What is a Locking Differential? Lockers Explained

Chris

Administrator
Staff Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Sep 28, 2015
Messages
71,020
Location
Florence, AZ
Got Traction?
In the sport of off-roading almost inevitably the conversation turns to improving performance. When off-road an important keyword is traction. Better traction generally boils down to four components, your tires. Quality tires designed for off-road make a world of difference in your ability to find traction and have fun. But if a tire is not turning due to a lack of power being sent to that tire, the best tires in the world won't help you. That's where the right differential makes a difference. This article will attempt to explain what role your differential plays in traction and the different types of differentials available on the market and how they will affect your vehicle's traction and handling characteristics.


The Differential
The differential in a vehicle is located in what is sometimes called the "pumpkin", or that center section of the front or rear axle that intersects with the drive shaft. Within that center part of the axle is contained the differential.

In a vehicle, the differential usually consisting of a set of gears, that allows each of the driving wheels to rotate. The gears convert the rotating motion of the driveshaft or drive train and split power to each of the driving axle shafts of that axle. In 4 wheel drive vehicles there are two differentials, one in the rear axle and one in the front axle.

The differential has three jobs. It directs engine power to the wheels. It acts as the final gear reduction in the vehicle, slowing the rotational speed of the transmission (and transfer case of 4 wheel drive vehicles) before it hits the wheels. The differential also transmits the power to the wheels while allowing them to rotate at different speeds, thus the term "differential".

The main purpose of the differential is to allow each half of the axle (each tire) to spin at different speeds, while supplying an equal amount of force to each wheel in that axle. The need for the wheels to rotate at different speeds is especially apparent when turning corners. When cornering the inner wheel travels a shorter distance than the outer wheel. With an open differential they both propel the vehicle forward with equal force, so long as both wheels remain in contact with the road and have traction. However if one wheel slips, for instance on ice, more torque is sent to the wheel that spins. If that slipping wheel completely looses traction, all power will be sent to that wheel and you have no forward momentum. When offroad, this is where the common open differential fails to remain effective. When offroad there are many situations where a wheel will spin free. In most stock 4x4 vehicles the common Open Differential can be found in both the front and rear axles. When a wheel in the front AND a wheel in the back are allowed to spin free due to the Open Differentials, that 4x4 is essentially a 2 wheel drive vehicle. One front wheel, and one back wheel. This is where other types of differentials will make drastic improvements to traction.


Types of Differentials
Differentials can be generally classified into 4 categories. Open Differentials, Limited Slip Differentials, Locking Differentials and Spools. Spools are really just the elimination of the differential, so really, there are three categories.

Beyond the open differential, the various types of "non-open" differentials will provide varying degrees of limiting of the spin or slip of an open differential. What also varies is the feel of these differentials, which translates into varying degrees of handling characteristics on road and offroad.


Open / Standard Carrier Differential
The standard differential, or what is referred to as an open carrier, is what comes with most OEM vehicles. The open carrier holds the ring gear in place and within the open carrier is generally a set of gears called spider gears. These spider gears are responsible for allowing a vehicle to negotiate a turn and allow the outside wheel to travel farther and turn faster than the inside wheel. This type of open design works great for most of vehicles on the road today. However when a vehicle with an open differential meets a lack of traction, it directs power to the wheel with the least amount of resistance. The result is the wheel on the traction-less surface spins free, while the opposite wheel of that axle on the better traction surface provides little or no power.


Limited Slip Differentials, Posi-Traction (Posi, Posis)
Limited Slip and positraction (posi) differentials are designed to "limit" the tendency of open differential to send power to a wheel that lacks traction and redirect the power to a degree to the other wheel of the axle. The Limited Slip and Positraction differential will send power to both wheels equally when traveling straight, however when one wheel spins due to a lack of traction, the differential will automatically provide torque to the other wheel with traction. Limited Slip and Positraction (posi) differentials limit the loss of torque to a slipping wheel through various mechanisms such as clutches, gears cones, and other methods dependent on the unit. The limited slip and positraction will not provide 100% lock up of the differential in extreme situations such as when a wheel completely looses traction. Limited Slip and Positraction (posi) differentials are recommended for daily driven vehicles and are used in many applications where traction is sometimes needed as in emergency vehicles. They are also ideal for front axles of 4x4 vehicles that are not equipped with front hubs that can be disengaged. The term "positraction" ("posi" for short) was used by General Motors years ago for their limited slip differential and has been used to refer to limited slips since.

