What have you 3D printed for your TJ?

[sab]

I want a 3D scanner so badly because I need to design/fab a support system for my new air intake. A scanner would be amazingly beneficial so I could go into CAD and then use Send-Cut-Send.

I bought a 3DMakerPro Moose scanner a few months ago, so I have some feedback for you. The reason I bought it was that I have in mind a skid plate made from AR400 or AR500 steel for my Dana 44 pumpkins, a la Currie's Dana 60 skid. It would mount to the "snout" and then wrap around the bottom, with mounting bosses welded to the cover. I wanted a 3D model of the cover for that.

The software for the Moose is very quirky and cumbersome, but I did get it to work. It's supposed to be capable of freehand scanning, but I couldn't get that to work, so I made a lazy susan to spin it on, and that worked. I had to do it on a workstation at the office because my laptop at home doesn't have a fancy enough graphics card. The biggest problem is the point cloud you get is huge, and the free version of Fusion doesn't allow you to simplify the mesh, so it's very dense and hard to work with. AutoDesk had a 50% off on Fusion subscription in early September, but I missed out on it. I'm hoping they do it again for Black Friday because I really need to simply the mesh. Oh, and I do need a new laptop. J.E.E.P.!

Anyway, here's a screenshot of the Dana 44 cover mesh in Fusion:

You can see how dense the point cloud is. In fact, if I zoomed out enough to see the entire thing, it's just a black blob. I know I can adjust the scanning resolution some, but I really just did that scan as a proof-of-concept back in July and haven't gotten back on that, yet.

 

[chili_pepper]

AR500 steel for my Dana 44 pumpkins

Well, you won't be lying if you tell someone your Dana 44's are bulletproof...

3DMakerPro Moose scanner

It's supposed to be capable of freehand scanning, but I couldn't get that to work, so I made a lazy susan to spin it on, and that worked.

The price tag on that one is well doable and the 1500mm max object size would probably work, but the lack of ability to do freehand scanning probably wouldn't for a number of projects I have in mind. It does give me hope that, likely sooner than later, there may be a scanner that would suit my needs for a price I can stomach.

EDIT: Just poked around on the 3DMakerPro website and noticed their Lynx unit, which would be perfect for my application...so tempting...

 

[sab]

...the lack of ability to do freehand scanning probably wouldn't for a number of projects I have in mind.

It's supposed to do it, and I really didn't give it much of a chance, so assume that a clumsy, impatient knucklehead like me screwed it up...

 

[chili_pepper]

a clumsy, impatient knucklehead

Have we met?

 

[FarFire70]

I bought a 3DMakerPro Moose scanner a few months ago, so I have some feedback for you. The reason I bought it was that I have in mind a skid plate made from AR400 or AR500 steel for my Dana 44 pumpkins, a la Currie's Dana 60 skid. It would mount to the "snout" and then wrap around the bottom, with mounting bosses welded to the cover. I wanted a 3D model of the cover for that.

The software for the Moose is very quirky and cumbersome, but I did get it to work. It's supposed to be capable of freehand scanning, but I couldn't get that to work, so I made a lazy susan to spin it on, and that worked. I had to do it on a workstation at the office because my laptop at home doesn't have a fancy enough graphics card. The biggest problem is the point cloud you get is huge, and the free version of Fusion doesn't allow you to simplify the mesh, so it's very dense and hard to work with. AutoDesk had a 50% off on Fusion subscription in early September, but I missed out on it. I'm hoping they do it again for Black Friday because I really need to simply the mesh. Oh, and I do need a new laptop. J.E.E.P.!

Anyway, here's a screenshot of the Dana 44 cover mesh in Fusion:
View attachment 568159

You can see how dense the point cloud is. In fact, if I zoomed out enough to see the entire thing, it's just a black blob. I know I can adjust the scanning resolution some, but I really just did that scan as a proof-of-concept back in July and haven't gotten back on that, yet.

Thanks for the recommendation. Concerns on the freehand issues but I can look into those further. My applications would usually be on freehand under the hood or body so that would be a big feature to me.

I'm still just starting to get involved in the 3D scan, 3D design, Send-cut-Send - design approach. Holding off on heavy buys of scanners but keeping my eye on the market I appreciate your feedback and pros/cons of the 3DMakerPro Moose scanner.

 

[Apparition]

Pulled the trigger on the X1C with two AMS’s today. Looking forward to making something.

 

[rasband]

Pulled the trigger on the X1C with two AMS’s today. Looking forward to making something.

Grab one of these too, for when you want to port in something that isn't AMS compatible. Oh, and print the ams detach tool first thing.

 

[Apparition]

Grab one of these too, for when you want to port in something that isn't AMS compatible. Oh, and print the ams detach tool first thing.

View attachment 569098

Will do.

 

[chili_pepper]

Will do.

You could also just print a splitter, though I would still print the detach tool in case you need to remove lines for maintenance, etc. I run single spools from a stand-alone filament heater dryer or multiple from the AMS with this....

 

[Apparition]

You could also just print a splitter, though I would still print the detach tool in case you need to remove lines for maintenance, etc. I run single spools from a stand-alone filament heater dryer or multiple from the AMS with this....

View attachment 569115

Which dryer do you have?

 

[chili_pepper]

Which dryer do you have?

