What did you do to your TJ today?

Installed a new Bestop Spice Sailcloth Replace a Top with tinted windows.

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Started working on the 1.25" Savvy Body lift today. I was able to remove and loosen eight out of eleven of the body mounts bolts and pucks. The ones directly in front of the rear wheels are pretty tight and I can only turn them about 5 degrees tightening and loosening with lots of Kroil. Also the one under the grill is the same. I am going to keep spraying them and tightening and loosening them hoping that they will break loose.
 
I changed my transmission pan gasket... for the 3rd time. 32rh, leaked ever since I changed the fluid/filter/gasket a while back. I suspected the leak may have been from difficulty tightening the rear pan bolts because of the skid pan being in my way.

I changed the gasket a second time, dropping the skid plate first and adding some permatex gasket sealant. I was able to tighten all the bolts nice and evenly, however I didn't have a small enough torque wrench to shoot for 150 in-lbs. So I ballparked it. And it still leaked. Badly. After a couple weeks, this built up on my floor.

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So today, I dropped the skid plate, removed the pan, and tried to identify a real solution. The paint on the pan mating surface had been worn away in some areas. I scraped it with a razor blade to smooth it out before, but it didn't seem to do a great job. I figured maybe that was preventing a good seal. So I hit it with 220 and 440 sandpaper to make a nice smooth surface, before and after shown below.

Pan Removal
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Pan Mating Surface with worn paint on mating surface. I had begun sanding here on the right edge
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Pan after sanding mating surface
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Then I directed my attention on the mating surface of the 32rh. It also had some unidentified gunk built up on it. I had scraped it the best I could with a razor blade to remove stuff before but it wasn't extremely effective. I decided to hit it with a small brass brush and some gentle cross strokes with 440 grit paper. Some befores and afters below.

Before. Virtually every bolt hole looked similar to this.
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During/After cleaning
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Got the pan ready to go back in with more gasket sealant
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And to top things off, I got a proper 1/4" torque wrench to make sure I torque things down properly. I was probably not tightening it enough if anything, based off what I felt today. I was being overly cautious about the aluminum threads.
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I drove it around a bit and it hasn't leaked but it's only been a couple hours. Time will tell. I am pretty optimistic about it this time though. We shall see.
 
Not me, but my kid changed his 2.5 exhaust manifold, when he got the new one on, super high RPM's. We checked all the vacuum lines and no cracks.
A quick search here came up w/ the problem and the solution.
Thanks again guys! :)
 
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I need to do the same thing...
What/how did you go about getting yours off..???
A lot of patience, more than a few hours to dedicate to it, and a handful of plastic razor blades. Goo Gone to clean up the small stuff that the plastic razor blades will not cut loose. (Mainly glue/adhesive) the heat gun softened it up maybe a little, but you dont have to have one to get the job done

I’m confident that either the clear isnt that deep or there is no clear at all on the inside door sill; there is an area that the factory clear sill protector folds towards the inside of the tub about an inch wide. That area while painted, doesnt appear to have much clear protecting it. However, the part of the sill you can see can take a plastic razor blade on it all day.

I dont advocate intentionally try to dig it in.

I would also suggest adding a sill protector immediately after getting the clear one off. Something like a rugged ridge one. Something plastic and more robust, able to hide the scuffs and dirt.
 
A lot of patience, more than a few hours to dedicate to it, and a handful of plastic razor blades. Goo Gone to clean up the small stuff that the plastic razor blades will not cut loose. (Mainly glue/adhesive) the heat gun softened it up maybe a little, but you dont have to have one to get the job done

I’m confident that either the clear isnt that deep or there is no clear at all on the inside door sill; there is an area that the factory clear sill protector folds towards the inside of the tub about an inch wide. That area while painted, doesnt appear to have much clear protecting it. However, the part of the sill you can see can take a plastic razor blade on it all day.

I dont advocate intentionally try to dig it in.

I would also suggest adding a sill protector immediately after getting the clear one off. Something like a rugged ridge one. Something plastic and more robust, able to hide the scuffs and dirt.


I used a heat gun and my fingernails and mine came off in about 10 minutes