What type of paint to use for my DIY bumper?

TJim

TJim

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Hey guys!

I would like your advice on a paint job.

I will prepare my bumper, then use primer. My question is what type of black paint would you use to paint a rear bumper?

This is somes photo of my new DIY rear bumper right now:

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I have always had great luck using Rustoleum self-etching primer followed by a coat or two or Rustoleum satin black.

Make sure to adhere to the timing requirements shown on the label for subsequent coats. Adding subsequent coats at the wrong time will cause them to craze.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I have always had great luck using Rustoleum self-etching primer followed by a coat or two or Rustoleum satin black.

Make sure to adhere to the timing requirements shown on the label for subsequent coats. Adding subsequent coats at the wrong time will cause them to craze.
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Τhanks for the tip Jerry.

Excuse my ignorance, but I see that they are quite cheap. How is the longevity/endurance of the Rustoleum satin black?
 
If you can get farm implement or tractor paint where you are that's great stuff for this. I roll on the paint now, it leaves a great texture and goes on thick. It costs a fraction of rattle can and makes a fraction of the mess. I use rustoleum professional semi-gloss black, a quart can will cover all the armor you can think of. Obviously if you paint a skid that gets damaged you aren't going to prime it every time it gets scraped down to the metal, at least I don't know anybody that does. I just skip the primer all together and haven't had an issue but do whatever you feel comfortable with. After a few seasons a good fraction of my skids are just bare metal with the paint over it and I don't have issues. I use all my steel armor and bumpers pretty hard so I'm often touching up here and there, if you are easy on yours it is probably worth investing more in it.
 
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This is what I use on everything. It is a good bit more expensive (as far as rattle cans go) but it is catalyzed which makes a tremendous difference in strength and longevity. It also looks amazing when it’s done. Consider it a good halfway point between acrylic based rattle cans and powder coating.

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HornedToad said:
This is what I use on everything. It is a good bit more expensive (as far as rattle cans go) but it is catalyzed which makes a tremendous difference in strength and longevity. It also looks amazing when it’s done. Consider it a good halfway point between acrylic based rattle cans and powder coating.

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I wondered what you consider expensive, those two cans in the UK would cost US$100. Which seems crazy expensive to me.
 
UKTJ said:
I wondered what you consider expensive, those two cans in the UK would cost US$100. Which seems crazy expensive to me.
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Oh dang! They are about half that much here. Paint and primer like that is a lot cheaper if you buy it in normal pint or quart sized cans and already have a spray gun setup. The reason they cost more is because there is a catalyst chamber inside each spray can that you puncture with a little button on the bottom when you are ready to use it.
 
A good self etch primer some decent black spray paint and then cover it in trans tart black chipguard it’s the most rugged shit I’ve used out of a spray can. I’m in the northeast and it’s held up really well on multiple parts.
 
Rattle can it with Rustoleum. Will last darn near forever if you do a good job AND don't scratch it on anything. If you scratch it, it doesn't matter what you painted it with. I'm not a particular fan of powder coating - unless its done EXACTLY right, water will often get under it from sharp corners, and wreak havoc. Regular paint doesn't seem to have that problem in my experience.
 
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Most places that powder coat don’t use a zinc powder coat under the finish coat. It makes a huge difference.
 
Wtrask said:
A good self etch primer some decent black spray paint and then cover it in trans tart black chipguard it’s the most rugged shit I’ve used out of a spray can. I’m in the northeast and it’s held up really well on multiple parts.
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Is the chipguard SEM? The only trans tarts I've seen are in Hollywood when I get off work late at night.
 
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pagrey said:
Is the chipguard SEM? The only trans tarts I've seen are in Hollywood when I get off work late at night.
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Transtar texcoat black chip guard. Spendy stuff at $25/can but I'm going to give it a try in the wheel wells of my new fenders. I've also had good luck with Napa #4004 stone guard black from their Martin Senour paint line, actually made by sherwinn williams.
 
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