What parts are essential to replace when doing the throwout bearing?

Boomer453

TJ Enthusiast
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Jan 5, 2020
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Louisiana
I believe my throwout bearing is beginning to go out. It was squeeling when you depress the clutch yesterday (stopped making noise later for some reason)

This is on an 06 4.0

We're down here dealing with the after effects of hurricane Laura so I'd like to do it myself but have not done one before.

What parts are essential to do when replacing the bearing? I'm assuming the bearing, yoke and spring. How much of a chore will this be and roughly how much time should I plan on it taking (i'm fairly mechanically inclined)
 
Since you are there to replace the throw out bearing; you should consider replacing the pilot bushing, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and some members have even replaced the retaining springs.
Don't go on the cheap with the TOB; purchase a Timken TOB.
As for the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel; look into LUK kit.
You can find these parts on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZ6XV4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZ548M/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CQ16LHD/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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@Boomer453 you are looking at pulling the tranny so replacing the clutch and pilot bearing are fairly cheap items to replace while you are there. There are a couple of smaller items that you will want to inspect and replace like the throwout bearing fork and spring that retains it.

There are also some tools you will need like a tranny Jack and reverse torx bit (for upper tranny to engine bolts), and a bunch of extensions.

WRT the flywheel, I opted not to swap mine. Even at 197k miles it was in fine condition and would require new bolts etc... You may want to check it's condition before deciding to replace it. If the teeth are fine, no cracks, no heat damage etc... You may want to just clean it up and leave it alone.

Download the service manual from this site and watch a few videos. It's not a hard job, just time consuming if it's your first go at it.
 
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It depends on your skill. It took me about 15 hours of work time to do all of the above work with average DIY skills. If you had an assistant, I think it could be done in a long day. Plan for a weekend, just in case.
 
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Hope y’all are good over there, lots of friends lost their home and warehouse in Sulphur.
I’m assuming you have the 6 speed like my 05. I did thisEarlier this summer, and if you have pulled transmissions before, and have all the tools, yes it can be a long day job.

I found out that The Jeep flywheel is “Domed” and can’t be machined. Also, if you pull it you need to replace the bolts, so, if it isn’t damaged, I would leave the flywheel alone, maybe some emery cloth and clean it.
1. Pilot Bearing yes change it
2. The fork retainer spring, change that
3. Fork is usually good, inspect that
4. If I was pulling it, I’d put a new LUK clutch.
5. Get a good Throwout Throwout. Make sure the spring retainers that hold it to the fork are tight, and don’t over bend those when putting them on the fork.

Have an ETorx ready for the top 2 transmission bolts, and personally I replaced them with grade 8 hex head bolts.
 
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is your user name a reference to your generation or to a university in a neighboring state to the northwest?

Just curious, as I graduated from Oklahoma and a lot of my classmates ended up in the oil industry in TX and LA.
 
is your user name a reference to your generation or to a university in a neighboring state to the northwest?

Just curious, as I graduated from Oklahoma and a lot of my classmates ended up in the oil industry in TX and LA.
Neither lol, I'm oilfield trash but the name comes from a dog I used to have.
 
IF they dont have one to rent... HF has one to purchase that I used when replacing my clutch on my '98 XJ 4.0L
Don't buy the cheap scissor jack one. Its a POS. The adjustments are shit and the balance sucks. I had to use it and my floor jack to do mine. I would try the next $169 one.
 
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IF they dont have one to rent... HF has one to purchase that I used when replacing my clutch on my '98 XJ 4.0L
I bought the HF jack for $87 with 20% off coupon (online) just yesterday. Worked perfect. But, make sure to raise the back end up...the closer you can get the tranny to level, the easier to remove.
 
@Boomer453 - apologies if you already know these things.

A few tricks-raise the rear of your jeep so that the engine/transmission is level with the floor surface. It makes re-installation so much easier. Be sure to securely chock the front tires (in front of and behind the tires) and use sturdy jack stands at the rear.

To remove your shift knob with no damage, use a heat gun or a hair dryer on high to heat up the top of the knob, then just pop the shift pattern cap right off using a small flat screwdriver. To put it back in, you need to do the same, and you need to use the heat several times and slowly work the cap back in using your flat screwdriver, one section at a time, ensuring the pattern is oriented where you want it. Another set of hands is very helpful with this exercise. By the way, it is a 15mm nut inside the knob, and you must also unscrew the knob itself.

It's very likely that you will have a hard time separating the bell housing from the engine block-I certainly did. I used a 3/4" chisel and very carefully pried loose the driver and passenger side right at the mid-point bolt locations. If you do this, be sure you do not score, bend, or otherwise damage the engine block or bell housing. Slow, gentle, and patient is the way to go, and of course be sure you do, in fact, have all of the bolts out-some are hidden or not obvious. Once the housing is loose you can work the rest off with little effort. Of course, your bell housing may just pop right off, and if so then add another whisky at the celebratory finish.

Keep track of where your bolts go-there are some different sizes and some unbolt in different directions, and some seem to be hidden. You will need some blue thread locker for your drive shaft bolts. The transmission vent tube will need to be loosened at the top of the engine compartment-you may need to cut some wire ties so be sure to have some handy.

 
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I wouldn’t use a chisel separating, but that’s just me.

mid you have the bolts free (there are some coming front to back holding the sheet metal dust shield) if they are all off, just shaking back and forth should walk it out no issues.
 
Make absolutely sure you support the tranny when you drop the skid plate, it is structural, do NOT allow the engine to support the tranny, it can't..
Start spraying all bolts now w/ LW or PB, or whatever.
The bread and grease trick usually works on the pilot...Good luck!
 
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The
Make absolutely sure you support the tranny when you drop the skid plate, it is structural, do NOT allow the engine to support the tranny, it can't..
Start spraying all bolts now w/ LW or PB, or whatever.
The bread and grease trick usually works on the pilot...Good luck!
the pilot bearing puller and slide hammer kit for rent at Autozone is free, I would only use the bread trick if you can’t get to a rental tool.
 
The

the pilot bearing puller and slide hammer kit for rent at Autozone is free, I would only use the bread trick if you can’t get to a rental tool.
Our local AZ didn't have a puller that would fit.
I think on our last one we had to thread an oversized bolt in and pull it out.