What did you do to your TJ today?

Finished up a bunch of electrical installs including new stereo, speakers, factory sound bar, subwoofer, and CB. While I was at it, I pulled everything out of the interior and washed it all out - PO must have lived in a pretty dusty area and left it outside all the time.

Before:
IMG_2557.jpg


After:

IMG_2562.jpg
 
Can you share what you used for the extended snubbers? That looks super clean. I cut the tops off another set and glued them together but could use another inch or two.
1 lb. Harbor Freight rubber mallets.
I can’t take credit for this, someone else on this forum had done it and I just copied.
I cut the handles off, drilled all the way through with a 1/4” bit for the screw, then counter sunk down with a 3/8” bit to seat a washer and leave about 1/2” of screw sticking out. I reused the original torx screws, only because I couldn’t find decent length bolts with correct threading without driving 40+ miles.
Be careful when drilling down through as there is a nail passing across the center of the head holding the handle on and it will kick out.
For the very bottom snubber that is attached to the tub, a mallet was too long and put too much outward pressure against the gate latch. Two of the smaller gate snubbers (the tub snubber is slightly longer) screwed together with a couple torx framing screws were the perfect length for the bottom of the spare to rest against without putting any pressure against the gate latch.

74E500A9-FEA2-4ABF-AD9F-E6BB505C5A75.jpeg


49B7B386-F80A-4D7A-BD93-F07BF58A8508.jpeg


1F2C44D9-56D0-4694-84F1-D7D2E94A7E4B.jpeg


BB01BC2C-AC78-4455-8805-0DB16A78E7BF.jpeg


D0466B81-F53B-406A-AA9D-9EADD13A172E.jpeg


D6B6A780-8BDA-41C3-A30B-4EDED56036B7.jpeg


7AA4C53D-42FE-4812-9B4E-A3AB325B109D.jpeg
 
Last edited:
1 lb. Harbor Freight rubber mallets.
I can’t take credit for this, someone else on this forum had done it and I just copied.
I cut the handles off, drilled all the way through with a 1/4” bit for the screw, then counter sunk down with a 3/8” bit to seat a washer and leave about 1/2” of screw sticking out. I reused the original torx screws, only because I couldn’t find decent length bolts with correct threading without driving 40+ miles.
Be careful when drilling down through as there is a nail passing across the center of the head holding the handle on and it will kick out.
For the very bottom snubber that is attached to the tub, a mallet was too long and put too much outward pressure against the gate latch. Two of the smaller gate snubbers (the tub snubber is slightly longer) screwed together with a couple torx framing screws were the perfect length for the bottom of the spare to rest against without putting any pressure against the gate latch.

EDIT: I can’t get pics to upload for some reason, so hopefully this explains alright.
Thank you the reply and details. I’ve heard of others doing this but have never actually seen how it looks until your pics. That’s looks like a factory upgrade. Will give it a try.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mushdogs
Got the US-made Revolution axle shafts installed in the front Dana 30 and rear Dana 44. Not a very sexy mod, costs a good chunk of change and the Jeep doesn’t do anything different, but it’s peace of mind when running 35’s on beadlocks.
Are you still running OEM Spicer joints in your nice chromo axles?
 
Realised I have probably murdered my battery in moronic fashion... left the cabin lights on for 9 days.
View attachment 105836
You didn't do it any favors, but it is a good agm, and a nice slow trickle charge may bring it back. I had one of those in my camping trailer and I would kill it dead and recharge it and kill it dead over and over and I always seemed to bring it back to life. I think in the end you will get less life, but I have brought mine back to life from less voltage before.

A trick if you are having trouble is if you have a older non-auto battery charger you may need to use that to kick the voltage high enough for the auto chargers to see it then change the charger to the new auto charger so it won't over charge it.

The older chargers will charge high amps forever and never stop, where the new ones will autoscale amperage till the point where it doesn't over charge then turns into a trickle charger. The con of the autocharger is that it needs a certain amount of voltage to start working.

I keep my old battery charger just for such occasions.

Btw I have that same battery in my 3/4 ton truck it is a good battery and when my yellow top aux battery fails it will get another one of these.
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: Kiwi TJ and Kris M
You didn't do it any favors, but it is a good agm, and a nice slow trickle charge may bring it back. I had one of those in my camping trailer and I would kill it dead and recharge it and kill it dead over and over and I always seemed to bring it back to life. I think in the end you will get less life, but I have brought mine back to life from less voltage before.

A trick if you are having trouble is if you have a older non-auto battery charger you may need to use that to kick the voltage high enough for the auto chargers to see it then change the charger to the new auto charger so it won't over charge it.

The older chargers will charge high amps forever and never stop, where the new ones will autoscale amperage till the point where it doesn't over charge then turns into a trickle charger. The con of the autocharger is that it needs a certain amount of voltage to start working.

I keep my old battery charger just for such occasions.

Btw I have that same battery in my 3/4 ton truck it is a good battery and when my yellow top aux battery fails it will get another one of these.
Appreciate the heads up, I will give this a try. Red that you can all link it in parallel with a live battery to get things started but I have a smart charger on order as I only have a conventional one at the moment.
 
Cut my rear frame out and installed my Poconos metalcraft replacement pieces today on both sides

Holy hell what a big job.

About 8 hours to do both sides. couple things I learned.

I don't think a wire welder was the best choice even though I tried to grind it down to clean metal because there was rust and pitting it just didn't weld as well. I went back over most of it with a stick welder and it did a better job welding.

Also because the replacement pieces when you install them the top of the replacement piece is about even with the top of the old frame. On the back side that leaves no room to get a welder in there to weld unless you lift the body off.

so on the second piece I cut about an inch off the back of the replacement piece so the welding seam would be a bit lower, even then I had trouble getting a welder up in there and could not do a complete or even a good-looking welding job. Not that my welding skills are the best but I got to say some pretty ugly welds of mine on this one

I used a plasma cutter to cut the frame trying to do a neater job than a grinder or sawzall. And it certainly went quicker.

Afterwards I use some Eastwood Green inside frame sealant treatment and ran the included hose up and down both sides of the frames.

on the outside I use Eastwood's rust converting rubberized undercoating to cover everything up real well. Now I just keep my fingers crossed.

Because I could not weld the back as completely as I would have liked I did consider of running a couple of grade 5 bolts right through the new replacement pieces and the old frame just to make sure it's good and tight and doesn't go anywhere. Probably Overkill and I haven't done that yet.
IMG_20190722_131215033.jpg
IMG_20190722_112449907.jpg


IMG_20190722_131232326.jpg



IMG_20190722_112449907.jpg
IMG_20190722_131215033.jpg
 
Last edited:
Attempted to remove the windshield bolts to install some quick disconnect mirrors...

2 came out easy with heat (food butane micro torch)

1 was already stripped and got more stripped
1 broke the bolt extractor in the 2nd stripped bolt.

Threw in the towel and will retackle another day.

 
Attempted to remove the windshield bolts to install some quick disconnect mirrors...

2 came out easy with heat (food butane micro torch)

1 was already stripped and got more stripped
1 broke the bolt extractor in the 2nd stripped bolt.

Threw in the towel and will retackle another day.


And you didn’t damage the paint with the extra heat you were applying in that one concentrated spot?
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ Starting