A fairly inexpensive one. Mainly use it for single spools that aren't AMS compatible, either due to the filament itself or the spool (or both, I suppose). Only goes up to 55 Celsius. I started using this with my P1S, it works well enough for keeping things dry during longer prints.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N6QV2T1?tag=wranglerorg-20

This one, released recently, will allegedly go up to 70 and holds up to four spools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQJMV71Z?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Apparition]

A fairly inexpensive one. Mainly use it for single spools that aren't AMS compatible, either due to the filament itself or the spool (or both, I suppose). Only goes up to 55 Celsius. I started using this with my P1S, it works well enough for keeping things dry during longer prints.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N6QV2T1?tag=wranglerorg-20

This one, released recently, will allegedly go up to 70 and holds up to four spools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQJMV71Z?tag=wranglerorg-20

The second one is the one I was looking at but not sure if I’d be able to utilize the 4 spool model vs a smaller one.

 

[chili_pepper]

The second one is the one I was looking at but not sure if I’d be able to utilize the 4 spool model vs a smaller one.

Same thinking here. Not exactly small, either. My main interest in the larger unit would be the 70C max temp.

 

[Apparition]

Same thinking here. Not exactly small, either. My main interest in the larger unit would be the 70C max temp.

Here's the other option, I was looking at

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM97WX1D?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Steel City 06]

Can the roll just fit inside the heated chamber? As long as you keep your chamber temp set high enough, it will keep the filament dry. Even better if you just leave it continuously heating between prints

 

[chili_pepper]

Can the roll just fit inside the heated chamber? As long as you keep your chamber temp set high enough, it will keep the filament dry. Even better if you just leave it continuously heating between prints

The spools do fit inside the machine and the build plate can be used to heat/dry spools of filament (Bambu even suggests this), but not while printing. Using the printer chamber for longer term storage and drying won't do your electric bill any favors, and will likely reduce the service life of some printer components (if not the printer itself). That said, if you're running a 350w dryer box constantly, that probably wouldn't be much better.

I store my spools in zip loc freezer bags with a dessicant pack inside (typically the one that came with the spool). I squeeze as much air out as possible, zip them up and stash them in 20mm ammo cans with some additonal dessicant packs in the can for the hell of it. Some might say not enough, some might say overkill. I already had the gear, it's relatively easy and I've never had print issues relating to hygroscopy. I also don't let any filament sit out exposed for any length of time, I see no reason to tempt fate.

If you live on the Gulf coast, your requirments will probably be different from someone living in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Not sure where he's located geographically offhand, but SuperfastMatt seems to have a pretty basic storage system that works, looks like plastic cereal containers and loose dessicant.

 

[chili_pepper]

Here's the other option, I was looking at

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM97WX1D?tag=wranglerorg-20

Looks like it can hit 70 degrees Celsius as well, might we worth a look.

 

[Apparition]

The spools do fit inside the machine and the build plate can be used to heat/dry spools of filament (Bambu even suggests this), but not while printing. Using the printer chamber for longer term storage and drying won't do your electric bill any favors, and will likely reduce the service life of some printer components (if not the printer itself). That said, if you're running a 350w dryer box constantly, that probably wouldn't be much better.

I store my spools in zip loc freezer bags with a dessicant pack inside (typically the one that came with the spool). I squeeze as much air out as possible, zip them up and stash them in 20mm ammo cans with some additonal dessicant packs in the can for the hell of it. Some might say not enough, some might say overkill. I already had the gear, it's relatively easy and I've never had print issues relating to hygroscopy. I also don't let any filament sit out exposed for any length of time, I see no reason to tempt fate.

If you live on the Gulf coast, your requirments will probably be different from someone living in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Not sure where he's located geographically offhand, but SuperfastMatt seems to have a pretty basic storage system that works, looks like plastic cereal containers and loose dessicant.

I've never worried about my other printer or the rolls, they all sit open air and I'm mostly concerned with the engineering materials. I'm not that concerned if the kids are making articulated lizards.

I figure I'll use desiccant granules in the AMS's and recharge them as needed in the oven. I ordered 17 rolls of filament with the printer so any extras I may keep in a rubber tub with desiccant granules in it.

My license plate holder I made for the jeep was made out of PLA and is cracked but still holding up after several months of sitting outside in the sun including wheeling Moab's 100° days and wintering in a storage unit at negative temps. I'll be replacing it with something better.

 

[Steel City 06]

The spools do fit inside the machine and the build plate can be used to heat/dry spools of filament (Bambu even suggests this), but not while printing. Using the printer chamber for longer term storage and drying won't do your electric bill any favors, and will likely reduce the service life of some printer components (if not the printer itself). That said, if you're running a 350w dryer box constantly, that probably wouldn't be much better.

I store my spools in zip loc freezer bags with a dessicant pack inside (typically the one that came with the spool). I squeeze as much air out as possible, zip them up and stash them in 20mm ammo cans with some additonal dessicant packs in the can for the hell of it. Some might say not enough, some might say overkill. I already had the gear, it's relatively easy and I've never had print issues relating to hygroscopy. I also don't let any filament sit out exposed for any length of time, I see no reason to tempt fate.

If you live on the Gulf coast, your requirments will probably be different from someone living in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Not sure where he's located geographically offhand, but SuperfastMatt seems to have a pretty basic storage system that works, looks like plastic cereal containers and loose dessicant.

I agree that I wouldn't heat a chamber constantly for storage purposes. I store them in an airtight container with desiccant, and if I need to dry them due to inadvertent open-air storage, just stick the rolls in a toaster oven on the convection setting for a few hours. However, having the roll in the chamber during the print does a very good job at keeping the filament dry.

Pretty much all of the printers I've built or work with have the spool holder and feed inside the heated chamber, so the spool is always kept warm as it prints. Not hot enough to dry it completely from an open-air storage state, but still hot enough to prevent it from absorbing moisture during a print. For example, the drying temperature of my normal filament is listed as 120°C for four hours. My chamber is generally only 80°C, but that seems to keep it dry indefinitely.

 

[Rubiconned]