Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Where to get 12V power (2002 TJ bastard)

Ok if you look at my pic where I am pointing at a tap into my PDC, that slot is hot in run. If I recall this was for a heated 02 sensor relay for CA models. So you can connect your GPR wire #1 there if there are connectors in your 2002, mine is a 2000. (the red wire you see was used for after market DRLs).

Then find the wire that triggers your starter relay and connect your GPR wire #2 to that . I suspect that second circuit is there to keep the GPR timer from re-setting itself when cranking as it would lose power from the run circuit during cranking, causing it to initiate another timed cycle once the engine starts.

Another thing I would do is connect an LED to your GPR output and run it to the dash so you'll know just when the GPs are on and when they are off. This can prevent a mishap where the GPs stay on and eventually overheat and burn out at the least, or disintegrate and drop pieces into the cylinders at worse.

View attachment 555166

ahhh. so could attach the second wire down at the starer solenoid at the wire that gets hot on Start/Crank.

Getting closer. Appreciate immensely.
 
@B1Toad so from that site. in a 5pin 30 should be full time +12v and either 87 gets switched by the other pins... I got two relays in the box that are full power at the outer most 87. will go back to see which ones so I dont speak wrong. I guess those actually switch the negative??

Anyway. apparently I dont want to tap those anyway. that site says 5 pin are for low draw. for the GP maybe I need high draw? which takes me to the 4 pin HBL (whatever that is/was) and the blank one listed on the cover. which I assume means there is nothing there. Just dont know if either of them are switched by key.

This is where the confusion is coming in. If you're trying to get GP power it needs to come from the battery, I thought you said it already had power and the #1 & #2 wires were just for coil switching, to switch the GP relay on, not to power the GPs? You need 2 circuits, a heavy one to power the glow plugs and a small one to switch the relay and allow the heavy circuit to connect to the GPs.
 
This is where the confusion is coming in. If you're trying to get GP power it needs to come from the battery, I thought you said it already had power and the #1 & #2 wires were just for coil switching, to switch the GP relay on, not to power the GPs? You need 2 circuits, a heavy one to power the glow plugs and a small one to switch the relay and allow the heavy circuit to connect to the GPs.

a different thread elsewhere mentioned that the PDF should have the RED as switched with key.. AND the Red/Black with key too. but that only makes sense if that is the crank wire.

Ok. Ill drop out here for awhile and re-research how that MB relay works. Been hard to get replies to clarify things.
 

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I don't see where you need one to connect during start, just run. Red to battery and red w/black stripe to the slot in my picture should do it. If they glow for another cycle after the engine starts it won't hurt anything if they are 12 volt GPs. It probably has a temperature sensor to determine glow time and afterglow time to reduce startup smoke.
 
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If you connect the red w/black stripe to the pdc though you should fuse it. The reason you don't need to fuse the battery power lead is because the GP harness is made up with fusible links.
 
yes. it was already in it (why I bought it) am now putting rebuilt OM617A. Unfortuantely all the tags I put on wires to mark what is what/goes where- faded over the winter.

I know that its non-trivial to swap in a an OM617A, apparently because of the double oil pan that engine has. I have an '85 300SD with that engine - love it!
 
I know that its non-trivial to swap in a an OM617A, apparently because of the double oil pan that engine has. I have an '85 300SD with that engine - love it!

Doomsday diesel sells oil pan/new pick up tube that solves that. Or like the person who built mine who did a 3" body lift allowing for installed engine mounts high enough to not have clearance issue with OEM oil pan. .Toyota Conversions are more popular and there is nooo getting around needing to change oil pan and pickup tube... but since that is an available product... easy peasy.
 
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getting closer.... that video posted yesterday has really pulled this together in my head so much more.

Anyway....... is this spot "run" only? as in does it kick off at "Crank" I assume so.


R

Not sure but easy enough to check if you have a test light.
 
Not sure but easy enough to check if you have a test light.

yup... yesterday took some time to make a fairly nice male blade to pop in a female just for that. Spot to let me alligator it so can run extension wires into cab and put multimeter in there with me for viewing or hold a probe needle tight enough without me holding it so can turn key and peak around hood to see if test light goes off......... ... thennnnnn promptly dropped in the grass and dirt and lost it...... grrrrrrrrrrr....
 
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A circuit screamer can come in handy when working alone, they come is 12 volt and 120 volt. The Ace by me was getting rid of these for $2

circuit screamer.jpg
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator