What type of vehicle is needed to tow a Jeep?
- Thread starter jazngab
- Start date
I have a Roadmaster Sterling towbar with the adapters to attach directly to the recovery eyelets on the bumper. I have a 4 inch offset hitch adapter which I install in the GC hitch and the towbar plugs into that. I have a built-in auxiliary braking system in the TJ. That and the tail lights are controlled through the standard 7-pin connector on the GC. The GC is rated for 6700 lbs towing. My normal tow vehicle is an F350 with camper and the set up is the same. It works very well with either vehicle.
OP
I don’t believe I trust my Acadia to tow AND brake safely. I don’t need to tow the Jeep that bad yet as it’s capable of some highway travel.
I think that vehicle is much more equipped to tow than mine is
I thought about that
As far as being towed, the GVWR of my LJ doesn't matter. Weight is weight. The tow rig doesn't care about the GVWR of the tow'd.
As for my LJ towing something else, the factory GVWR becomes an interesting factoid from the past when tires, springs, shocks, control arms, steering, brakes, gears, etc. are all changed from OEM to aftermarket. GVWR has changed due to the heavier duty components but to what number no one knows for sure except perhaps an automotive engineer with the know-how to make new calculations and enough new data to make them. Then there is the built-in "design" or "safety" factor to consider (or not).
My conclusion has been to play it safe when my LJ is towing something else by reducing the 3,000# factory tow capacity rating of my LJ by 868# (the increase in my actual curb weight over the factory published number), netting an adjusted tow capacity of 2,132# - still 900# more than the weight of my fully loaded Bantam T3-C trailer. Even if I were to reduce the adjusted towing capacity another 460# (the weight of gear, extra fuel & water, tools, spares, etc. in the fully loaded jeep when not towing a trailer) I would still have sufficient tow capacity.
Getting back to towing TJ's, I still think the general rule of assuming 5000-6000# for flat towing and no less than 7500# for towing on a trailer is a good rule of thumb for an initial evaluation of the suitability of various tow rigs.
I thought about that
As far as being towed, the GVWR of my LJ doesn't matter. Weight is weight. The tow rig doesn't care about the GVWR of the tow'd.
As for my LJ towing something else, the factory GVWR becomes an interesting factoid from the past when tires, springs, shocks, control arms, steering, brakes, gears, etc. are all changed from OEM to aftermarket. GVWR has changed due to the heavier duty components but to what number no one knows for sure except perhaps an automotive engineer with the know-how to make new calculations and enough new data to make them. Then there is the built-in "design" or "safety" factor to consider (or not).
Not to argue but because it is an interesting discussion, I think gvwr is just the max weight that is safe to put in a vehicle. You can't increase it with different springs, brakes, gears or other parts. Does lifting the Jeep and bigger tires raise or lower the gvwr? Really has nothing to do with towing other than if you flat tow a Jeep that is overweight it's just like towing an overloaded trailer. The part I was pointing out is that it is funny how people pick and choose what safety items they want to consider, I mean why pay attention to tow ratings and not cargo ratings? If you are going to overload your Jeep why not overload the tow vehicle? Just an observation, like I said I find it curious. Not trying to be critical at all, I do the same things.
GVWR is a number published by the manufacturer. By definition it cannot change because it is the manufacturer's rating of a stock vehicle. I probably should have used a different term, but the concept I was alluding to was that increasing capacities of various parts can change the weight carrying capability of a vehicle as a whole, but calculating that change in capability requires someone with skills and knowledge well above my pay grade.
There is no "minimum. You need to scale the Jeep or Jeep plus Trailer and buy something rated to tow that. IF you flat tow the Jeep without brakes, you need a vehicle rated to do that. Most likely wether you flat tow or trailer it you should have brakes. BUT you need to buy the vehicle RATED to do the job. Just saying buy a "....." is no guarantee that "...." will be rated to do the job. Towing is all about gearing, transmission choice, engine, an F150 with a 2.7 EcoTech and 3.57 ratio will not have the same rating as an identical F150 with a 5.0L and 4.10 ratio.
Every vehicle has a Spec Rating what you can tow.
Honestly, a trailer with brakes is the simplest way to tow. When you flat tow you cannot back up. Flat towing means you need brake/signal wiring, maybe an active braking system, the tow bar etc. If you tow on a trailer,,,,, and you break yer Jeep off roading,,,,, you can just drag it onto the trailer and go.
Flat towing is best suited behind a motorhome when commuting to the next campground. Depends on your needs but flat towing to a back country campground takes a special mentality.
Also towing regulations are a State thing so check what your own State requirements are.
In California you need brakes at 1500#. In Alaska you can tow up to 5000# without brakes.
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NB you cannot tow a Wrangler on a dolly.
Read the Owners Manual
4up or 4down
edit ....
If you use a dolly, I believe you must drop the rear driveshaft
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I've read this and wonder why. If you can flat tow why not on a dolly?
If you dropped rear driveshaft and towed on a dolly I would think you are OK.
In 1982, the answer to OP's question would be an A-body wagon w/ helper springs and a tow bar.
If I were in the market for a trailer for a short wheelbase TJ I would look at 16'.
I once towed my CJ-7 from California to Moab and back on a 14' trailer. It worked fine, although I remember observing at the time that it was barely long enough. Since a stock CJ-7 is 8" shorter than a stock TJ, I think 16' would be a better choice.
My question today would be: Is 16' is long enough for my LJ? If so, would it be "barely long enough" just as that 14' trailer was barely long enough for my CJ-7?
That would have been the same answer in 1966, except it would be a Chrysler Town and Country station wagon with 440 c.i. 350 hp V-8 with a 10.0:1 compression ratio, 4 barrel carb and dual exhausts.
Ask me how I know.
I bought mine thinking I would buy one big enough to tow a JKU if needed.
My trailer has a 12ft bed and 4 ft dovetail. In the photo above I have the jeeps rear axle sitting on the portion that separates the dovetail/deck portion of the trailer.
I stole a photo from @ac_ of this 18ft trailer.
You have a pretty good height difference on your tow bar. It should be kept to within 3 inches. It looks like yours is close to a foot.
When I was researching this earlier in the summer, the price of flat towing a vehicle properly was similar to the cost of buying a good used trailer? I’m seeing used trailers in my area go for around $1500 for a 16ft , 7k, wood deck trailer with brakes.
The GMC might be okay if set up to tow properly. Trailer brake controller , air lift helper bags, and extra tranny cooler... what’s the towing capacity?
I towed a 18ft Big Tex trailer with full metal decking and a lifted CJ7 on it for 200 hundred miles with a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 318. The truck didn’t have a trailer brake controller nor did I consult a manual about towing capacity or think about because I was 19 at the time. Looking back, I bet the trailer with 6” frame rails surpassed the towing capacity lol.
I didn’t even know it was back there the entire trip. I just kept it at 60 and minded my own business in the slow lane.
Being older and wiser I’d be scared shitless to do that now without consulting sage advice from someone and wearing a diaper
The GMC might be okay if set up to tow properly. Trailer brake controller , air lift helper bags, and extra tranny cooler... what’s the towing capacity?
I towed a 18ft Big Tex trailer with full metal decking and a lifted CJ7 on it for 200 hundred miles with a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 318. The truck didn’t have a trailer brake controller nor did I consult a manual about towing capacity or think about because I was 19 at the time. Looking back, I bet the trailer with 6” frame rails surpassed the towing capacity lol.
I didn’t even know it was back there the entire trip. I just kept it at 60 and minded my own business in the slow lane.
Being older and wiser I’d be scared shitless to do that now without consulting sage advice from someone and wearing a diaper