What did you do to your TJ today?

Just curious, where did you get that switch panel above your rearview mirror?
SPOD control panel with the main power distribution box mounted just above the battery. Pricey (I think there are less expensive options plus numerous DIY videos on YouTube now) but makes adding electronicals easy and clean (and after flying in the USAF for 20, I’ve come to enjoy illuminated switches). Also prevents (haven’t tested myself) running down the battery. So far I‘ve connected the a-pillar sideshooters and the ARB compressor. Next will be an led strip light mounted to the rear window to illuminate the Jeep’s back end when camping.
 
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Fixed a bad gasket on the thermostat and replaced my shocks with some Rancho RS5000x, what a world of difference. Waiting to put my new transfer case adjustable shifter till tomorrow night.
 
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Found this in the center section of my frame on the drivers side. Fortunately it’s only on the bottom side of the frame. You can feel smooth metal on the other 3 sides. Looks like Summer 2020 is going to involve some cutting/welding 😎🙃
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How's the outside look? I found a couple of those in mine on one side and everything is still going strong, for now...Did you look between the frame and transmission skid?
 
Time for an adventure!

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(don't cross your straps kids)
 
How's the outside look? I found a couple of those in mine on one side and everything is still going strong, for now...Did you look between the frame and transmission skid?

Outsides fine, still very solid when hitting it with a hammer/punch. And the area inside around the control arm mounts are still good. I lost a frame insert this year but the other 5 are still solid. I plan on cutting off the bottom side, addressing the areas and then welding it back up with new metal and outside plating if needed. Still easier than a frame swap so I cant complain too much 👍🏼
 
Found this in the center section of my frame on the drivers side. Fortunately it’s only on the bottom side of the frame. You can feel smooth metal on the other 3 sides. Looks like Summer 2020 is going to involve some cutting/welding 😎🙃
I bought my '98 in October of this (last) year and it was pretty rust free for an NC Jeep.
I drilled 1" drain holes at the 4 base points of the frame where all that crap settles (nice work Chrysler). Sprayed a bunch of OSPHO in every hole I could find, and then sprayed WD40 in there. Won't put undercoating, cause you can't see where the rust pops back up. EBAY has precut weld-on plates pretty cheap, my kid's TJ had them on when we bought it. Good Luck!
 
I bought my '98 in October of this (last) year and it was pretty rust free for an NC Jeep.
I drilled 1" drain holes at the 4 base points of the frame where all that crap settles (nice work Chrysler). Sprayed a bunch of OSPHO in every hole I could find, and then sprayed WD40 in there. Won't put undercoating, cause you can't see where the rust pops back up. EBAY has precut weld-on plates pretty cheap, my kid's TJ had them on when we bought it. Good Luck!
I popped 4 drain holes in about 6 months ago to start flushing the frame out. Unfortunately the flakes just got bigger and a little more concerning. It’ll be fine though, fortunate to find it now vs having something happen when I’m away from home.
 
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Got the lump assembled, went pretty good considering my CRS. Luckily AutoZone was open New Years Day and I was able to get the thread sealer I needed to install the head. Waiting on a waterpump and thermostat from moparonlineparts, they're closed between Christmas and New Years.
After the pic I did some cleaning and wire brushing of the block in preparation for paint..... I'm thinking Mopar blue.
 
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Hooked up the nit-picky transfer case stuff - vent, electrical, shift-linkage.

That shift linkage is an abomination - could they have built any more moving pieces into that sucker?
I replaced the driver's side torque box on my LJ last month. It requires that you loosen all 11 body bolts and remove the ones on the side you're working on plus the one at the front. You then lift the body on that side, slide in the torque box and weld it in place. I replaced the body mount rubber while I was at it.

For the above, basically the chassis, engine & transmission stay in place and the body gets tilted up 3"-4" on the chassis. My only concern was that the transfer case linkage wouldn't work when I was done. When I dropped the body down on the chassis the shifter worked great with no adjustments needed. Surprised me!

You're right … they're a pain in the butt. I plan to get a cable shifter.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I may definitely look into getting this done. I'm on 2" springs and an odd body lift. Will be doing an SYE before the Spring for sure and wanted to tuck things up underneath. Thanks for the quick response.


E
Correction 4" and no BL
 
Dropped off my half door shells at a buddy's house who is going to paint them for me to match the Light Khaki Metallic.

Started painting some of the little parts of the door panels with SEM adhesion promotor and Khaki paint. The six parts by themselves on a box are the original upper frame receptacles. The other ones are new Bestop ones that I bought, but the top surface is a little thinner, so I painted everything so I have backups. The plugs are just some that I picked up from ACE hardware.

Parts 1.JPG

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