What did you do to your TJ today?

Finally was able to get the jeep back together after breaking another Rubicon locker. Got a smoking deal on an Eaton Elocker from a buddy who is a magazine editor. Just had to take lots of pics. Didn't mount and wire switch as I am selling everything under my jeep to make way for the Wontons and new suspension. I just ran the wiring through the air line hole in housing(removed air fitting) and siliconed holes for now.

Garage has been held hostage for months...wife didn't waste anytime to start the honey do list hahah


Also had some time for more work on project #WontonyelLJ . Cleaned up rear axle. Found out the hard way the spindle nut on the drivers side is reverse thread 😂😂 didn't help that the ratcheting nut teeth were seized and broken. Came out in pieces. Next is sandblast then rear brake conversion kit

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today i have mostly finished the work on the window frame,
for me it was the first time that I had a windshield and frame renewed.
i think i made a mistake. I want to warn you about. the best way to have the outer windshield seal sealed would be to attach it to the windshield before gluing it on,
the seal is very rigid and difficult to assemble if the windshield is already installed.
I will stick the seal on the window frame so that it fits neatly on the frame


before


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after
 
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tworley said:
Is your skid plate welded to the frame?
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Yes, you noticed that. The PO did the frame repair kit and the holes wouldn't line up, so he welded it on one side. I ordered a Barns4wd.com replacement with elongated holes. That will be next weeks post, or the next, whenever it gets here. I got this jeep pretty cheap at $4700, so I knew some issues were waiting. So far I'm still ahead...for now.
 
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RHP61 said:
today i have mostly finished the work on the window frame,
for me it was the first time that I had a windshield and frame renewed.
i think i made a mistake. I want to warn you about. the best way to have the outer windshield seal sealed would be to attach it to the windshield before gluing it on,
the seal is very rigid and difficult to assemble if the windshield is already installed.
I will stick the seal on the window frame so that it fits neatly on the frame


before


View attachment 149580View attachment 149581View attachment 149582


after
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Is there a video or "how to" on this repair. Mine still looks like the BEFORE and I want the AFTER. :)
 
Bought this at the end of our Summer (cheap) $70...seeing as we are in lockdown thought I'd set it up on my front lawn...I like it, although its bigger and taller than I thought it would be. Folds away into a tiny bag which is plus.
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Midtenn said:
I purchased a grease gun and some red-n-tacky to conquer the fittings tomorrow morning. I am not sure if they've ever been greased.
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Knocked out all seven of the ones in the front this morning, no issues. As suspected, they've likely never been greased as they accepted quite a few pumps. I am probably a little on the low side as I know some you are supposed to grease until it comes out of the boot and others you are to be more careful.

Any thoughts on how to get to the ones on the rear driveshaft u-joints? Is it a special coupling? It looked like a standard zerk, just covered by the joint ends.
 
BoldlyGoing said:
Swapped in to summer mode- bikini top and wind jammer, pulled out the rear seat and carpet.

need to make some sort of supplemental bow to keep the water from pooling in the bikini top this summer. That's always a pain.

Also new spark plugs, oil change, and filters. Ready for the nice weather Coronavirus be damned.
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can you share a pic? i'm looking at options for my lj and trying to decide
 
Is $2,500 a fair price for a gear swap? I'm going from 3.07 to 4.88s so I need new carriers. I want to go with TrueTrac in the rear and open in the front. He's also going to r/r the axle seals and bearings.
 
Midtenn said:
Knocked out all seven of the ones in the front this morning, no issues. As suspected, they've likely never been greased as they accepted quite a few pumps. I am probably a little on the low side as I know some you are supposed to grease until it comes out of the boot and others you are to be more careful.

Any thoughts on how to get to the ones on the rear driveshaft u-joints? Is it a special coupling? It looked like a standard zerk, just covered by the joint ends.
Click to expand...
Removing the driveshaft makes it very easy.
 
Midtenn said:
Is $2,500 a fair price for a gear swap? I'm going from 3.07 to 4.88s so I need new carriers. I want to go with TrueTrac in the rear and open in the front. He's also going to r/r the axle seals and bearings.
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My re-gear guys cuts me a deal if I bring him the axle housings out of the Jeep.

Your quote doesnt seem that off from what most folks around here pay.

Do you have an itemized invoice?
 
Midtenn said:
Is $2,500 a fair price for a gear swap? I'm going from 3.07 to 4.88s so I need new carriers. I want to go with TrueTrac in the rear and open in the front. He's also going to r/r the axle seals and bearings.
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I'm in the same process right now. With me supplying all the parts I was quoted 600 for the install.
 
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Fouledplugs said:
My re-gear guys cuts me a deal if I bring him the axle housings out of the Jeep.

Your quote doesnt seem that off from what most folks around here pay.

Do you have an itemized invoice?
Click to expand...

Local 4x4 shop has a re-gear "special" for $1,450. That price doesn't cover the new carriers I would need.

So:

$1,450 for gears/installation labor (Yukon gears/Timken Bearings)
$150 for the front open carrier
$125 for rear axle seals
$500 for rear truetrac

and then taxes.

He said there was no real difference in installing gears in an open carrier and a truetrac.

Based my estimates, ~$500 of this is labor which is probably fair.
 
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