Lockers (Locking Differentials)
A locking differential or "Locker" uses a mechanism that allows left and right wheels to "lock" relative to each other and turn at the same speed regardless of which axle has traction and regardless of how little traction a slipping wheel has. In this state, the axle acts more as a "Spool". This means traction can be sent to a wheel that may be planted firmly on the ground while the other wheel of the axle is completely off the ground. In this situation an open differential will spin the free (lifted) wheel sending absolutely no torque to the wheel in the ground. A limited slip in this situation will send some torque to the wheel on the ground but possibly no enough to provide any forward momentum.

Lockers use various mechanisms to provide lock-up and can be divided into two categories, Automatic Lockers and On-Command, or selectable Lockers.
Automatic Lockers
Automatic locking differentials are designed to lock both wheels of an axle automatically when torque is applied so that both wheels are providing power. When torque is not being applied such as when the clutch is press down, the differential is allowed to unlock, permitting a variance in wheel speed while negotiating turns. Automatic lockers tend to create odd handling characteristics on the street as they lock and unlock and take some getting used to.​
Here are a few examples of automatic lockers:​
On-Command Lockers (Selectable, Manually Operated):
On-command lockers are the best of both worlds providing the benefits of a locking differential and an open differential. An on-command locker uses a switch activated electric motor or vacuum diaphragm or a cable / lever to engage the locker. When an on-command locker is not engaged, it acts like a standard open differential with none of the quirky handling characteristics of an automatic locker. When the on-command locker is engaged, the differential locks the axle shafts together where it is now more like a spool with no differential of speed between the wheels of that axle. Some OEM on-command locker designs are available on the market including 1998 and newer Toyota Tacoma and Land Cruiser and the Jeep Wrangler Rubicons.​
Here are a few examples of on-command, selectable lockers:​
  • Auburn Gear Electronic Locker ECTED
  • ARB Air Locker
  • Ox Locker
  • Eaton E-Locker
Spools, Mini Spools
Spools are actually the lack of a differential. Spools are a 100% lock-up between both wheels of an axle all the time. Spools are generally used for racing and serious offroad use where little or no street driving is seen by the vehicle and a stronger, lighter rear end is needed. Needless to say, I don't think you'll ever see a spool on a Jeep Wrangler.


Here's a great video that explains all about lockers

 
Awesome writeup, @Chris .

I'm reading up on this topic because I'm seriously considering a re-gear and I realize that doing lockers at the same time makes sense. I have a stock 30/44 combo with 31s and am interested in being able to do moderate wheeling (no sustained crawling). I'm leaning toward either selectable electric Eaton or cable OX for both front and rear (not considering an LSD because I'd be driving in snow/ice).

One thing I couldn't find in the writeup is when you need to upgrade axles. Based on what I've found so far, if I stick with 31s, the 44's axles should be OK? For the 30, would I need to upgrade axles with a selectable locker?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Awesome writeup, @Chris .

I'm reading up on this topic because I'm seriously considering a re-gear and I realize that doing lockers at the same time makes sense. I have a stock 30/44 combo with 31s and am interested in being able to do moderate wheeling (no sustained crawling). I'm leaning toward either selectable electric Eaton or cable OX for both front and rear (not considering an LSD because I'd be driving in snow/ice).

One thing I couldn't find in the writeup is when you need to upgrade axles. Based on what I've found so far, if I stick with 31s, the 44's axles should be OK? For the 30, would I need to upgrade axles with a selectable locker?

Yes, you'd be stupid not to do a locker at the same time, since it would cost you double if you decided to add a locker later down the line.

I personally would go with a selectable locker such as ARB or Eaton.

The stock Dana 44 axles will be just fine for 31s. You wouldn't need to upgrade the axle shafts unless you went with a locker with more splines, but being as though the Dana 30 has 30 spline inners, you would be just fine sticking with 30 splines on the new locker.
 
Thanks for the quick response. It sounds like I wouldn’t need beefier ujoints either?

Do you think that doing selectable lockers on both axles is overkill for moderate wheeling? In a perfect world I could drive a vehicle set up that way before I decide. From what I have read, if I did one selectable locker, it looks like doing the rear makes the most sense? Any drawbacks with that scenario?
 
Thanks for the quick response. It sounds like I wouldn’t need beefier ujoints either?

