Which track bar do I need for my LJ?

ejrobert

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Dec 22, 2020
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Southern Pines, NC
Hello, I'm relatively new to the forum and this is my first post asking a question, so please be gentle. BLUF: Which track bar do I need in order to replace the one I have? I've already ordered the wrong one (with ball joint, doesn't work for my setup, rookie mistake). I'll be returning that one but want to get it right this time.

I am upgrading because I am also doing the control arms and the steering linkage due to worn bushings and ball joints. The set up is a 4" lift and about 4-5 years old (installed by prev owner). After several hard rock crawling sessions at Uwharrie Natl Forest I am noticing some wobble and much looser steering than when I bought it. Appreciate any and all advice. Oh, and the pics are immediately after returning from the trails, she's clean now.
LJ Track Bar.jpg
LJ Track Bar D Mount.jpg
LJ Track Bar P Mount.jpg
 
The reason you're having trouble finding a replacement that fits is because an aftermarket "dropped" track bar mount was installed. Dropped just means it lowered/dropped the point at which the track bar is mounted on the driver's side mount. Generally speaking a dropped track bar mount is not a good thing, I'd look into having the dropped mount removed (not easy since it was welded into place) and start using the factory track bar mount again which should still be in place under the aftermarket dropped mount.

If you do that you'll also need to replace the aftermarket dropped-style Pitman arm with the factory non-dropped Pitman arm. The Pitman arm and driver's side track bar must match... both must be dropped or both must be not dropped. If they don't match, bump steer (Google it) is the result.

I had that same combination on my previous TJ and I was glad to finally get rid of it. Once you get back to the OE factory style driver's side track bar mount life will get easier again and you won't have problems finding a replacement track bar again.
 
From your pictures I can see you also has a custom steering. Will be good to pay attention to that if you end up removing the drop pit arm and TB bracket.

That TB looks like RC or RE. If the issue is the clevis looks at Barnes 4x4 website, you may find a replacement.
dirtlife10 is a good cupon code for a 10% discount.
 
From your pictures I can see you also has a custom steering. Will be good to pay attention to that if you end up removing the drop pit arm and TB bracket.

That TB looks like RC or RE. If the issue is the clevis looks at Barnes 4x4 website, you may find a replacement.
dirtlife10 is a good cupon code for a 10% discount.
Thank you for that info. I am new to this so I'm not sure what you mean by the clevis being an issue?

If I go back to factory TB and pitman (which is my intent based on Jerry's observations), what issues do I look out for?
 
Thank you for that info. I am new to this so I'm not sure what you mean by the clevis being an issue?
Clevis is another name for Heim Joints. I was pointing of that was maybe your TB issue.
https://www.barnes4wd.com/78-78-Heim-Joint_c_109.html
If I go back to factory TB and pitman (which is my intent based on Jerry's observations), what issues do I look out for?
Once on that suggested setup, you need to set the TB and drag link parallel. Is there where I saw the next issue if parallelism within the two can’t be accomplish.
 
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When you install the factory Pitman arm and install the new track bar on the original mount, the operating planes of the drag link and track bar will be parallel as required. Providing the passenger sides of both of them are bolted to the factory mounts too.
 
When you install the factory Pitman arm and install the new track bar on the original mount, the operating planes of the drag link and track bar will be parallel as required. Providing the passenger sides of both of them are bolted to the factory mounts too.
Then we can answer which track bar you (OP) should run, tell us about how you use your Jeep. If it’s getting to the mall or running forest roads (no judgement if this is your use) it’s cheaper than building to rock crawl. I don’t know anything about the trail system you linked, so please excuse that if it should tell more than it does to me.

Generically I’d say that for most folks, the JKS adjustable is likely enough.
 
Then we can answer which track bar you (OP) should run, tell us about how you use your Jeep. If it’s getting to the mall or running forest roads (no judgement if this is your use) it’s cheaper than building to rock crawl. I don’t know anything about the trail system you linked, so please excuse that if it should tell more than it does to me.

Generically I’d say that for most folks, the JKS adjustable is likely enough.
The OP mention Uwharrie Natl Park, so not fire roads and definitely not the mall.

I do also think JKS is the way to go but also see nothing wrong with just replace his worn parts on his already build Jeep that he seem having troubles finding it.
 
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The OP mention Uwharrie Natl Park, so not fire roads and definitely not the mall.

I do also think JKS is the way to go but also see nothing wrong with just replace his worn parts on his already build Jeep that he seem having troubles finding it.
In my opinion, a good question doesn’t expect others to do the research. While video doesn’t capture the actual obstacle difficulty, that specific video looked like ridiculous line choice chasing max flex to winch for the views.
 
Uwharrie is rock crawling country and includes two of the most difficult rock trails on the east coast. I’m looking to do those. I have been up to him in a JK, and a 2002 TJ. The JK was built, but the TJ wasn’t really anything special. That trail usually eats TJs if your lines are bad. We lost 3 on Daniel in one weekend due to bad lines and bouncing.

What about a Currie drag link? Would that work with the factory mount setup?
 
The person in that Jeep was fortunate to be driving an automatic which is more forgiving when choosing a bad line of approach for an obstacle.
Some of the lines that where chosen in that video; would most certainly become a problem if they were driving with a manual transmission.
With that said.... that is how you gain experience by learning from your mistakes.
 
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Uwharrie is rock crawling country and includes two of the most difficult rock trails on the east coast. I’m looking to do those. I have been up to him in a JK, and a 2002 TJ. The JK was built, but the TJ wasn’t really anything special. That trail usually eats TJs if your lines are bad. We lost 3 on Daniel in one weekend due to bad lines and bouncing.

What about a Currie drag link? Would that work with the factory mount setup?
Yes, the Currie drag link works on the factory setup. Before you pulled the trigger on it check and be sure the knuckles and pit arm hasn't been re-drilled. Sure this not a big issue but will require some extra work.

My wheeling buddies all use Currie steering lots of likes from them. Mine still on backorder.

Uwharrie is one of those underrated places on the east coast, between Daniel and Dickies Bells can make your day very excited with a quickness.
 
Over 20 years ago I installed the Original Currie HD steering on my '98 XJ (before the name was changed to Currectlync).
I wheeled the XJ for more than 20 years in Colorado, Moab, Calico Ghost town, and Johnson Valley on a variety of trails and the steering always performed flawlessly.
Can't go wrong with Currie parts...