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What synthetic rope should I get?

tomtaylz

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Just starting to read up on synthetic rope for my winch.

I want to get a thimble and all that also. I have a warm I believe older style m8000 which was installed when I got it (not 100% sure). Don’t really know much about it.

What characteristics are there to look out when comparing synthetic brands. Anything on sale for Black Friday?

What procedures are there when switching from cable to synthetic? Should I replace the Fairlead? (I have a warn hawse steel fairlead which I put on recently and have not operated the which while it’s been on.

What could I potentially sell the cable for?

C4E012BC-D760-4CD1-A6C6-2F078E2DEAF6.jpeg
 
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CodaMan

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Boinked

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The M8000 is the same no matter the line. I removed my steel and replaced it with rope and have had zero problems.

I did not know. That about Warn. A few other manufacturers have different drums for the synthetic version. Thats why i posted that link. It doesn't say dont do it. Just what to look for before doing it. Its all ways better to have more information than not enough.
 

Jerry Bransford

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3/8" is what you want but 80' is the max length for your M8000.

Heat is not an issue for synthetic rope for how we typically use our winches. The internal brake is what generates the heat but the brake is not used when winching in the normal 'in' direction. The brake is only used when under load in the reverse/out direction. Like if you were lowering yourself or someone else backwards down over a cliff. That's not a situation I've ever found myself in or ever seen on the trail.
 
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Boinked

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3/8" is what you want but 80' is the max length for your M8000.

Heat is not an issue for how we typically use our winches. The internal brake is what generates the heat but the brake is not used when winching in the normal 'in' direction. The brake is only used when under load in the reverse/out direction. Like if you were lowering yourself or someone else backwards down over a cliff.
Good to know
 
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tomtaylz

tomtaylz

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3/8" is what you want but 80' is the max length for your M8000.

Heat is not an issue for how we typically use our winches. The internal brake is what generates the heat but the brake is not used when winching in the normal 'in' direction. The brake is only used when under load in the reverse/out direction. Like if you were lowering yourself or someone else backwards down over a cliff.
Gotcha I’ll look tomorrow double check that’s what the winch is.
 
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tomtaylz

tomtaylz

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What attributes besides just thickness should I look out for when comparing rope brands?
 

mrblaine

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What attributes besides just thickness should I look out for when comparing rope brands?
Avoid the thin stainless thimbles. Avoid the heavy tube thimbles if you plan on an aluminum fairlead. Rope should be 3/8" and watch the bargain brands. They use a lower strength fiber so the breaking strength is lower for the same diameters. You're looking for something in the 19-20ish thousand pound range in 3/8". Avoid the tubular abrasion guards, they aren't. If you can't find a rope without one, remove it before installation. Avoid Warn ropes. They have a very bulky guard and the length will need to be cut down. We've been cutting 20 feet off.
 
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tomtaylz

tomtaylz

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Avoid the thin stainless thimbles. Avoid the heavy tube thimbles if you plan on an aluminum fairlead. Rope should be 3/8" and watch the bargain brands. They use a lower strength fiber so the breaking strength is lower for the same diameters. You're looking for something in the 19-20ish thousand pound range in 3/8". Avoid the tubular abrasion guards, they aren't. If you can't find a rope without one, remove it before installation. Avoid Warn ropes. They have a very bulky guard and the length will need to be cut down. We've been cutting 20 feet off.
Thanks Blaine, any brands besides the above TRE that you'd recommend looking into?
 
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tomtaylz

tomtaylz

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I am friends with the owner. I invented and improved the Safety Thimble over the years, I run nothing but TRE products. What do you think I'm going to say? ;)
Sounds good I’ll probably go with them!

This the identifier on my winch I’m pretty sure it’s of the m8000 series after some googling.

E40665F3-CB25-4B60-B066-D89A831340BA.jpeg


I sent a message to warn also.
 
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FireJeep

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I have one with a no name Dyneema, it is ok, the other has MasterPull XD Superline, it is really nice stuff, very durable and 26,500 breaking strength....
 

Mud dauber

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“Dyneema” brand name rope is made in the USA by Samson Rope. Search for them online. They have a excellent site full of information about their ropes. 3/8” Dyneema is the first and last name you need to know for static synthetic rope used as winch rope. Static rope has very little stretch to it under load. It is very light and will float. The downside to this type of rope is abrasion. If you are rubbing this rope against rock the rope will not like that. You can protect your rope when it against rope with a rash guard to help prevent abrasive damage. The major advantage to synthetic rope is the safety factor it has if it would break during use.

There are fiber core, steel cable outer covering for greater flexibility and easy handling. This cable resists abrasion. This type of cable is popular in the towing industry. It is probably what I will use. B/A Products out of Hollywood, FL produces super quality fiber core and all steel cable. Along with other manufacturers.

A dynamic rope we use to tug a vehicle out of a hole. It is made of double braided nylon. The rope for this job should have close to 3 times the breaking strength compared the size of the vehicle you are pulling out. A Jeep loaded to 5000 lbs would be matched to a rope with 15000 lbs breaking strength. Why you ask, the dynamic stretch is a 3/1 ratio is enough strength and stretch (kenetic energy) to act like a rubber band to pull the stuck vehicle out. A 30 foot rope is a good length as it distributes the load better than a shorter rope.
 
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