Does anyone run the oro u-turn? have it, came with the jeep, i would like to change it back to the stock Y-link style... i am running radius LA in the front, about 5.5" or so lift, is the c-link too short?
thx
thx
What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
OP
The PO installed ORO U-Turn. I took it off and went with the more conventional Currie CurrectLync and I got rid of a drop double shear drag link connection at the frame.
Before these changes, I had terrible bump steer. With other upgrades and improvements, my TJ is very enjoyable to drive on the highway.
ORO U-Turn is stuffed somewhere in the garage. Useless I would think.
cj cake
New Member
Any thoughts on this set-up? I ran across this video about two years ago and he seems to know what he is talking about.
That isn't what I asked. Do you mind a trackbar that produces more side to side shift as the suspension cycles?
cj cake
New Member
If there are two options to consider, which gives you the best result?
1. A shorter trackbar that is set up level
2. A longer track bar that is at a steeper angle?
In the video I am imbedding, it shows the "sagitta" of a long and a short track bar. It looks like the length of the track bar has a negative effect, but not as much as I originally thought. I am trying to determine if the longer track bar has a greater lateral displacement since the arc that it is traveling on is further away from 90 degrees compared to the shorter, but parallel trackbar.
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxGbmiNgkD0c9wdJaCxloMiTe2f_Ho0olg
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If you have never set up custom shocks or suspension, you won't understand why a shorter trackbar sucks.
I sure would not. I know Blaine already knows this but for those that do not:
Those flatter angles will help with bump steer in the short amount of suspension travel typically seen for highway driving, but the moment you start pushing things past that the disparity of length between the track bar and drag link will rear its ugly head. Then add on top of that the side effects the short track bar. Everything crashing into each other like driveshafts into exhaust, shocks into mounts, and the always delightful coil twang if you are not running coilovers(which will be a pain to fit as well). Also there is a question about the relationship between the front and rear track bars and how the chassis reacts to the difference in distance it is pulled or pushed throughout the range of travel if they are too different in length.
cj cake
New Member
That is why I ask question from people who have this experience. I am a rookie to say the least. I appreciate your willingness to answer questions and help me understand the situation better.
cj cake
New Member
I see your point. In the video I posted from Jantz Engineering, If the track bar is able to be made longer, not shorter, is there any other issue with his design? If you can have a drag link that is equal length or even longer than stock, but you also convert to crossover steering and get the track bar and drag link level, is there any drawback to setting it up this way. Comparing to an inverted-Y like the Currie system to a crossover steering system like Jantz Engineering.
The first thing you need to do is figure out what is wrong with the stock arrangement before you try to improve upon it. There is no downside that is actual.
If you can package in a track bar with a length that closely resembles the drag link then it will work. Then the question becomes what problem are you trying to solve by getting rid of the Haltenberger (inverted y) linkage? Jeep used the Haltenberger linkage to help combat death wobble as explained by Blaine (quote from Chris first post of this thread):
"There are pros and cons to all types of steering as well as many varied definitions for what styles there are. The Haltenberger (the type of steering the TJ uses) was developed to break the connection to both knuckles and not suffer the tie rod roll that is inherent to Inverted-T, which connects the draglink to the tie rod. Crossover connects the knuckles with a tie rod and the draglink attaches to another point on the knuckle like the JK and WJ.
If you were on the 'net when the TJ was introduced, (or shortly thereafter) and paid attention, you may have noticed that it wasn't until a few years before the JK was introduced that Death Wobble became a commonly discussed topic in the TJ world. Inversely, the DW issues with the JK showed up almost from day one and that's due to the crossover steering being much more prone to DW which is exactly why the TJ's steering was developed."
If you do manage to get the track bar reasonably level and parallel to the ground, your choice to line the draglink up reasonably parallel and roughly the same length as the track bar comes with a few less than savory options.
You can really lower the steering gear side with a big drop pitman arm and then you will have to raise the axle side a fair bit. That will put the trackbar and draglink up fairly high above the axle tube.
At that point, you can decide to limit uptravel to keep the tie rod from crashing into stuff and then keep the trackbar and draglink out of the frame. Of course you can notch the frame for them, but the other side won't go up as high so you'll need a solution on the left side that allows the same uptravel as the notched frame does.
It would still be helpful to try and understand what problem you are trying to solve.
We need to dig up that comparison video between the greaseable and non greaseable u-joints that is floating around out there. It is a perfect example of someone who is authoritative sounding, commentary makes perfect sense the way he explains it, and all of it is 100% bullshit.
cj cake
New Member
From what I can gather, Carl Jantz has a solid reputation in the 4X4 community. I don't know if I would go so far as to compare what he says to someone else and their u-joint video.
And to be clear, I am not arguing with anything you guys are telling me, I am just asking the questions I have and exploring the options. Like I said before, I am a rookie in this area. But each time I have brought this topic up, I get a different expert opinion, and a lot of them differ drastically from each other.
To answer a question about why I am considering looking to change what TJ engineers have created, well just because I am going to make changes to the Jeep that differs from what the engineers were creating. I plan to put about 3"-4" lift and 35" tires on the Jeep. This is mild by some peoples build, but far from a stock street only wrangler. So I am just looking around to see what works and what does not. I do have a mild case of death wobble right now with a mostly stock 2006 TJ and 45,000 miles. I put a 1.5" puck lift on the stock Rubicon and the tires are currently 265/65/16. Just that little bit of a change has already caused problems with the death wobble resistant Haltengerger design. So I started looking at fixes.
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cj cake
New Member