From what I can gather, Carl Jantz has a sold reputation in the 4X4 community. I don't know if I would go so far as to say it is 100% BS.
He's somewhat prominent and maybe most known for the Jana 44. That's about it.
From what I can gather, Carl Jantz has a sold reputation in the 4X4 community. I don't know if I would go so far as to say it is 100% BS.
From what I can gather, Carl Jantz has a solid reputation in the 4X4 community. I don't know if I would go so far as to compare what he says to someone else and their u-joint video.
And to be clear, I am not arguing with anything you guys are telling me, I am just asking the questions I have and exploring the options. Like I said before, I am a rookie in this area. But each time I have brought this topic up, I get a different expert opinion, and a lot of them differ drastically from each other.
To answer a question about why I am considering looking to change what TJ engineers have created, well just because I am going to make changes to the Jeep that differs from what the engineers were creating. I plan to put about 3"-4" lift and 35" tires on the Jeep. This is mild by some peoples build, but far from a stock street only wrangler. So I am just looking around to see what works and what does not. I do have a mild case of death wobble right now with a mostly stock 2006 TJ and 45,000 miles. I put a 1.5" puck lift on the stock Rubicon and the tires are currently 265/65/16. Just that little bit of a change has already caused problems with the death wobble resistant Haltengerger design. So I started looking at fixes.
He's somewhat prominent and maybe most known for the Jana 44. That's about it.
You mean this one?
He's somewhat prominent and maybe most known for the Jana 44. That's about it.
If the presentation is based upon a flawed premise, then the presentation is itself flawed. They are both the same level of flawed since they make presumptions not in evidence.From what I can gather, Carl Jantz has a solid reputation in the 4X4 community. I don't know if I would go so far as to compare what he says to someone else and their u-joint video.
That is due to what you see in the two videos. Each is based on a flawed premise yet presented very authoritatively. That means each has a reason to base their beliefs on to develop that opinion, yet each is highly flawed.And to be clear, I am not arguing with anything you guys are telling me, I am just asking the questions I have and exploring the options. Like I said before, I am a rookie in this area. But each time I have brought this topic up, I get a different expert opinion, and a lot of them differ drastically from each other.
Learn how to do the steering tests to diagnose faulty, worn, or substandard parts and replace as needed. No need to reinvent the wheel whatsoever.To answer a question about why I am considering looking to change what TJ engineers have created, well just because I am going to make changes to the Jeep that differs from what the engineers were creating. I plan to put about 3"-4" lift and 35" tires on the Jeep. This is mild by some peoples build, but far from a stock street only wrangler. So I am just looking around to see what works and what does not. I do have a mild case of death wobble right now with a mostly stock 2006 TJ and 45,000 miles. I put a 1.5" puck lift on the stock Rubicon and the tires are currently 265/65/16. Just that little bit of a change has already caused problems with the death wobble resistant Haltengerger design. So I started looking at fixes.
Yep, that one.
At some point for the TJ, I'd like someone to explain why or how that is actually something worthwhile. If you are taking out the ring and pinion often enough to justify that gear set, you really should be considering a larger axle.
What I don't understand is why the haltenberger linkage not used on the newer jeeps?
What I don't understand is why the haltenberger linkage not used on the newer jeeps?
Another place which has a "solid reputation" is Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts. When I talked with Shawn, he recommended the greaseable U-joints over the non-greaseable, at least for my particular use. I figure he just might know a thing or two about driveshafts and U-joints.
There is little wrong with greaseable ujoints as long as they are greased. Problem is that they need to be serviced every 3000-3500 miles and most people now days are not doing that.
I sure would not. I know Blaine already knows this but for those that do not:
Those flatter angles will help with bump steer in the short amount of suspension travel typically seen for highway driving, but the moment you start pushing things past that the disparity of length between the track bar and drag link will rear its ugly head. Then add on top of that the side effects the short track bar. Everything crashing into each other like driveshafts into exhaust, shocks into mounts, and the always delightful coil twang if you are not running coilovers(which will be a pain to fit as well). Also there is a question about the relationship between the front and rear track bars and how the chassis reacts to the difference in distance it is pulled or pushed throughout the range of travel if they are too different in length.
Tom Wood’s recommends every 6000 miles, or with every oil change, or whenever you run through a lot of water and dirt – and you have to grease the cardan center ball anyway, and possibly the slip yoke.
I figured that if I had to grease the center ball anyway, I could do the U-joints too.
But I must admit, non-greaseable joints would probably outlast me.
Posted this in my build thread but here is a OEM Spicer greaseable after 4000 miles. This is why I recommend greasing every 3500 miles and there is no such thing as over greasing a ujoint.
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You sure that 500 miles is what made the difference