STICKY What should I look for when buying a used Wrangler TJ?

Chris

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This is a really, really common question we see a lot of. I'm going to try to answer it as best I can, and if anyone else has anything to add please free free to respond.

Rust
If you're in the market for a 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ the number one thing you want to look for over anything else is rust. The chassis of these vehicles is extremely prone to rust issues, especially if you're located in the mid-west, east coast or other areas where they use salt on the roads in the Winter time.

Rust can be a huge issue on these vehicles. I've seen rust so bad that it's literally caused the frames to snap in half while driving down the road. It's no joking matter as that can be life threatening and extremely dangerous should something like that happen.

Having said that, when looking to purchase a TJ it would be a wise investment to either have a professional shop to a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) or if you feel comfortable doing it yourself, make sure to crawl underneath the vehicle and inspect every nook and cranny for rust. A few areas of surface rust isn't a big deal as it can be treated easily. What you're looking for will be huge areas of rust, and it will usually involve the frame of the vehicle.

In addition to checking the underside, it's a good idea to hit the frame (possibly with a rubber mallet) to see if you can knock any chunks of rust flakes loose from inside the frame (another area prone to rust).

It's always a safe bet to purchase a Wrangler TJ that has been a west coast car (or somewhere warm) where they don't salt the roads. Those vehicles usually have a much better chance of being free of rust issues.


Engine
You might have heard from someone that Jeeps are unreliable. This is actually quite inaccurate as a properly maintained Wrangler TJ is probably one of the most reliable vehicles out there. Take into consideration that you're dealing with an iron block, iron head, underhead cam pushrod driven engine. That's basically a tractor engine, and if you know about tractors, you'll know they build those things to be bullet proof.

The 4.0 engine in the TJ doesn't have any notorious weak points other than the OPDA (Oil Pump Drive Assembly). If the OPDA is going bad you will know because it will make a loud sound that almost sounds like a laughing barrel of monkeys. If you hear this noise it's bad news, so either have it inspected before purchasing it or walk away. It's a cheap part to fix and very easy to do, but if it goes bad it can result it catastrophic engine failure.

Other than the OPDA, the 4.0 (like most other engines out there) is as reliable as they come. Change the oil, do the scheduled maintenance and you shouldn't have anything to worry about. It's not uncommon by any means to see these things running healthy with perfect compression well past 300k miles. I've seen some with half a million miles still on the original internals.

This engine may not be the best performing engine, and it may be a gas hog at that. However, it certainly was built with longevity and durability in mind. The 4.0 engine found in the Wrangler has been around since 1965 since AMC first introduced it. It's got a proven track record and it's stood the test of time.


Drivetrain
Make sure you look at the trackbar(s) for wear and slotting of the mounts, especially the front one. This can cause death wobble and a potentially very dangerous situation. Also make sure that the transfer case shifts into 4WD (both high and low range) and functions properly. If the rig came with or has been retrofitted with lockers, be sure test them as well.

It's also helpful to determine what kind of axles the vehicle has prior to purchasing it. The addition of Dana 44 axles makes the Wrangler worth a bit more money and more desirable over all.


Conclusion
Rust should be your first concern when purchasing any used Wrangler TJ. It is hands down the number one issue with all used Wrangler TJs, and you really do not want to purchase a vehicle with major rust issues as it will be a huge, huge money pit.

Other than rust, there's really nothing vehicle specific that comes to my mind that you should look for when purchasing a used Wrangler TJ. Just like any other vehicle, you want to make sure you know the maintenance history, get a good CarFax, make sure the vehicle has never had any major accidents, clean title, etc. Unless you're looking for a project stay away from the cheap Wranglers as they often always spell trouble.

The Wrangler TJ is notorious for having a high resale value. Expect to pay a good chunk of change for one that is well kept and in good condition. Do your homework first, and if you see one that you're unsure about (or just want a second opinion) post pictures and details up on the forum so we can help you decide. A lot of us on here have a huge knowledge of Wranglers and would be more than happy to give you our thoughts and opinions.

Last but not least, check out the sticky on stock Wrangler TJ specifications as it will give you a complete break down of all the factory trim packages, models, options and specifications.
 
