What kind of locker for Dana 30 axle?

Powertrax no-slip was my first option. But does anyone have any experience with the Yukon grizzly locker?
Be aware some have had no problems. Others have had some very bad luck with the suggested lunchbox locker in the front Dana 30.

Click here for a very interesting thread on the powertrax. Memeber had multiple breaks driving parking lots and roads. Even had one new broken in the box.
 
2000 4.0 w/3 speed auto trans
For your 32RH and 35" tires I'd definitely go 4.56. 4.88's rpms on the highway would be excessive, I ran that combination (4.88/35's/32RH) for several years after converting from the 5-speed to the 32RH and I had to move over to the slow lanes on the highway.
 
#2 to the No-Slip locker made by Powertrax, that's about the best behaved lunchbox locker I'm aware of.

I ran one in my previous TJ for 7-8 years and loved it. Other good ones include the Aussie and the Lockrite made by Powertrax but those two click/ratchet through turns where the No-Slip is quiet which is nice when you're in a parking lot and you don't want everyone wondering why your front axle is making a clicking noise lol. Kind of like the sound a ratchet wrench makes but on a bigger scale.

I'd trust the No-Slip, Aussie, and Lockrite over other brands of lunchbox lockers.

Mr. Jerry, will this work if I plan on installing super 30 upgrades?
I found this
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16104_102.htm
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Mr. Jerry, will this work if I plan on installing super 30 upgrades?
I found this
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16104_102.htm

No, the Super 30 kit replaces the factory 27 spline shafts with larger diameter 30 spline shafts which are too large to fit a lunchbox locker like the No-Slip. You'd need a full carrier 30 spline locker like an Eaton E-Locker or ARB Air Locker after installing a Super 30 kit.

Personally, and what I did on my previous TJ, I'd upgrade the front 27 spline inner and outer shafts to 27 spline chromoly 4340, 4310, etc. and go with that No-Slip.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Weasellee
I’m pretty sure those are full time and you don’t want that up front if you plan to drive on the street.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yukon Grizzly front and rear. '97 4L auto. It's totally invisible unless you are in 4. I couldn't care less about people in the parking lot hearing it. Sure there's some clicking, but I kinda like knowing it's at work full time. You never engage 4 on the street, so it simply doesn't matter in that scenario. On the trail, it's not often I need 4 because of the mechanical lock in the rear. But when I do, it grabs all of everything. Big boost in confidence - running f8.8 in the rear and Dana 30 in the front. All Chromalloy shafts for piece of mind.

I love that I don't ever have to rely on air, electric, or even breaking the slip - never push buttons or switches, just "engage 4". I DD'd the girl for a while when she was my only transpo, and it was not an issue. Just stay to the right on the freeway lol, relax.

seriously, looking back, it wasn't cheap, but i'd mod exactly the same thing again!
 
No, the Super 30 kit replaces the factory 27 spline shafts with larger diameter 30 spline shafts which are too large to fit a lunchbox locker like the No-Slip. You'd need a full carrier 30 spline locker like an Eaton E-Locker or ARB Air Locker after installing a Super 30 kit.

Personally, and what I did on my previous TJ, I'd upgrade the front 27 spline inner and outer shafts to 27 spline chromoly 4340, 4310, etc. and go with that No-Slip.

Reflecting on Jerry's comments above...

I'm in a bit of a dilema on this topic. I'm going with ARBs front and back. I currently have 33s, and I have no plans to go bigger currently, but I am wondering whether I need to think about the relatively small chance of going to 35s. My understanding is that anything above 33s and I will need chromoly shafts in the Dana 30 at the front. As I am fitting the ARBs in the near future then I need to decide between two options:

1) the 27 spline locker, in which case I can run with the stock shafts for now and may never incur the cost of going to chromoly, but will be limited to 27 spline inner shafts if I do ever upgrade

2) the 30 spline locker, in which case I will need to spend on upgrading to chromoly shafts now but will be future proofed if I do ever go to 35s

I have read the 30 spline is something like 40% stronger than the 27, is that the sort of number people recognise? Is the the increase in strength a real word benefit in my situation, or is there likely to be a weaker link that will give way before a 27 spline inner? For example, with 30 spline inner and 27 spline outer is the outer shaft likely to break before the inner in most situations? Has anybody gone so far as to also run 30 spline outers?

Another thought I have is that staying at 27 spline inner and outer will mean I would still have spare shafts (in the form of the OEM ones that would get taken out) in a situation where I do break one. The risk is I break a 30 spline shaft and then have to wait months for one to come in to stock and ship to the UK.

Any thoughts?
 
Was thinking about an OX locker in the rear and maybe a lunch box locker up front. But i do like the idea of being able to switch it off so I'm torn.
 
Was thinking about an OX locker in the rear and maybe a lunch box locker up front. But i do like the idea of being able to switch it off so I'm torn.
You won't find many Ox locker fans here. I kinda liked their premise when they first started 20 years ago, being cable actuated when they first started selling them, but it didn't take long for my opinion to change after so many complained how difficult the cable and lever was to get installed and keep adjusted then. Their "reason for being" was to go after the ARB Air Locker, claiming its air actuated locker system wasn't reliable. That claim was bullshit but it didn't prevent Ox from claiming it was and getting some to believe it. Then they finally realized too many potential customers didn't want a cable actuated locker, which was a PITA to engage anyway, so they then came out with external air and electric actuators which were Rube Goldberg contraptions. They've improved their actuators, they had to, but they're still not as simple as the air locker from ARB or the electric locker from Eaton. Which is why they're still not a popular locker, I can count on one hand the number I've seen in my wheeling groups since Ox came out.

