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What manual shifter knob do you have?

srimes

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Question for this thread:
Those of you who drilled out and/or used inserts for your shift knobs, did you use helicoils, full-steel inserts, or something else?

I understand if I use a knob with smaller diameter (say 3/8"-16) I'll need to drill out the smaller threads, then tap for an insert which will provide the correct internal 10x1.5 threads.
This is what I understand I'd need for this option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2URQWB/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If I use a knob with a larger hole (say 1/2"-13 or larger), can I simply screw in an insert that matches the larger external threads, but with the correct internal 10-1.5 threads and be done?
This is what I think I may need for this option: https://www.ezlok.com/ezlok-insert-319-M10

Any advice or guidance provided is greatly appreciated.

No need for an insert, just drill and tap to the size you need. Primary reason for an insert is to make the hole smaller. If it's already small why make it too big?

Secondary reason for an insert is for stronger threads in soft material, but that shouldn't be an issue here. Mine is made from a soft wood directly tapped and it's solid. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/shift-knob-ideas.50994/page-3#post-907265
 
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Fulton_Hogan

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3/8-16 is actually really close to M10x1.5. So close in fact that I've had success just running an M10 tap through the 3/8 threads on an old CJ shift knob and it threaded right on.

3/8-16 = M9.5 x 1.58

I wouldn't suggest doing that on a critical, loaded fastener but it works on a shift knob.
I was thinking this, based on the major/minor measurements of both the 3/8" and M10.

No need for an insert, just drill and tap to the size you need. Primary reason for an insert is to make the hole smaller. If it's already small why make it too big?

Secondary reason for an insert is for stronger threads in soft material, but that shouldn't be an issue here. Mine is made from a soft wood directly tapped and it's solid. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/shift-knob-ideas.50994/page-3#post-907265

If the knob I have on hand starts out with a bigger hole, say 1/2"-13, I was figuring going with an insert. That would save drilling and tapping. A single step, rather than three (drill, tap, install insert) where I could potentially screw up something. (I've always liked the handmade aspect of the shift knob you made; good job BTW!)

Thank you both for replying.

For once, I'm going to try the least-intensive route; I am going to try and get 1/2"-13 down to M10-1.5 with an E-Z Lok insert.

If that's a no-go, I'll go a more involved route; sizing up a 3/8" first by re-tapping, and that doesn't work, then drill, tap, and install the metric insert.

At that point I'll chalk it all up to being able to learn/reapply a few skills.
 

Zorba

"The Veiled Male"
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I love the straight TC shift rod a few of you have, but I can’t seem to find anything like that on eBay at this time. Anyone got a link to something similar?
Apparently, they come and go on eBay - keep trying...

Also - you may want to heat and bend a dogleg into it.
 
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Moglocker

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Apparently, they come and go on eBay - keep trying...

Also - you may want to heat and bend a dogleg into it.
I just bought a stock one on eBay from dead jeep parts and gonna play with it,but would love it if the guy would start making more,I hate the emergency brake look
 

Zorba

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I just bought a stock one on eBay from dead jeep parts and gonna play with it,but would love it if the guy would start making more,I hate the emergency brake look
There's a thread here somewhere about a guy who did some welding and bending on a stock lever to make his own.
 
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freedom_in_4low

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I just bought a stock one on eBay from dead jeep parts and gonna play with it,but would love it if the guy would start making more,I hate the emergency brake look

This is the guy. When I wanted one I sent him a message and he let me know when he had another batch coming up.


I also don't like my TC lever looking like an E brake but I never did get his to work. The bend is too sharp so if you adjust it where it will reach 4 low before hiring the console, the lever bottoms out against the steel before reaching 2H. And vice versa. I still have mine but I haven't put it in my LJ yet. Need some time to fiddle with it and get the bend where it will work.
 
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Hesher

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This is the guy. When I wanted one I sent him a message and he let me know when he had another batch coming up.


I also don't like my TC lever looking like an E brake but I never did get his to work. The bend is too sharp so if you adjust it where it will reach 4 low before hiring the console, the lever bottoms out against the steel before reaching 2H. And vice versa. I still have mine but I haven't put it in my LJ yet. Need some time to fiddle with it and get the bend where it will work.
Awesome. Thanks for the username.

And I appreciate the heads up on the possible issues. Honestly his would be a good start to even mimic the dogleg in the factory arm, but then give you the ability to have a shift ball at the end.
 
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Zorba

"The Veiled Male"
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Awesome. Thanks for the username.

And I appreciate the heads up on the possible issues. Honestly his would be a good start to even mimic the dogleg in the factory arm, but then give you the ability to have a shift ball at the end.
Doesn't take much:

287.jpg
288.jpg
 

freedom_in_4low

Sacred Order of the Coil Spring
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I was thinking this, based on the major/minor measurements of both the 3/8" and M10.



If the knob I have on hand starts out with a bigger hole, say 1/2"-13, I was figuring going with an insert. That would save drilling and tapping. A single step, rather than three (drill, tap, install insert) where I could potentially screw up something. (I've always liked the handmade aspect of the shift knob you made; good job BTW!)

Thank you both for replying.

For once, I'm going to try the least-intensive route; I am going to try and get 1/2"-13 down to M10-1.5 with an E-Z Lok insert.

If that's a no-go, I'll go a more involved route; sizing up a 3/8" first by re-tapping, and that doesn't work, then drill, tap, and install the metric insert.

At that point I'll chalk it all up to being able to learn/reapply a few skills.

Thinking back I may have had to run a drill bit through to open up the minor diameter just a bit, before I ran through with the tap. I didn't have a metric tap set so I bought an M10x1.5 kit that included the tap and the correct drill bit.
 
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Moglocker

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Mar 19, 2021
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Missouri
Awesome. Thanks for the username.

And I appreciate the heads up on the possible issues. Honestly his would be a good start to even mimic the dogleg in the factory arm, but then give you the ability to have a shift ball at the end.
He’s not answering anymore 🥲