Also make sure you look at the trackbar(s) for wear and slotting of the mounts. Especially the front one. This can cause death wobble and a potentially very dangerous situation. Also make sure that the tcase shifts into 4wd (Hi and Lo range) and functions properly. If the rig came with or has been retrofitted with lockers, test them as well.
 
One more thing. If the front DS is not installed, check to make sure the front and rear ring and pinion ratios match, i.e. 4.10 fronts and 4.11 rear etc. This is not as common an issue as others you might encounter, however, we are talking about what issues to look for as to not get ripped off here.
 
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One more thing. If the front DS is not installed, check to make sure the front and rear ring and pinion ratios match, i.e. 4.10 fronts and 4.11 rear etc. This is not as common an issue as others you might encounter, however, we are talking about what issues to look for as to not get ripped off here.

This is true. The thought of connecting the DS when you've got different gears in each axle isn't a pretty picture.
 
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Yeah. I invision the tcase like a maraca. Or blow DS joints.

I was trying to envision it myself because I'm not actually sure what would happen... I'm guessing something would blow up.

Do you know what happens @Jerry Bransford?

I figure if anyone might have seen this first hand it would be Jerry or Blaine.
 
If your f/r axle ratios were way different, nothing would happen if you shifted into 4x4 while sitting still and then drove off. It would bind and stop you before you got too far. If you shifted into 4Hi while driving, I guess it would depend on your speed and how much traction the road surface had... anything from slipping or sliding on ice, to big tire chirps and crow hopping, to the the tcase imploding, a busted u-joint, etc.
 
Something explodes, that's what I figured! I'd love to see it happen (not on my TJ though!).
 
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This is a really, really common question we see a lot of. I'm going to try to answer it as best I can, and if anyone else has anything to add please free free to respond.

Rust
If you're in the market for a 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ the number one thing you want to look for over anything else is rust. The chassis of these vehicles is extremely prone to rust issues, especially if you're located in the mid-west, east coast or other areas where they use salt on the roads in the Winter time.

Rust can be a huge issue on these vehicles. I've seen rust so bad that it's literally caused the frames to snap in half while driving down the road. It's no joking matter as that can be life threatening and extremely dangerous should something like that happen.

Having said that, when looking to purchase a TJ it would be a wise investment to either have a professional shop to a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) or if you feel comfortable doing it yourself, make sure to crawl underneath the vehicle and inspect every nook and cranny for rust. A few areas of surface rust isn't a big deal as it can be treated easily. What you're looking for will be huge areas of rust, and it will usually involve the frame of the vehicle.

In addition to checking the underside, it's a good idea to hit the frame (possibly with a rubber mallet) to see if you can knock any chunks of rust flakes loose from inside the frame (another area prone to rust).

It's always a safe bet to purchase a Wrangler TJ that has been a west coast car (or somewhere warm) where they don't salt the roads. Those vehicles usually have a much better chance of being free of rust issues.


Engine
You might have heard from someone that Jeeps are unreliable. This is actually quite inaccurate as a properly maintained Wrangler TJ is probably one of the most reliable vehicles out there. Take into consideration that you're dealing with an iron block, iron head, underhead cam pushrod driven engine. That's basically a tractor engine, and if you know about tractors, you'll know they build those things to be bullet proof.

The 4.0 engine in the TJ doesn't have any notorious weak points other than the OPDA (Oil Pump Drive Assembly). If the OPDA is going bad you will know because it will make a loud sound that almost sounds like a laughing barrel of monkeys. If you hear this noise it's bad news, so either have it inspected before purchasing it or walk away. It's a cheap part to fix and very easy to do, but if it goes bad it can result it catastrophic engine failure.

Other than the OPDA, the 4.0 (like most other engines out there) is as reliable as they come. Change the oil, do the scheduled maintenance and you shouldn't have anything to worry about. It's not uncommon by any means to see these things running healthy with perfect compression well past 300k miles. I've seen some with half a million miles still on the original internals.

This engine may not be the best performing engine, and it may be a gas hog at that. However, it certainly was built with longevity and durability in mind. The 4.0 engine found in the Wrangler has been around since 1965 since AMC first introduced it. It's got a proven track record and it's stood the test of time.


