What is the OPDA and do I need to change mine?

There is a Chrysler web link you can use to check for any recall upgrades done.
When I keyed in my serial number it told me Chrysler had done a warranty upgrade to address the OPDA issue in 2007.
 
If this is such a quick fix and not really an expensive one, why all of the hate of the 05/06 TJ's. I see people saying if you have a choice stay away from the 05/06 because of the OPDA issue. I have an 05 and no problems but if it did surface this is no more of a costly fix than a new battery. I don't get it
 
Mine went out about a week after I bought my 06 LJ. Of course I wasn’t a member here at the time and didn’t know about the Crown redesigned one. I ordered a new one from Rock Auto, no idea what brand although it could very well have been a Crown? Anyway I found the timing to be a PITA, I clocked it exactly the same as the oem one and it still threw codes and required some adjustments. Also the CPS that came with it was a POS and it also threw codes until I put the original one back in. All good ever since, that was about 2 years ago. All in all it was a great intro to Jeep ownership right off the bat, since then I’ve had to do a fuel pump, heater core, and a couple other fairly major stupid projects.
 
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Dealer Service Instructions for:

Customer Satisfaction Notification E05
Oil Pump Drive Gear

A revised drive gear parts package has been released. The second roll pin hole must be drilled in the revised drive gear.

Can anyone give some info on this? Why were they instructing to do this, and what was their reasoning?
 
Can anyone give some info on this? Why were they instructing to do this, and what was their reasoning?
It was a recall for 2005 models, but the OEM OPDA fix just made the weak spot a bit less weak. The OPDA shaft bearing wasn't getting oiled properly during operation and bearing wear would cause wobble of the OPDA shaft and it's gear that runs off the camshaft. If the OPDA shaft/gear wobbles, it can cause camshaft sensor sensitivity issues with the wobbling tone wheel in the OPDA assembly. These type of hall sensors are sensitive to slight gap changes and don't like a wobbling shaft that makes that gap vary when it spins, especially in extreme cold or heat when it can vary more than usual. In extreme cases when the OPDA bearing fails, if left alone and not attended to, it will wobble so much that it will eventually wear out the camshaft gear. Then you have to open up the engine and replace the camshaft to fix the gear.

The Crown OPDA assembly has a better design to allow better oiling to the shaft bearing.
 
Where was this hole being drilled that they were advising to do? That's the part that I'm wondering about. I read through a lot when mine needed replacing, but I don't remember seeing this one. I guess if I knew what a roll pin was, I probably wouldn't be as confused.😆
 
Where was this hole being drilled that they were advising to do? That's the part that I'm wondering about. I read through a lot when mine needed replacing, but I don't remember seeing this one. I guess if I knew what a roll pin was, I probably wouldn't be as confused.😆
I don't know the exact details, but they were kits that allowed the dealers to R&R the OPDA assembly. The hole would allow for better oiling of the bushing\bearing on the shaft. When they say "gear" I believe it means the shaft and gear portion of the OPDA assembly. This plugs into the rest of the assembly and the bushing\bearing separates the moveable and stationary parts of the assembly. If you go out and buy a new Mopar OEM OPDA, you will get this same new design out of the box. But, I wouldn't look to much into this because this design isn't considered as good as the Crown unit, at least by most of the community anyhow. Crown did indeed change the design and advertise based upon the new design that provided better oiling.

There are some threads on other forums where folks have made their homegrown oiling mechanisms for their OPDA units. Pulling fresh oil from the engine through the bearing. If you are really curious about this mechanism, I'd find and check out those threads.
 
Okay cool. Thanks, mots. That one just had me curious. When mine crapped out on me, I did come across the mods you mentioned. Came close to trying the oil cup mod. So far though, I haven't had any issues after replacing it. Fingers crossed.
 
So if I am understanding this correctly, you're replacing the OEM OPDA with the Crown Auto redesigned aftermarket unit and scraping the Crown Auto's CPS in favor of either reusing the factory CPS or purchasing an additional Mopar OEM CPS?

I'm asking because of this: when my Jeep has been idling for an extended period (like in a drive through or traffic) it will begin to idle high around 1,000rpm and surge intermittently up to 12-1400rmp. The only way to get it to go back down is to shut off and restart it. This sort of "resets" the period it will run until it starts doing it again. I can only assume, based on my reading, that the CPS is the issue and I thought while I was there I might as well replace the entire OPDA. I'd be a little ticked if I did all of that and it didn't resolve the issue though.

