the right tools it will be easy. (shallow, low profile tool, stay away from the 1/2 wrench and deep sockets)
 
Finally got around to installing my grab bars. Still to this day i can not understand why Jeep used different threads in different places.
Tailgate hinge 5/16 -18.
Roll bar to windshield M8 1.25

I wish they would have made up their mind and used one standard.

Also replaced both idle pulleys no more squeak.
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I just ordered an interstate MPT-78DT battery...now I can actually get this thing started...and moved so I can swap the hood and fender for one that is not damaged on the 05 LJ
 
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