Who's had luck finding a Mopar radiator?

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Bowhunter

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Looking for the mopar radiator for an 03 4.0 Auto (below part number). When google searching, it pulls up a lot of website like MoparUSA, OEMmoparparts, etc but when I place an order it gets canceled because they actually don’t have the part and it’s on back order. I believe this is because they are are related and pull from the same warehouse

Mopar 5503 7653AB, Radiator​


Anyone have luck finding someone that actually has they available recently? If not, what’s the next best thing? I saw a thread where a few people had some success with a CSF
 
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I found one I bought as a spare on Summit Racing several months ago. Someone else here found on on one of the Mopar parts forums.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I found one I bought as a spare on Summit Racing several months ago. Someone else here found on on one of the Mopar parts forums.
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My current stock radiator seems to be pretty clean inside (no deposits) and I recently did a blue devil flush and put the correct H05 coolant in. Tested the stat and it’s good. Replaced fan clutch with Hayden. None of that helped.

Temps are still getting to mid 220s on the hwy with AC off, city driving is 10-15 degrees cooler (85 degree ambient). But if I turn my heat on high on the hwy, the coolant will read 206-215 vs 215-225 on the same stretch of hwy.

Am I safe to assume I would decrease my hwy temps with a new radiator? With how expensive they are and hard to get a hold of, wanted to make sure before I try to order one
 
C.J. Roberts said:
Bowhunter, did you get that new water pump installed? I don't remember whether you did or not.
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I hadn’t done that yet… it’s the radiator and the water pump that haven’t been replaced yet.

My thought process for what to fix next was the radiator since turning on the heat on the hwy helped reduce the temps greatly (heater core acting as a small auxiliary radiator)
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Is it the original Mopar or could it be an aftermarket?
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Mopar as far as I can tell. Looks just like the mopar ones I’ve been looking at ordering.

This a pic inside the radiator. When I drained and flushed the whole system, including the engine block, a few rust pieces came out but overall not much came out out and coolant was clean.

If it’s not the radiator, I’m not sure what could be causing the hwy temps to increase into the mid 220s (per OBD reader) but no issues driving around town or off-roading

IMG_2943.jpeg
 
Longwhitejeep said:
Try the newer style, rock auto has 1 in stock right now. The difference being the hose fittings for the transmission cooler lines. Older style, your part number, being barb fittings. Newer style using quick disconnects. @MountaineerTom had a good hayden conversion part number that seems to work for this retrofit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mopar,55037653AC,radiator,2172



https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...tomatic-transmission-radiator-fittings.45146/
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Sorry some how over looked this post. I read through that and it seems pretty simple, just attach the Hayden quick disconnects using my existing flexible tabs line and constant tension hose clamp, then insert it into the radiator.

Ordered it and it will be here late this week!
 
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Snookbend365 said:
I’m looking for a Mopar one as well. 1997 4.0 manual transmission no A/C if that helps at all. Thinking about going the Denso route if I cannot find a Mopar one
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Look fo the automatic version too, that will double your odds of finding one. The automatic version just has a separate ATF cooler built into it for an automatic transmission, otherwise it's the same radiator and will work just as well with a manual transmission.

And a big welcome to WTF! :)
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Look fo the automatic version too, that will double your odds of finding one. The automatic version just has a separate ATF cooler built into it for an automatic transmission, otherwise it's the same radiator and will work just as well with a manual transmission.

And a big welcome to WTF! :)
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Thank you! So what exact part numbers am I looking for? Since I can look for both?
 
Keep an eye on the FB Marketplace too if you’re on FB. I scored a NIB OEM for $200 for my manual LJR. Guy just had it sitting in his garage unused. I’ve been lucky with deals there and haven’t been scammed, yet.
 
Bowhunter said:
I hadn’t done that yet… it’s the radiator and the water pump that haven’t been replaced yet.

My thought process for what to fix next was the radiator since turning on the heat on the hwy helped reduce the temps greatly (heater core acting as a small auxiliary radiator)
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If the water pump isn't flowing enough water, the heater might be just enough to compensate for it, who knows.
 
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C.J. Roberts said:
If the water pump isn't flowing enough water, the heater might be just enough to compensate for it, who knows.
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My understanding, which is not very good lol, is that all that turning the heat on in the cab, is it pushing air over the heater core to heat the air that goes into the cab.

I would think that the air over the heater core shouldn’t affect the ability of the water pump to pump or the lack there of? The water pump pushes the water regardless of if the in cab heat is on or not. Please correct me if I am mistaken

But at this point, I’m so invested in this cooling system that I’ll likely just end up redoing it all since all that’s left is the radiator and water pump and the system has 118k miles
 
Bowhunter said:
My understanding, which is not very good lol, is that all that turning the heat on in the cab, is it pushing air over the heater core to heat the air that goes into the cab.

I would think that the air over the heater core shouldn’t affect the ability of the water pump to pump or the lack there of? The water pump pushes the water regardless of if the in cab heat is on or not. Please correct me if I am mistaken

But at this point, I’m so invested in this cooling system that I’ll likely just end up redoing it all since all that’s left is the radiator and water pump and the system has 118k miles
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It may be moving the water slower than is optimal. The water is still moving, but not fast enough to circulate it as well as it might. The heater takes the water running through it and cools it just enough to matter. Maybe.
 
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Snookbend365 said:
So these are for 1997-1999
Radiator: 55037652AA (Manual Transmission)
Radiator: 55037653AB (Automatic Transmission)

So the 2000-2006 will not work with the previous years or they will? Hard to find a concrete answer
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I’m in the middle of this right now. The newer year ones will work with the older TJ other than the automatic trans connection. If you order a newer year radiator, and you have an auto trans, my understanding is all you will need is the Hayden 397 part to connect up to the quick disconnect that is in the newer year radiators.

Not 100% sure if some kind of safety arm/clamp is needed to hold the quick disconnect from coming out of the connection port in the radiator (I sent a PM to try to figure this out). My plan is to use my stock tension clamp to connect the flexible hose to the Hayden 397 part
 
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