Drivetrain
Make sure you look at the trackbar(s) for wear and slotting of the mounts, especially the front one. This can cause death wobble and a potentially very dangerous situation. Also make sure that the transfer case shifts into 4WD (both high and low range) and functions properly. If the rig came with or has been retrofitted with lockers, be sure test them as well.

It's also helpful to determine what kind of axles the vehicle has prior to purchasing it. The addition of Dana 44 axles makes the Wrangler worth a bit more money and more desirable over all.


Conclusion
Rust should be your first concern when purchasing any used Wrangler TJ. It is hands down the number one issue with all used Wrangler TJs, and you really do not want to purchase a vehicle with major rust issues as it will be a huge, huge money pit.

Other than rust, there's really nothing vehicle specific that comes to my mind that you should look for when purchasing a used Wrangler TJ. Just like any other vehicle, you want to make sure you know the maintenance history, get a good CarFax, make sure the vehicle has never had any major accidents, clean title, etc. Unless you're looking for a project stay away from the cheap Wranglers as they often always spell trouble.

The Wrangler TJ is notorious for having a high resale value. Expect to pay a good chunk of change for one that is well kept and in good condition. Do your homework first, and if you see one that you're unsure about (or just want a second opinion) post pictures and details up on the forum so we can help you decide. A lot of us on here have a huge knowledge of Wranglers and would be more than happy to give you our thoughts and opinions.

Last but not least, check out the sticky on stock Wrangler TJ specifications as it will give you a complete break down of all the factory trim packages, models, options and specifications.
Hi there,

I'm currently looking to purchase another jeep. I had a 95 YJ for years about 10 yrs ago and looking to get back into one again as I miss it! In any case, how much rust is too much? Looked at a 2002 TJ today and floor pan on passenger side only had rust and windshield frame inside seemed particurily bad. What kind of cost is it to replace both those things? Otherwise everything else seemed great. Pics attached. Any advice greatly appreciated! :)

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
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Hi there,

I'm currently looking to purchase another jeep. I had a 95 YJ for years about 10 yrs ago and looking to get back into one again as I miss it! In any case, how much rust is too much? Looked at a 2002 TJ today and floor pan on passenger side only had rust and windshield frame inside seemed particurily bad. What kind of cost is it to replace both those things? Otherwise everything else seemed great. Pics attached. Any advice greatly appreciated! :)

Stay away from that thing, trust me. That rust by the window frame is common, but if you're really in the market for a TJ, take your time and find one that is rust free. Rust is like cancer, and it doesn't stop spreading.
 
Stay away from that thing, trust me. That rust by the window frame is common, but if you're really in the market for a TJ, take your time and find one that is rust free. Rust is like cancer, and it doesn't stop spreading.

Thanks Chris. That's what I thought too. Not wanting to get into a money pit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Chris. That's what I thought too. Not wanting to get into a money pit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely avoid rust at all costs. It's a huge money pit, and it will completely tank the re-sale value of your TJ, should you ever want to sell it.

If you buy a clean TJ without rust, you may pay a little more, but it will hold it's value really, really well. There's plenty of rust free TJs out there, so keep your eyes open. You don't want to get into a rusted vehicle, it's so much time, money and effort to fix it the right way.
 
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Thanks Chris. They definitely hold their value. I'm in Toronto, Canada as well so prices seem a little higher this way but I'm hopeful that I'll find something if I keep looking. Looking for something between 96-2006 (price depending of course). Won't be a daily driver as I subway to work and back but still don't want a money pit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Yep, it's worth spending more money to find one rust free. Because I guarantee if you get one with rust, you'll end up dumping way more money into it.
 
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Depending on the year windshield frames are not that expensive. I have replaced several.
 
Depending on the year windshield frames are not that expensive. I have replaced several.

Thanks stinger. Windshield I wasn't as worried about as I know that could be solved, but floor and frame? Yah, bit scary as don't want to get into a money pit when I don't even need a car. Hoping to find something better somewhere in or near Toronto!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There are rust free vehicles to be found, but maybe not in the central part of the continent.o_O