What is this 2005 Unlimited worth?

BigDes

BigDes

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
49
Location
Omaha, NE
2005 LJ asking $15k
95k miles, 4.24" Zone combo lift
Located by the Gulf down in TX. I'll let the pictures do the talking.

My big question is if it is worth an offer or to leave it alone? My guess would be $12k/$13k then it's probably worth it. Am I way off and is there too much rust for that price? Owner claims he "took it to the beach 8/10 times and washed it after top to bottom." Also, "The frame is solid. It's not a rust bucket. I'm not saying there is zero rust anywhere but it's not even close to having a rust issue."

You guys have me not trusting a damn thing I see for sale since I was talked out of the crazy tree a few days ago. Thanks for that, by the way.

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Agreed, feel around inside the frame for rust scale. If you have an endoscope, it's a good thing to use for that too.
The rust I see on the underside is pretty low except for the rear lower control arms. Think I'd just budget for replacing the control arms with a set of decent adjustables. But, overall, for a coastal TJ it does not look bad at all.
If you are type "A" like me, you will be spending quite a lot of time and about 40,000 cans of paint (OK, prolly more like 40 cans) getting the underside cleaned up an beautiful. If you're more relaxed, two or three weekends and 10 cans will halt the rust on the frame where it's really important.

Here, in the Austin area, at least, LJ's go for big bucks and if it's sound and you could get it for $13 with that low mileage, it'd be a damn good deal. Assuming, that is, that it's what you're looking for.

EDIT: @IPerkWVU also has a good point about checking the Carfax to verify it is, in fact, a Texas jeep. If it's been up North, the rust might be more extensive (it's on you to check it). That said, if it has had a stent in the rust belt, the condition is still the condition and if, after a thorough inspection, you like what you see, you can simply use the fact that Carfax says it's been up North as a price bargaining chip. ;)
 
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Two years ago I paid 13K for a 2005 LJ with similar mileage. Mine wasn't perfect, but my axles and suspension components looked better that the pictures you posted. The Jeep in your pictures looks fairly solid, but will need a lot of TLC if you don't want it to get worse.

What a Jeep is worth, and what people are willing to pay are different. I think I overpaid for mine, but I wanted an LJ, and there weren't many available when I searched.
 
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As a long time LJ shopper (hoping to pull the trigger on one tomorrow finally!) that frame doesn't scare me. Looks pretty good, just double check with your fingers like others said.

Mileage is also pretty good, and it has a hard top.

Everything else would be a matter of how good of a deal you are getting and what you are willing to put up with. Any service history? Any leaks? Does the interior look taken care of? Pull up the carpets in the front and check the floorboards for rust. Has it had the ODPA done? Does it have a soft top too? That 4.25 kit is good for a budget kit, but not the best. I would personally be fine with it though. Again, none of these are deal breakers, just things to be aware of and price accordingly.

Also, auto or manual? The manuals tend to go for a bit more from my experience.
 
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My 03' Sahara looked very similar underneath. Surface rust and mud stains. I took a wire wheel cup attachment to my drill and spent about 3 hours on EVERYTHING underneath. I then sprayed it with some Walmart black satin
rubicon frame.jpg
stop rust paint I got for .99 cents a can and it looked like new when I was done. I did the same thing with my Rubicon.

p.s. I've run the Zone 4.25"
RUBI SKEL BEST 2 (2).jpg
combo lift on several of my Jeeps, including my Rubicon (Jeep #17 & 19 ) I have now . My Jeep was bought and lived in Texas for 12 years. Original owner (retired military) moved to Washington D.C. when I bought it three years ago. i bought my Rubicon stock from the original owner for $9500, which is a steal where I live. He had 10-15 people wanting it after 12 hours on craigslist. I sold it for $14,000 after the mods I've done because I needed money. I recently bought it back for $9,000 because I told the new owner to contact me FIRST if he wanted to sell it. He kept it in his garage and only drove it 1200 miles on the street in 2 years. I won't let it go again.
 
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Doesn't look like it is a native TX truck unless it's lived on the beach its whole life. Like others have said, I would investigate the inside of that frame a little. Look at the other rubber bits as well as those pucks are in pretty bad shape. Don't know what the value is as I don't know the market there in TX.
 
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BCB75 said:
Again, none of these are deal breakers, just things to be aware of and price accordingly.

Also, auto or manual? The manuals tend to go for a bit more from my experience.
Click to expand...

Auto, I'm looking for a daily that my wife can drive too when needed. Thanks for the input!
 
BigDes said:
Auto, I'm looking for a daily that my wife can drive too when needed. Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...
An auto is better offroad . I currently have a 5 speed. The 05-06' autos have a problem with the PCM and shifting. Also a OPDA possible problem. Wranglerfix has a permanent solution for the trans issue, if the problem comes up. I'd definitely give it a look and test drive.

p.s. manuals don't go for more than autos. It has nothing to do with the sale price. If you're set on an LJ and auto, go with an 04'. ALL of them are auto (no 5 speeds made) and they don't have any of the other issues I mentioned.
 
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Could be my imagination but seems like wrong time of year to buy Jeep. I paid 13 for mine in March with less rust and 4” Currie lift. Granted it has 135k but personally I worry less about that than the frame and build parts.

I would say your assessment is on track, no more than 13 if the rust is only surface and test drive doesn’t show any other issues.
 
I'm in Cedar Park outside of Austin, and that price is in the range. If it's a coast Jeep, that rust is about what I would expect, and wouldn't be huge concern, and sounds like you're not concerned.

With that mileage, and seeing what you've shown, there is some effort and parts money that will absolutely be necessary. Unless they've upgraded bushings and ball joints, I would look at all of that and factor it into the price when discussing it. Only problem I'm seeing here, I've looked at a couple, there are buyers that don't know or pay any attention to those issues, and will pay more not knowing they will have to put $1,500 or so just to clean some parts up and make sure it's solid (for a DD). Most beaches here you can drive on, so Jeeps like that usually see time on the sand, shocked only 8 times, can't have owned it that long, ha.

The cracks in the pucks, probably happening on all the bushings (just a guess) and those arms are factory, doubt they put in new bushings. I'd drive and check for slop and movement, and dry steering test it to see if stuff is moving/loose etc. Best way to get their attention, drive it and find a road doing a little over 40 with a slight curve.....if the steering wheel bounces some, tell them Death Wobble, and that it's gonna take a fix. Did exactly that here in Austin with a couple buddies and got $knocked off out of the gate.
 
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How could I forget that. Yes for auto, definitely prioritize an 04. Less engine, trans, and ecu issues. Plus there are plenty of them out there
 
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So did you buy it? If not send me the sellers info so I can see if it's still available.
 
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