What type of oil do you use?

Amsoil, Amway, hmmm! Sounds similar.

I made the switch to synthetic in all my vehicles a couple years ago when I could get Schaffer's oil free at work.
Now I usually run Mobil 1, but after reading about the iron compounds, I may change.
 
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My grandfather who worked for Mobil all his life, and a co-worker who worked for Shell, explained to me that synthetic oils are indeed superior to conventional oils.

However, you never get the full life of synthetic oil because you have to change it every 5,000 miles anyway (even though, technically speaking with synthetic oils you should be able to run and engine for well over that 5,000 mile mark).

So, they told me to not waste my money on synthetic oils. Because you'd never get the full value out of it anyway.

And for what's it's worth, I use Valvoline Max 10W-30. Because I want to increase the longevity of all of my seals in my engine, and my service manual said I should run 10W-30.
And I run Wix oil filters.


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I use Royal Purple HPS+. It's a special order from O'Reillys and costs the same as the regular RP. The HPS+ is zinc fortified which is something our engines really like. I highly recommend it along with the Royal Purple filter. RP guarantees 12k mile oil change intervals.

I've done a lot of reading on it and the lack of zinc in all the other oils is not a good thing for our old school 4.0 engines.
 
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You have succumbed to Amsoil's misleading oil life claims... what you don't realize by not changing your oil at the intervals recommended by Jeep is that your oil FILTER gets just as dirty as with any oil and you're leaving it in past its useful life. Engine oil picks up dirt, contaminants, naturally occurring acids, combustion byproducts etc. at the same rate no matter what the quality of the oil is. By leaving the oil filter in 2X as long as it should be you're asking for the filter to go into bypass mode.

I don't care HOW good an oil is, it still needs to be changed at the engine manufacturer's recommended intervals. Amsoil misleads their customers on a lot of things like that. They're laughing all the way to the bank thanks to the snakes in their marketing and sales department.

As stated above, Royal Purple has a 12k mile interval "guarantee" (whatever that means). I haven't even put 12k miles on my LJR since I've had it and I've changed the oil three times with the Royal Purple HPS+ zinc fortified oil.

It doesn't seem like a good profitable marketing scheme to tell your customers to buy less oil.
 
It doesn't seem like a good profitable marketing scheme to tell your customers to buy less oil.

That's where they've got you, with their marketing scheme.

You're paying more money per quart for oil, but running it twice as long. Same thing as paying less money per quart and running it 6k miles... ya know?

Trust me, these marketing guys know how to fool us.

It's like the BOGO sales... They convince you that if you buy one you get one free. Not so fast... They've factored the price of two into one, so that way you're paying them for both, you just think you're getting one free.

But hey... Who am I to tell anyone what oil to run to not to run? People can run whatever they want. I just know that I use the regular stuff like @Jerry Bransford is using, and I use it in all my vehicles (and have for hundreds of thousands of miles) and never had an issue.

Modern day engines rarely fail due to internal issues (especially oil related issues). They typically fail due to electronic sensors and accessories going bad (i.e. batteries).
 
That's where they've got you, with their marketing scheme.

You're paying more money per quart for oil, but running it twice as long. Same thing as paying less money per quart and running it 6k miles... ya know?

Trust me, these marketing guys know how to fool us.

It's like the BOGO sales... They convince you that if you buy one you get one free. Not so fast... They've factored the price of two into one, so that way you're paying them for both, you just think you're getting one free.

But hey... Who am I to tell anyone what oil to run to not to run? People can run whatever they want. I just know that I use the regular stuff like @Jerry Bransford is using, and I use it in all my vehicles (and have for hundreds of thousands of miles) and never had an issue.

Modern day engines rarely fail due to internal issues (especially oil related issues). They typically fail due to electronic sensors and accessories going bad (i.e. batteries).

But that guy on the TV says "BUT WAIT!" and then they offer more stuff.

He wouldn't say "BUT WAIT!" like he does unless it was a surprise to him too.
 
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As stated above, Royal Purple has a 12k mile interval "guarantee" (whatever that means). I haven't even put 12k miles on my LJR since I've had it and I've changed the oil three times with the Royal Purple HPS+ zinc fortified oil.

It doesn't seem like a good profitable marketing scheme to tell your customers to buy less oil.
As Chris said, and again as already said above, it's nothing more than smart marketing. They can honestly say the oil ITSELF is good for that long. But Amsoil doesn't have a lock even on that.

What Amsoil is counting on is people not being smart enough to know that one of oil's job is to collect dirt, naturally occurring combustion byproducts and acids, etc. and no oil filter is capable of filtering all of that out.

In other words, Amsoil's oil gets dirty at the same rate as Walmart oil does. And again, no oil filter can filter all the crap out, especially the harmful acids and combustion byproducts. The only way to get rid of all that dirt is to change the oil... at the interval recommended by Jeep. Don't succumb to their misleading marketing bullshit.
 
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From the get go I have run Castrol full syn 100% and Fram filters about 99%. My 03 Silverado is at 155,00 trouble free miles, my 08 Honda Fit is at 330,000 trouble free miles. They both get changed around 7500-8000 miles; that is about when the change oil indicator lights up. Both were purchased brand new.

Our 13 Kia Sorento runs Castrol dino only because it came with a service plan and that is what the dealer uses. They also use a Kia branded filter. It is running like a top at 80K + miles, we bought it used with 19K.

The TJ is too new to me but I bought it with 101K and started running Castrol full syn it it.

We also run that "low end" Arco gas about 99% of the time.:D
 
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Every 3K miles only started with the quick lube joints like Jiffy Lube trying to maximize their income. Every 5k is my interval and that will only be reduced if I have been wheeling in exceptionally dusty conditions.

Keep in mind that oil change intervals should be the same for conventional and synthetic motor oils since, as described above, the engine contaminates synthetic and conventional oils at the same rate. The oil filter gets dirty at the same rate too. Synthetic may theoretically last longer but it still gets dirty at the same rate. Oil filters can't filter out the really fine stuff or the naturally occurring combustion byproducts, acids, etc..

I agree with Jerry. I do oil changes every 5,000 miles and never had an issue and run my cars to 200,000 miles
 
I've always used Mobil 1 5w-30 in most of my vehicles, including the Jeep.
I am getting ready to switch my wife's car and the Jeep over to high mileage oil on the next change because both have over 80k on the clock.
While we are on the subject of oil, why is it that all the auto parts stores are so much higher in price on oil than places like Wal-mart and even Meijer's? I know Walmart has buying power, therefore get things cheaper, but there are a shit ton of Autozones, Oreilly's etc out there so they have to have the same buying power.
I kind of feel guilty taking my used oil to Autozone when I never buy the oil there, but I do buy my filters there because walmart only carries Fram.
 
So went with valvoline 10-30 and did the oil change today. Went to take the oil cap off again to clean the head cover and oil cap won't come off. I was reading this is a common problem and to just pop the plastic off with a screw driver and use channel locks. Should I just get a new cap?


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So went with valvoline 10-30 and did the oil change today. Went to take the oil cap off again to clean the head cover and oil cap won't come off. I was reading this is a common problem and to just pop the plastic off with a screw driver and use channel locks. Should I just get a new cap?


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Try a big oversize set of channel locks/water pump pliers and squeeze the top of the cap hard so it can't ratchet, then try opening it with the pliers.
 
Switched oil last week from Rotella T6 5w40 / Mopar oil filter to Quaker State Defy 10w30 ($10 5qt jug special) / Wix oil filter. TJ is running much smoother and a little quieter now, we'll see how this combination performs.
 
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