Which RS5000X shocks for 2.5 inch lift?

Damn, and here all this time I’m thinking this rubber part connecting to the top is the bump stop.

Looks like I may hand my terminology wrong.

So to clarify, bump stops are only the hockey puck-like piece that bolts to the lower spring perch.

If that’s the case then I don’t have any.
 
Im not seeing any bump stop extensions in there, just the jaunce bumper and cup. So I’d guess the PO never adjusted them (or maybe that wasn’t necessary up front).
He’s got an extended bumpstop above the cup. OP, as you can see, due to coil arch, when you articulate the cup rubs the spring. This is all wrong. The bumpstop should be on the lower perch. To place it there you’ll need to tap the perch, cycle suspension, decide what shocks and how much bump. Likely you’ll need the 0-2”
 
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Took some measurements today in preparation for changing out these shocks. Before I start removing springs and cycling the front end I need some clarification on my measurements. To determine the compressed length requirement, do I measure to the bottom of the jounce bumper cup or the jounce bumper itself?

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Took some measurements today in preparation for changing out these shocks. Before I start removing springs and cycling the front end I need some clarification on my measurements. To determine the compressed length requirement, do I measure to the bottom of the jounce bumper cup or the jounce bumper itself?

View attachment 140259
You will measure from the bottom of the cup. The jounce bumper will compress in to the cup on compression.
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So in my case, just considering compressed length, a shock would hit the jounce bumper at a compressed length of 14.5" and bottom out at 12.75".

considering Rancho's specs for it's front shocks:
(2"-3" lift), RS55239: 14.43" - this one would bottom out right about when it touches the jounce bumper
(0"-2" lift), RS55128: 13..05" - this would be safe

I know there's more to it than just this variable but it looks like I'd be better off just going with the shorter shock. Otherwise I'd be looking at adding 1.75" or so of additional bump stop, correct?
 
here's a side by side of my existing vs a Rancho 239. extended length is identical at 24" however, my existing has a shorter compressed length due to to the 1.5" rubber bumper. It's almost as if it's a "built in" bump stop to allow for longer extension but limiting the compressed??
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0E8A6650-D74F-4F9E-9265-E61F8D1EDCC3.jpeg
 
here's a side by side of my existing vs a Rancho 239. extended length is identical at 24" however, my existing has a shorter compressed length due to to the 1.5" rubber bumper. It's almost as if it's a "built in" bump stop to allow for longer extension but limiting the compressed??
View attachment 140271


View attachment 140270
I have a habit of cutting off those shaft mounted rubber bumps - they are a bad way for the shocks to “self bump” or “self protect” all while losing available travel. Seems like you’re on the right path. What you’re most likely looking for is the longest length shock you can run with the least amount of bumpstop. When you cycle the suspension (with tires on and tires off) you’ll be able to see what’s called “hard bump” (take the foam piece out of the upper cup). Once you see hard bump you can measure the shock mount bottom to top and see the maximum compressed length you can run without adding additional bump. If you are dead set on running a longer shock than maximum up travel allows - you can add in hockey puck bump stops on the lower pad to keep them safe.
 
I have 2 1/2" OME springs. Ordered the 0-2" Ranchos from info learned here. They ended up being an almost perfect 50/50 at ride height. Like within 1/2" from perfect 50/50. So I would definitely recommend them for your Jeep.
I originally installed the 2-3" shocks on my 2.5" lift and swapped them out for the 0-2" and I'm much happier.

How much actual lift did your lifts gave you?