Thoughts?
 
either reusing the factory CPS or purchasing an additional Mopar OEM CPS?

Unless things have changed over the past 4 years or so, my understanding from reading the experiences of others, is that the new Mopar cam position sensors are a problem also.
Those who still had, or managed to locate an original sensor by means of ebay, CL , etc., those guys had no more issues. No more issues after the OPDA was replaced with the Crown replacement, and original sensor.
 
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So if I am understanding this correctly, you're replacing the OEM OPDA with the Crown Auto redesigned aftermarket unit and scraping the Crown Auto's CPS in favor of either reusing the factory CPS or purchasing an additional Mopar OEM CPS?

I'm asking because of this: when my Jeep has been idling for an extended period (like in a drive through or traffic) it will begin to idle high around 1,000rpm and surge intermittently up to 12-1400rmp. The only way to get it to go back down is to shut off and restart it. This sort of "resets" the period it will run until it starts doing it again. I can only assume, based on my reading, that the CPS is the issue and I thought while I was there I might as well replace the entire OPDA. I'd be a little ticked if I did all of that and it didn't resolve the issue though.

Thoughts?
The first thing I’d do if you haven’t yet is a thorough cleaning of the throttle body and especially the idle air control valve. If there’s a bunch of carbon and junk in in it it can hang up a little and cause a high idle. Plus, that’s a free fix.
Cam and crank pos sensor issues usually involve the engine missing or quitting completely without warning

OPDA failure is a bearing in there that will actually sound like a bad belt or a squeaking pully, but way louder.
 
Hey I think mine may be going bad. Would it make any sense that the noise stops or gets much quieter as the engine heats up?

I thought it was coming from somewhere in the belt area but I think I’ve eliminated everything there.
 
This is my first post on this board. Does anybody know for sure what the sequence of events is for a real failure? I have followed this topic for many years and it seems a lot of folks pull their opda out to look at it, see some wear on the gears, and then conclude they have a bad opda. Is the thinking a bushing on the shaft fails which cause a gear missalignment Which eats the gears. Or is the thinking the gear is bad? has anybody had a failure on an aftermarket opda? I suspect the universe of aftermarket opdas is miniscule compared to the oem. I once head that there were 55,000 LJs made, no telling how many 05 and 06 TJs.
 
Welcome. Hell of a first post :( , sorry to hear you are having these problems. The OEM design of the OPDA on the 05-06 is definitely a weak spot. Most that need a rebuild look at everything from R&R'ing the camshaft on their own to replacement HEMI's with side by side PCM's etc.

Personally, I think a replacement stroker is a solid middle of the road option since it is a straightforward "drop in" and keeps the TJ with its 4.0 heritage. I think 4k for an engine and 3k to install sounds about right to me if a dealer does a typical engine replacement. If mine ever bites the dust (knocks on wood), a stroker is likely what I would do. While it would be nice, I really don't need a 400HP HEMI engine in my TJ! That said, there are pros and cons to all the routes one could take. I like what I see with the Golen 4.6 strokers, but I don't have any first or second hand experience with them. They are also very expensive compared to some of the other 4.0 replacement options. I guess you are paying for the valve cover, other goodies they throw in, along with their experience and warranty. I'd probably be inclined to find a builder that can do something similar for me at a lower cost, or try to do it myself with the engine still in the Jeep if possible.

Have you been able to inspect the OPDA gear and matching camshaft gear wear yourself? Any pics? When I experienced the P0016 on my 05 last year, I immediately replaced the OEM OPDA (LDI Inc.) with the Crown unit. My 05 was a later build and was not in the OPDA recall. It had 103k at the time. My OPDA gear showed a little wear, nothing major, and the shaft had a little play which was causing the wearing issue and the code to pop. My camshaft looked OK from what I could see without removing it. I believe the OPDA gear took the brunt of it (as designed). I've driven around 2k since then on the Crown OPDA without issues, but I do plan to remove and inspect the OPDA every 5000 miles or so to keep tabs on it (every 2 to 3 years for me), unless I hear something funny or pop codes before that.

