What else do I need with this lift?

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Christian Willcockson

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Springfield mo
I am getting a good size lift kit in the summer here in a few months. I am curious of what all I will need to be getting for me to get it all done and over with soon as I start the buying process. I am considering a Rubicon Express 5.5" Tri-Link Long Arm Suspension System from Quadratec. It says I will be receiving all of these components:

GEN2 DISCONNECTS
SWAY BAR END LINKS REAR
COIL SPRINGS FRONT
COIL SPRINGS REAR/PAIR
BUMPSTOPS FRONT
BUMPSTOPS REAR
BRAKE LINE REAR SS
BRAKE LINE SET SS FRONT
TRACK BAR FRONT EXTREME-DUTY
TRACK BAR DROP BRACKET FRONT
SHOCK MOUNTS WELD-ON
PITMAN ARM
X-DUTY CONTROL ARM FT LWR LEFT
X-DUTY CONTROL ARM FT LWR RGHT
EXTREME-DUTY CONTROL ARM FT UP
EXT-DUTY REAR LOWER ARMS
TRI-LINK REAR UPPER ARMS
EXT-DUTY CROSSMEMBER
TRI-LINK REAR TRUSS KIT

Will there be anything thing else I will need to buy other than this kit to make it a full off road capable but yet still driven on the road 75 percent of the time? Thank you in advance and hope this all made sense!

P.S. I believe it is all stock other than the tires. I am new to the jeep community and I like the redneck look and capability of an off road vehicle.
 
Wow, that's a huge lift, way more than most of us run!

What comes to mind immediately is that you'll most certainly need a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) and a DC (double cardan) driveshaft. You'll also have to relocate your rear spring perches.
 
What size tires are you planning on running? You will need to regear front and rear. And depending on tire size you may need to beef up the axle internals and possibly truss. You mentioned off road capability and driving street a majority of the time, are you considering air/electric lockers? Going either way will give you great road manners yet great off road capability.

Big tires? Automatic Transmission? Might want to research a Trans cooler.

Like @Chris mentioned a SYE will have to be on your list of additionals. I would look into the super short SYE since you are going with such a big lift. Doing so will give you the longest driveshaft possible, thus lowering chances of driveline vibrations.


@Christian Willcockson Why go with a 5.5 inch lift? Just curious as to what type of trails you are going to ride and where you want to take it.
 
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I am planning to run 35"-39" if I can. I want to get the metal cloak arched fender flare so I can have the room I need to afford them. My intentions are to make it capable to drive a few hundred miles to a camping spot or off-road area without having to haul it, I go to the lake and the woods often and soon possibly (in the next decade) moving to the Caribbean. I am trying to put all those factors in to it because I would rather buy something now rather than later down the road for replacing. I have an 2003 manual 5 speed. I want such a big lift because I fall into my jeep now and I like bigger and taller.
 
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Well, with 39” tires you’d need some much strong axles (full width), the right gears, a new steering setup, and a new engine if you want to get any power out of it, haha.

35” tires would require as much, but 39” tires are obviously a whole different story.
 
Currie/Savvy 4". Stick with short arms and 35's. This assumes that you have a Dana 44 rear. If you have the Dana 35, then your limit is 33's with open diffs. Unless you add a Super35 kit. There are no stock axles that work well with 37+. Too narrow, too weak.
 
So as to falling in, I'm 6ft5 with 37s, a 3.5" lift and a 1.25" body lift. it's still a good hop to get in and a hell of a high kick to get the right leg in. You may be underestimateing how much higher your jeep will be. A suggestion is put the jeep on a hoist at the garage and ask them to lift it up 10" in the air for you. This will give you an idea of how high your jeep will be with 35s and that lift. It's a pain for dd usage, also if you are considering Metalcloak fenders keep in mind a normal lift hight to for 35s is about 2-3". For off road preformance reasons a 2" lift with a 1.25" body lift will let you run a tummy tuck, give you enough room for your tires and an extra 4 or 5" of ground clearance without the tires.

You will still need to regear for whatever size tire you pick, also beefing up the axles is a must. If you plan on lockers then a Dana 30 front and particularly the 35 rear arn't a great idea. That also hugely depends on where you live, here in Ontario a jk axle with 5.38 gears is considered just fine, in Hawaii where I just was they won't touch those gears as they blow up all the time, it just depends on train.

You will always need drive shafts no matter what you do.

Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk
 
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