Do you think that doing selectable lockers on both axles is overkill for moderate wheeling? In a perfect world I could drive a vehicle set up that way before I decide. From what I have read, if I did one selectable locker, it looks like doing the rear makes the most sense? Any drawbacks with that scenario?

The stock u-joints are fine for 31s.

If you have to only choose one locker, you always want a rear locker first. Do you need a front locker? No, not if you're only doing moderate wheeling. However, it will be nice if you ever do need it, and for maybe $800 or so more, you get that front locker, which is worth it IMHO, even if you hardly ever use it.
 
@Chris , I'm trying to determine exactly what I have in order to shop lockers. In a post above, you said that the Dana 30 has 30 splines, but I've read elsewhere that they can also have 27. How can I determine what I have?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
@Chris , I'm trying to determine exactly what I have in order to shop lockers. In a post above, you said that the Dana 30 has 30 splines, but I've read elsewhere that they can also have 27. How can I determine what I have?

That is a typo then. A Dana 30 has 27 spline inners and outers. What most do is upgrade the gears and locker at the same time, and go with a 30 spline locker and new 30 spline axle shafts. Then you’ll have 30 spline inners and 27 spline outlets, which will handle up to 35s just fine.
 
Awesome writeup, @Chris .

I'm reading up on this topic because I'm seriously considering a re-gear and I realize that doing lockers at the same time makes sense. I have a stock 30/44 combo with 31s and am interested in being able to do moderate wheeling (no sustained crawling). I'm leaning toward either selectable electric Eaton or cable OX for both front and rear (not considering an LSD because I'd be driving in snow/ice).

One thing I couldn't find in the writeup is when you need to upgrade axles. Based on what I've found so far, if I stick with 31s, the 44's axles should be OK? For the 30, would I need to upgrade axles with a selectable locker?

I was where you were several months ago in the decision making process. I had already decided to re-gear from 3.73 to 4.56 with 33" tires, 5 speed manual, 4.0 TJ. Asked many questions, did plenty of research and an honest assessment of how I would be using this vehicle off road. I've owned a 1973 International Scout ll and a 1995 Cherokee XJ, both 4WD, so I had an idea of what I wanted. I settled on a Detroit Tru Trac LSD in the rear and kept the front an open diff. This was done during the re-gearing. I considered a selectable locker but could not justify one as I never needed one in any of my previous vehicles which I took on many off road adventures and never got stuck. I'm not rock crawling or into the extreme but like to get to out of the way camping, fishing, hunting and exploring in the northeast. Do an honest assessment of how you will be using YOUR vehicle and go from there. Hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blondie70
That is a typo then. A Dana 30 has 27 spline inners and outers. What most do is upgrade the gears and locker at the same time, and go with a 30 spline locker and new 30 spline axle shafts. Then you’ll have 30 spline inners and 27 spline outlets, which will handle up to 35s just fine.
OK, understood. So if I'm planning on staying with 31s, then I could keep the stock 27 spline axle shafts?
 
Last edited:
I thought most with the Dana 30 kept the 27 spline shafts even after the locker and 35s.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EzPeezy
I was where you were several months ago in the decision making process. I had already decided to re-gear from 3.73 to 4.56 with 33" tires, 5 speed manual, 4.0 TJ. Asked many questions, did plenty of research and an honest assessment of how I would be using this vehicle off road. I've owned a 1973 International Scout ll and a 1995 Cherokee XJ, both 4WD, so I had an idea of what I wanted. I settled on a Detroit Tru Trac LSD in the rear and kept the front an open diff. This was done during the re-gearing. I considered a selectable locker but could not justify one as I never needed one in any of my previous vehicles which I took on many off road adventures and never got stuck. I'm not rock crawling or into the extreme but like to get to out of the way camping, fishing, hunting and exploring in the northeast. Do an honest assessment of how you will be using YOUR vehicle and go from there. Hope this helps.
That is very helpful, thanks. Have you encountered a situation where a rear wheel is up in the air (making the LSD less effective without using braking techniques)?
 
That is very helpful, thanks. Have you encountered a situation where a rear wheel is up in the air (making the LSD less effective without using braking techniques)?

The LSD may as well be an open diff the moment a tire lifts off the ground.
 
OK, understood. So if I'm planning on staying with 31s, then I could keep the stock 27 spline axle shafts?

Correct, but if you’re planning on installing a locker, it makes no sense to stay with 27 splines, even though you would only be running 31s.