One other note: About 6 months after the OPDA replacement, I've also added a thin shim (foil washer I made) to pull the camshaft sensor back away from the OPDA tone wheel a tad bit (~0.001-.003"). In very cold weather (0-5 degrees), I was getting a P0344 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent) on start. After warm, no issues. This is because the tolerances are so tight and the OPDA shaft (with tone wheel) likely wobbles ever so slightly on startup in this drastic condition. Also, the aftermarket camshaft sensors and the newer Mopar sensors to some extent, also have problems operating in the cold without throwing this code. On higher mileage engines, sometimes tolerances become off just a bit and adjustments like this become required (unless you want to rebuild the engine). I've seem manufacturers selling these shims for similar camshaft and/or crankshaft sensors due to the "old age" out of tolerance conditions. This is our only option since we can't adjust the cam sensor "air gap" on the 4.0L.
I am interested in the shim fix you mentioned. I have this exact issue and would like to ask where you place the shim under the cps.

Thanks, Tom
 
So I'm trying to trace a ticking sound that comes and goes, 01 4.0 its not the barrel of monkeys, but it is a higher-pitched louder tick that comes when the jeeps is warm, especially after some aggressive driving.

I don't think this is the normal 4.0 diesel chatter (I do have that too), it's less prevalent at idle and more so under accel with load. do you think it could be the OPDA? or more likely to be lifter-related
 
One of the most common issues with the 4.0 engine in the later model Wrangler TJs is the OPDA (oil pump drive assembly). The factory OPDA is designed with two oil impregnated bronze bushings separated by an oil seal. The upper bushing is cut off from lubrication by that seal, resulting in premature failure. Over time, radial movement develops in the shaft. Eventually, the complete assembly and camshaft will fail.

Jeep / Chrysler is well aware of the OPDA issue with these cars as they issued the E05 recall for some of the 2005 model 4.0 engines due to premature oil pump drive gear wear. This recall involved engines that were built between 10/20/2004 and 02/01/2005. However, don't be fooled by the recall dates as there are many owners of 2006 models (and even the years prior to 2005) that have experienced OPDA issues, including complete failure.

A worn oil pump drive assembly will show symptoms, such as a check engine light or a squeaking noise coming from the oil pump drive assembly itself (some people describe the noise as a loud screeching sound or something similar to a laughing barrel of monkeys).

The fact of the matter however is this is no laughing matter. Ignoring a bad OPDA can and will result in catastrophic engine failure which will put you in the hole for thousands of dollars. On the contrary, a replacement OPDA is only a bit more than $100, and it's a very easy thing to change out as well.

If you recently purchased a used Wrangler TJ one of the first things you should think about doing is to change out the OPDA with the redesigned Crown Automotive OPDA, regardless of what year your Wrangler TJ is.

The reengineered Crown OPDA moves the seal above the upper bushings, allowing oil to lubricate it. An oil channel was also added to the shaft to increase overall lubrication to the area.

You can purchase the Crown OPDA here.

The video below perfectly demonstrates step-by-step how to change out the OPDA.

I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler (106,000 miles) and the only real issue I have is the oil pressure. It will drop to 5-10 when stopped at a traffic light or slowing to make a turn. Engine light is also on. Oil drive? No monkeys as of yet.
 
I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler (106,000 miles) and the only real issue I have is the oil pressure. It will drop to 5-10 when stopped at a traffic light or slowing to make a turn. Engine light is also on. Oil drive? No monkeys as of yet.

The factory oil pressure gauge is grossly inaccurate and should not be trusted AT ALL.

The only way to tell if your oil pressure is actually low is to hook up an aftermarket gauge and test it. More than likely it's just your sending unit going bad.

In the future, it's easier to start a new thread than piggybacking off of one that already exists. You'll also get more views that way. Truth be told, you're lucky I even saw this one ;)
 
Newby mistakes. I read this article looking for information. Found this fix and ordered the part for my 2004 Wrangler X. Today I looked into my Jeep engine bay and to my surprised seems that what I ordered won't fit my application. Now I am trying to cancel the order. See the attached photo of what is actually in my Jeep. Saying that fits me. "Stupid mistakes are always paid with money".

View attachment 210054
Yes, prior to 2005 they had camshaft synchronizers is what I believe they were called.