If I were to need replacement lockers, my short list has just two on it, the Eaton E-Locker or the ARB Air Locker. Personally, I wouldn't even consider an Ox.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Cooper
You won't find many Ox locker fans here. I kinda liked their premise when they first started 20 years ago, being cable actuated when they first started selling them, but it didn't take long for my opinion to change after so many complained how difficult the cable and lever was to get installed and keep adjusted then. Their "reason for being" was to go after the ARB Air Locker, claiming its air actuated locker system wasn't reliable. That claim was bullshit but it didn't prevent Ox from claiming it was and getting some to believe it. Then they finally realized too many potential customers didn't want a cable actuated locker, which was a PITA to engage anyway, so they then came out with external air and electric actuators which were Rube Goldberg contraptions. They've improved their actuators, they had to, but they're still not as simple as the air locker from ARB or the electric locker from Eaton. Which is why they're still not a popular locker, I can count on one hand the number I've seen in my wheeling groups since Ox came out.

If I were to need replacement lockers, my short list has just two on it, the Eaton E-Locker or the ARB Air Locker. Personally, I wouldn't even consider an Ox.

Thanks for the input. I had an ARB air locker on my Xterra and it worked fine. It did keep developing an air leak at the fitting on the diff. easy fix but kept happening. Was looking at E lockers. Have one on the F150 and i beat it pretty good. Hasn't failed yet. I can see that cable being an issues over time. Didn't think about that but can see that getting hard to actuate over time if not well maintained. I'm not new to wheeling but pretty new to the jeep world. Just bought the misses an 03 for Xmas. Has a Dana 44 rear and 30 front. looks to be about a 2.5 in lift with 33s. I added a bumper and winch this weekend. Next on our list are lockers while I do all the over maintenance stuff. Had the joy of doing the harmonic balancer yesterday as it failed as soon as i put a new belt on it. Wasn't too bad of a job. Again thanks for the input and thanks in advance for any other stuff you guys help with. I'm sure I'll be on this site a lot.
 
  • USA Proud
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Thanks for the input. I had an ARB air locker on my Xterra and it worked fine. It did keep developing an air leak at the fitting on the diff. easy fix but kept happening. Was looking at E lockers. Have one on the F150 and i beat it pretty good. Hasn't failed yet. I can see that cable being an issues over time. Didn't think about that but can see that getting hard to actuate over time if not well maintained. I'm not new to wheeling but pretty new to the jeep world. Just bought the misses an 03 for Xmas. Has a Dana 44 rear and 30 front. looks to be about a 2.5 in lift with 33s. I added a bumper and winch this weekend. Next on our list are lockers while I do all the over maintenance stuff. Had the joy of doing the harmonic balancer yesterday as it failed as soon as i put a new belt on it. Wasn't too bad of a job. Again thanks for the input and thanks in advance for any other stuff you guys help with. I'm sure I'll be on this site a lot.

So I have the 04 TJ with the 30 front and 44 rear! what are the spline counts on both of them? 4liter 5spd jeep. What lockers did you end up with? are you still glad you went that way? (I see this was from 2022) Thx for any help you can give!!
 
So I have the 04 TJ with the 30 front and 44 rear! what are the spline counts on both of them? 4liter 5spd jeep. What lockers did you end up with? are you still glad you went that way? (I see this was from 2022) Thx for any help you can give!!
Dana 44 has 30 splines, Dana 30 has 27 splines. Since you live up in BC and presumably the roads get icy/slick where you live I'd only go with selectable lockers that can be kept off until needed like the Eaton E-Locker or ARB Air Locker. Personally I'd go with the E-Locker which is less costly and slightly easier to install due to it being electric and doesn't need a compressor and a solenoid actuated air valve like the ARB does.
 
Dana 44 has 30 splines, Dana 30 has 27 splines. Since you live up in BC and presumably the roads get icy/slick where you live I'd only go with selectable lockers that can be kept off until needed like the Eaton E-Locker or ARB Air Locker. Personally I'd go with the E-Locker which is less costly and slightly easier to install due to it being electric and doesn't need a compressor and a solenoid actuated air valve like the ARB does.

Thx for your answer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Per recommendation from Jerry, I installed the Powertrax No-Slip and it has been the best piece of equipment I've installed so far. I have no rear locker and have yet to get stuck or climb anything (within reason). I 've gone up some steep loose hills with full air in tires and the Jeep just kept on climbing. I have heard some clicking, but only on rare occasions.
Easy to install, I had to remove ring gear, the cross pin shaft would not clear 3:73 ring gear. I was in the process of rebuilding/refreshing the Dana 30 anyway so no issues.
On the trail, there have been a few times where the front felt like it was tight when turning, but nothing excessive.
NS is running on 32" tires.

So when you had to remove the ring gear… does the gear lash have to be reset?( which should be done by pro’s I’m told) or is it just unbolt the ring gear to deal with the cross shaft and bolt it back in place and all is good?
Thx for the info ahead of time!
 
So when you had to remove the ring gear… does the gear lash have to be reset?( which should be done by pro’s I’m told) or is it just unbolt the ring gear to deal with the cross shaft and bolt it back in place and all is good?
You do not have to mess with the backlash after just installing a lunchbox locker if you reinstall the same ring gear. And not always (rarely) would it need to be adjusted even after installing a full case locker.

But checking and/or adjusting the back lash is not difficult when required, it doesn't require an expert like installing new R&P gears do. At the most the carrier might need to be shimmed slightly to the left or right but with the use of a dial indicator it's a fairly easy job for most able to do common wrenching jobs.