What is the best way to flush the power steering fluid on my TJ?

JRUBIC0N

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My Power Steering Fluid is pretty dark and probably needs to be flushed and replaced. I've never done this and was wondering the best way to do this. 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
 
Flush by jacking front tires, suck out as much as possible from the reservoir, disconnect return line from steering box and then slowly turn wheel full left to full right until no more fluid comes out. Reconnect hine to steering box. Refill reservoir, again slowly turn full left to fill right and back. Make sure you keep fluid in the reservoir. 3-4 times should do. Check fluid level
If ok start engine, then once again slow full left to full right to get any remaining air pockets purged out. Then confirm fluid level, remove jackstands, and you are good to go.
 
I have never bothered to disconnect anything in order to do a more comprehensive flush unless the power steering fluid was contaminated. If one is doing routine maintenance and the fluid simply appears "dirty" all that is required is using a turkey baster to suck out some of the old and replace with new. Some do it at successive oil changes until a significant amount has been exchanged; some repeat the process a few times over several days of driving to accomplish the same thing; some never service the power steering fluid at all, ever, and experience no adverse results.

Also, any ATF will work. Chrysler specs ATF+4 because that it what it specs for its automatic transmissions, not because ATF+4 contains an additive essential for the operation of the power steering pump. Consistency helps avoid the possibility of pouring the wrong stuff into the transmission by mistake and the more jaded among us would observe that recommending ATF+4 probably also results in a small royalty to Chrysler.
 
Just used the turkey baster method recently. Works like a charm, took only 10 minutes. I like to do it a couple times after buying a used vehicle and then do again after another 5 years or so if I keep it that long.

I do the same for my brake fluid once per year. The moisture and fluid density migration throughout that system is much much slower, but over the years it helps to keep it fresher.

A helpful tip for those that don’t know. ATF and brake fluid are classified as “oils” and can be recycled in the same container as your motor oil. After I found this out, I started doing the above now and then since it was so easy to do during an oil change.
 
As for the ATF +4, it's also recommended for transfer case, so I just went with it. Beats buying different fluids when you don't have to. As long as the ATF bottle says +4, you're meeting the manufacturers specs.
 
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Goatman said:
. . . Goatman would seem to be in the camp of answering the question that was asked. . . .

Not really.

OP asked for the best way to deal with dark power steering fluid that he thinks probably needs to be flushed and replaced. This is what he posted:

My Power Steering Fluid is pretty dark and probably needs to be flushed and replaced. I've never done this and was wondering the best way to do this.

The underlying question is whether OP's power steering fluid even need to be replaced.

The answer in the Factory Service Manual is that is dark power steering fluid is not a cause for concern and does not indicate that the power steering system needs to be flushed or replaced.

The "turkey baster method" detailed by several members is a quick, easy and noninvasive way to deal with dark but otherwise uncontaminated power steering fluid if it becomes bothersome to a vehicle owner, but as noted from the passage in the 2006 Owner's Manual quoted in a previous post even that is unnecessary:

From the 2006 Factory Service Manual, Lubrication & Maintenance, page 0-6:

"POWER STEERING FLUID
The recommended fluid for the power steering system
is Mopar ATF +4.

Mopar ATF+4, when new is red in color. The
ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other
fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze.
The red color is not permanent and is not an
indicator of fluid condition, As the vehicle is driven,

the ATF+4 will begin to look darker in color and may
eventually become brown. THIS IS NORMAL.
ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with
age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to

indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid
change." [Emphasis supplied.]


Chrysler's words, not mine.
 
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"Probably needs to be flushed. Never done this ... wondering the best way" I explained the best way. And according to your post then the Turkey baster is taboo too, yet you recommend it. Put your big boy pants on and let him decide what if anything should be done. He has you with the verbatim words from the service manual. He has a way to remove some fluid with no work required. And he has a way to remove and replace all fluid safely. Now why dont we all just grow up and let him decide what is best for him in his situation. 🤐
 
Flush by jacking front tires, suck out as much as possible from the reservoir, disconnect return line from steering box and then slowly turn wheel full left to full right until no more fluid comes out. Reconnect hine to steering box. Refill reservoir, again slowly turn full left to fill right and back. Make sure you keep fluid in the reservoir. 3-4 times should do. Check fluid level
If ok start engine, then once again slow full left to full right to get any remaining air pockets purged out. Then confirm fluid level, remove jackstands, and you are good to go.

Before you start the engine and turn the wheel, do you put the reservoir cap back on?