Please other than shocks what components are necessary for the 4” John Currie rock jock lift to function in my 2005 tj. Help
What other parts do I need with a Currie 4 inch lift?
- Thread starter Xwonsey
- Start date
- Adjustable control arms, upper and lower
- Adjustable front and rear track bars
- Rear track bar relocation bracket
- Double cardan rear drive shaft
- Slip yoke eliminator (if you have the 231 transfer case)
- Motor mount lift
- Bigger brakes
- Upgraded steering
- Body lift
If you view the various lift package options from Rock Jock you’ll get a good idea.
Definitely need an sye kit and dc rear driveshaft. Adjustable rear track bar would be good. Yj front brake lines.
Steering the currie currectlync is the best. Zj tie rod upgrade is ok. Stock will work but is weak. DO NOT put a drop pitman arm on!
What tire size? You need to regear the axles also
Congrats on your lift choice. Most of them are junk
Steering the currie currectlync is the best. Zj tie rod upgrade is ok. Stock will work but is weak. DO NOT put a drop pitman arm on!
What tire size? You need to regear the axles also
Congrats on your lift choice. Most of them are junk
Yes on brake lines.
My PO put a 4" lift on my Jeep without most of this stuff.
The short brake lines were acting as defacto limiting straps on the front end.
-Mac
My PO put a 4" lift on my Jeep without most of this stuff.
The short brake lines were acting as defacto limiting straps on the front end.
-Mac
YJ brake lines? What exactly to buy/order. As far as sye an dc rear sheet who’s? Where to get them from. Np231 t-case.
Just order the OEM brake lines for a 1995 or older Wrangler YJ. They are longer than the OEM Wrangler TJ. You can get both a good SYE and DC driveshaft from https://4xshaft.com, ask for Shawn Wood who is the son of the founder mostly-retired Tom Wood. They are absolutely superb on pre-sales and post-sales support.
And not to dump on Jerry's recommendation but I used Adam's Driveshaft for both my TJ and JK with excellent results.
I believe both of them will sell you a SYE. You'll have to decide between a regular... essentially still has the speedo gear...or a SS or super short and make provisions for an aftermarket speedo pickup.
I still haven't done control arms (I did put cheap rear adjustable uppers), a body lift or motor mount lift (MML) on mine. Waiting for the CC to stop smoldering.
-Mac
I believe both of them will sell you a SYE. You'll have to decide between a regular... essentially still has the speedo gear...or a SS or super short and make provisions for an aftermarket speedo pickup.
I still haven't done control arms (I did put cheap rear adjustable uppers), a body lift or motor mount lift (MML) on mine. Waiting for the CC to stop smoldering.
-Mac
Don’t do the YJ lines. That’s old school. Do the extended Dorman. Yes, there’s a reason. The clocking position is limited on the YJ lines and if your lift ends up being 4.25” or more and you have enough extended coil length to accommodate a 10.75” travel shock, they are not long enough.
Thread 'Extended Front Brake Lines'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/extended-front-brake-lines.527/
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And behind door three...I used Crown's braided stainless and Teflon lines. Not cheap. Can hang a vehicle off a cliff on em. Available in decorative colors. I believe science has debunked any and all claims of superior braking performance...I like them because they're tough as hell.
https://www.crownperformance.com/
Caveate being I don't nearly have a 1/100th of Jerry's experience and knowledge of Jeeps.
-Mac
https://www.crownperformance.com/
Caveate being I don't nearly have a 1/100th of Jerry's experience and knowledge of Jeeps.
-Mac
X2 that stainless braid covered brake lines don't improve braking performance. Did you ever have a problem with your OE brake lines? I never had to replace any of mine other than to install a longer version up front.
Only reason is they can snag on inverted shock bodies (like fox) and bend the hardline portion. Downside to the dormans is the lack of supports let them flop all over.sometimes into places they shouldn't be
Other than being hard, stiff and cracked and when I articulated the suspension they stopped the travel before I came close to the bump stops...nope...they worked fine.
Here in the PNW we have trees. Attached to trees are a million sticks. They're all over the trails, mixed into the snow and mud, jutting out of rocks. Your brake hoses either need to be strong enough to skid a 33' log or you're going to need spares and brake fluid.
Your mileage might vary. Had I known about the YJ interchange trick my cheapness would probably have outweighed my indestrictablemess.
-Mac
I recommend the JB Conversions super short sye.
http://www.jbconversions.com/cgi-bi...SMSB15240585801786240724.1807924&redirect=yes
Much shorter than the standard sye which gives you a longer driveshaft and better operating angles.
http://www.jbconversions.com/cgi-bi...SMSB15240585801786240724.1807924&redirect=yes
Much shorter than the standard sye which gives you a longer driveshaft and better operating angles.
I have never done the YJ brake lines, so I can't talk to them, but when I changed in to my Currie 4" springs and did an axle swap, I put in new brake lines. Blaine suggested the Dorman, and they went in pretty easy and good length, no issue. The Amazon links I used are below.
I also put in the JB Conversions out of Louisiana Super Short SYE. You need to get it for the 231, and get the 1310 Yoke if you have a Dana 35. It is very stout, very happy with it and put it in myself. It uses a tone ring and not a gear for the speedometer, so you also have to get a Healtech to get digitally dial it in, and it works really well. WIth all this, the adjustable control arms and other items that people suggested.
Dorman Front and Rear extended Brake Lines
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2CHHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2CBTY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Dorman Center Rear Extended Brake Lines
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2C63K/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I also put in the JB Conversions out of Louisiana Super Short SYE. You need to get it for the 231, and get the 1310 Yoke if you have a Dana 35. It is very stout, very happy with it and put it in myself. It uses a tone ring and not a gear for the speedometer, so you also have to get a Healtech to get digitally dial it in, and it works really well. WIth all this, the adjustable control arms and other items that people suggested.
Dorman Front and Rear extended Brake Lines
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2CHHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2CBTY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Dorman Center Rear Extended Brake Lines
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2C63K/?tag=wranglerorg-20
don't need to outboard... don't NEED... darn those needs vs wants. Which in turn would virtually require a tummy tuck and body lift, and a few other things
My LJ already had a 4" lift - so I did not need to do much more. I did change the steering yolk back to stock, and replaced the steering link with a currect link.
My LJ already had a 4" lift - so I did not need to do much more. I did change the steering yolk back to stock, and replaced the steering link with a currect link.
Lift kit and extended brake lines are on the way. Now If in fact I have to do a slip yoke eliminator and rear shaft is there a way to order both correctly without anything installed yet. I need everything required to drive the Jeep out of the shop before it gets torn apart. Thanks for the help in advance.