Wheel stud vs grade 8 bolt

Lonewolf

Lonewolf

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 4, 2019
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297
Location
Pittsburg, CA
I was retorquing my lug nuts after installing the new studs with my new axles about 50 miles ago and found that 3 of them were loose. I ended up having to cut them off because I couldn’t loosen or tighten them as they just spun. The problem was it was at my tire shop where we don’t have any bays to pull into so I was stuck. I grabbed some grade 8 1/2 x20 bolts and got it back together and everything seems fine. Should I leave it? I searched the internet and I couldn’t find any definitive either way. Also these are thread in wheel studs in a revolution axle.
 
I would get the correct studs installed. Odd that a tire shop didn't have the ability to install studs. No idea why the new axle stud holes did not fit. Was it the axle or the stud? Something sounds wrong.
 
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Flivver250 said:
I would get the correct studs installed. Odd that a tire shop didn't have the ability to install studs. No idea why the new axle stud holes did not fit. Was it the axle or the stud? Something sounds wrong.
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It’s a shop that I manage and we only do commercial truck tires no mechanical I was only there to use the torque wrench when everything went to shit. no one local has the correct studs in stock and that is why I used the grade 8 bolts . I don’t think I used enough lock tight because they backed out about 1/4 inch.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Remember to only use red/permanent Loctite on thread-in wheel studs.
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Yea that what I did on the replacements but I’m still trying to figure out if studs are any different than the grade 8 bolts . They both have the same 6 lines on top and the thicker head on the bolt doesn’t interfere with anything. My only hold up is in order to replace them I would have to pull the shafts again . The replacement studs are much longer and cannot be snaked in without pulling the shaft
 
Lonewolf said:
Thanks, that’s what I was thinking as well
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The problem is how close the threads are rolled to the underside of the head and how deep the threaded hole in the flange has been chamfered. If the bolts bottom out on the threads, it doesn't matter how much thread locker you slather on, the forces from driving on the tire will pull on the studs and work them in deeper. That will loosen them to the point where if you try to tighten them and the lug nut or stud has a burr on the threads, it will screw the stud inward. I've seen them go in far enough to wipe out the parking brake hardware and wad all that stuff up.
 
mrblaine said:
The problem is how close the threads are rolled to the underside of the head and how deep the threaded hole in the flange has been chamfered. If the bolts bottom out on the threads, it doesn't matter how much thread locker you slather on, the forces from driving on the tire will pull on the studs and work them in deeper. That will loosen them to the point where if you try to tighten them and the lug nut or stud has a burr on the threads, it will screw the stud inward. I've seen them go in far enough to wipe out the parking brake hardware and wad all that stuff up.
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They bottomed out on the head of the bolt. But would it be safer to add a washer to be sure or pull everything back apart and put in longer studs
 
Lonewolf said:
They bottomed out on the head of the bolt. But would it be safer to add a washer to be sure or pull everything back apart and put in longer studs
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The low profile wheel studs are typically threaded closer to the head than a normal bolt. If you had a problem with the first ones, I don't know that I would fully trust the next set with similar installation methods. They need a high level of torque on them to keep them in place with the thread locker. How is this install different than the first set?
 
No. Re-read mrblaine. Those regular grade 8 bolts have a champher ar the head to the shaft. Unless you put them on a lathe to remove the champher then all the stress is located at that point on the bolt and the axle flange. Are your axles grade 8? They are made to have wheel studs used in them to properly hold the stresses from the wheel/tire. Either the wrong studs were used or the holes are drilled to big. Either way the only safe and correct thing is to either install a slightly larger lug bolts that hold right or drill the holes to fit the next size lug correctly or get new axles whith the correct size hole. Contact whoever made the axles and find out what they are going to do about it.
 
Goatman said:
No. Re-read mrblaine. Those regular grade 8 bolts have a champher ar the head to the shaft. Unless you put them on a lathe to remove the champher then all the stress is located at that point on the bolt and the axle flange. Are your axles grade 8? They are made to have wheel studs used in them to properly hold the stresses from the wheel/tire. Either the wrong studs were used or the holes are drilled to big. Either way the only safe and correct thing is to either install a slightly larger lug bolts that hold right or drill the holes to fit the next size lug correctly or get new axles whith the correct size hole. Contact whoever made the axles and find out what they are going to do about it.
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He is using a screw in stud. The only problem may be the installation method and whether or not the chamfer around the threaded hole in the flange is deep enough to allow the bolt head to contact the back side of the flange properly.
 
mrblaine said:
The low profile wheel studs are typically threaded closer to the head than a normal bolt. If you had a problem with the first ones, I don't know that I would fully trust the next set with similar installation methods. They need a high level of torque on them to keep them in place with the thread locker. How is this install different than the first set?
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I dont think I got enough torque on them originally , So I will pull everything back apart and install studs. And for future reference would a lock washer not work, wouldnt that make it bottom on the bottom of the bolt washer and not the chamfer?
 
Lonewolf said:
I dont think I got enough torque on them originally , So I will pull everything back apart and install studs. And for future reference would a lock washer not work, wouldnt that make it bottom on the bottom of the bolt washer and not the chamfer?
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There are very few applications on a TJ that lock washers are appropriate. Starter power stud, pitman arm, and little more. Screw in wheel studs are not an appropriate application. Proper torque, correct chamfers, high strength thread locking compound on clean threads always works.
 
mrblaine said:
There are very few applications on a TJ that lock washers are appropriate. Starter power stud, pitman arm, and little more. Screw in wheel studs are not an appropriate application. Proper torque, correct chamfers, high strength thread locking compound on clean threads always works.
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Ok thank you
 
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