Swiffer dry disposable rags do great on getting the dust offI went to tahoe the other day and got dust EVERYWHERE so I had to spend about 7 hours today cleaning the whole thing inside and out pain in the a** but it looks good now
Swiffer dry disposable rags do great on getting the dust offI went to tahoe the other day and got dust EVERYWHERE so I had to spend about 7 hours today cleaning the whole thing inside and out pain in the a** but it looks good now
Nailed it.Looks like the redline boot...?
Joined a few Jeeps down to cruise Hoosier National Forest. First time with the dogs, used a cheap harbor freight bungie cord net. It worked but going to get something much more fit for purpose. Loved having them with me
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Can you share what you used for the extended snubbers? That looks super clean. I cut the tops off another set and glued them together but could use another inch or two.Installed LED headlights. Removed front bumper end caps. Removed stock spare wheel snubbers and replaced with snubbers sized to fit larger than stock spare.
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1 lb. Harbor Freight rubber mallets.Can you share what you used for the extended snubbers? That looks super clean. I cut the tops off another set and glued them together but could use another inch or two.
Thank you the reply and details. I’ve heard of others doing this but have never actually seen how it looks until your pics. That’s looks like a factory upgrade. Will give it a try.1 lb. Harbor Freight rubber mallets.
I can’t take credit for this, someone else on this forum had done it and I just copied.
I cut the handles off, drilled all the way through with a 1/4” bit for the screw, then counter sunk down with a 3/8” bit to seat a washer and leave about 1/2” of screw sticking out. I reused the original torx screws, only because I couldn’t find decent length bolts with correct threading without driving 40+ miles.
Be careful when drilling down through as there is a nail passing across the center of the head holding the handle on and it will kick out.
For the very bottom snubber that is attached to the tub, a mallet was too long and put too much outward pressure against the gate latch. Two of the smaller gate snubbers (the tub snubber is slightly longer) screwed together with a couple torx framing screws were the perfect length for the bottom of the spare to rest against without putting any pressure against the gate latch.
EDIT: I can’t get pics to upload for some reason, so hopefully this explains alright.
Are you still running OEM Spicer joints in your nice chromo axles?Got the US-made Revolution axle shafts installed in the front Dana 30 and rear Dana 44. Not a very sexy mod, costs a good chunk of change and the Jeep doesn’t do anything different, but it’s peace of mind when running 35’s on beadlocks.
You didn't do it any favors, but it is a good agm, and a nice slow trickle charge may bring it back. I had one of those in my camping trailer and I would kill it dead and recharge it and kill it dead over and over and I always seemed to bring it back to life. I think in the end you will get less life, but I have brought mine back to life from less voltage before.Realised I have probably murdered my battery in moronic fashion... left the cabin lights on for 9 days.
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Are you still running OEM Spicer joints in your nice chromo axles?
I think your jeep is dropping dogs.. Looks like they have all expired.Last night and today I installed a 1” Currie body lift along with a Brown Dog 1”MML
Then the UCF Ultra high clearance skid plate. If finished up this portion with a new set of M/T 15x8 rims.
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Appreciate the heads up, I will give this a try. Red that you can all link it in parallel with a live battery to get things started but I have a smart charger on order as I only have a conventional one at the moment.You didn't do it any favors, but it is a good agm, and a nice slow trickle charge may bring it back. I had one of those in my camping trailer and I would kill it dead and recharge it and kill it dead over and over and I always seemed to bring it back to life. I think in the end you will get less life, but I have brought mine back to life from less voltage before.
A trick if you are having trouble is if you have a older non-auto battery charger you may need to use that to kick the voltage high enough for the auto chargers to see it then change the charger to the new auto charger so it won't over charge it.
The older chargers will charge high amps forever and never stop, where the new ones will autoscale amperage till the point where it doesn't over charge then turns into a trickle charger. The con of the autocharger is that it needs a certain amount of voltage to start working.
I keep my old battery charger just for such occasions.
Btw I have that same battery in my 3/4 ton truck it is a good battery and when my yellow top aux battery fails it will get another one of these.
Attempted to remove the windshield bolts to install some quick disconnect mirrors...
2 came out easy with heat (food butane micro torch)
1 was already stripped and got more stripped
1 broke the bolt extractor in the 2nd stripped bolt.
Threw in the towel and will retackle another day.