Why does Jeep use Torx?

Part of my job in the museum world involves opening and closing crates. Last week, I was working with a wide variety from all around the world using screws of various types to secure the lids and internal bracing. Most were Phillips head. The few that were Torx or square drive were noticably easier to deal with. The only irritating part was digging through the tool bag to find the right bits and that most of the people I was working with didn't have their own bit sets. The Phillips/cross style is the wrong screw for most applications it is used for. It's frustrating that we are stuck with it.
 
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Part of my job in the museum world involves opening and closing crates. Last week, I was working with a wide variety from all around the world using screws of various types to secure the lids and internal bracing. Most were Phillips head. The few that were Torx or square drive were noticably easier to deal with. The only irritating part was digging through the tool bag to find the right bits and that most of the people I was working with didn't have their own bit sets. The Phillips/cross style is the wrong screw for most applications it is used for. It's frustrating that we are stuck with it.
The Phillips drive is an advancement in evolution over slotted screws. Compared to slotted screws, they are light years better in that you can actually drive them with a power driver with much higher levels of success. Torx is to Phillips what Phillips is to slotted.

Square drive isn't as good as Torx in that you give up surface contact between 2 more lobes and the driver size is a bit small for most shank sizes.

If you want oddball though, the Spider Drive on some of the timber and framing fasteners is very oddball. I've yet to determine if it is better or just different.
 
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The Phillips drive is an advancement in evolution over slotted screws. Compared to slotted screws, they are light years better in that you can actually drive them with a power driver with much higher levels of success.

Let's be honest, Philips should be the minimum. Slotted screws should be illegal.

FYI for those that don't know when I mention Robertson that's the Canadian name for square drive. They were invented by a Canadian named Peter Lymburner Robertson, Henry Ford ensured you guys got stuck with Philips instead. Up here most wood screws are Robertson. Funny thing that @jjvw reminded me of. My mother had built an animitronic monster for some movie and crated it up to ship to the US. Just before the truck arrived they realized they had built the crate with Roberson screws and chances are no one at the other end would have the bits to open it. They quickly attached a couple of bits to the outside of the crate and apparently the people in California were glad they did.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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...Funny thing that @jjvw reminded me of. My mother had built an animitronic monster for some movie and crated it up to ship to the US. Just before the truck arrived they realized they had built the crate with Roberson screws and chances are no one at the other end would have the bits to open it. They quickly attached a couple of bits to the outside of the crate and apparently the people in California were glad they did.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

That's good! I have been on the receiving end of that very same bundle of bits more than a few times and have been appreciative. I've also been the dummy without the assortment of bits too many times to where I try to always have them in my basic tool bag.
 
We used to do "custom" kitchen box installations for kitchen remodels. I've hung hundreds of uppers with 3" Phillips drive drywall screws. More times than I care to remember using both hands to push on the screw-gun and someone behind me pushing on my shoulders to help get enough pressure to stop cam out on those damn things.


I've got both, the Surge and the Fuel 1/4" impact driver. I'm not sure either one is better yet and I've used the crap out of both.



In Newport Beach once, a lady had us screw down 500 square feet of redwood decking to her concrete porch. We ran small stringers for an air gap and 2 Phillips drive 3 1/2" Tapcons across the face at 16" on center. Practically stand on the screw gun to get them in all the way. Never again.



I use lots and lots of GRK stuff. Surprisingly, I have never had a bad fastener in any of the boxes. Very high QC.
That is real world stuff right there.

We lately got some number 2 Roberts heads that would only work with the DeWalt bits... Weirdest thing I ever saw.

Everything else just jumps out.

I have a cabinet shop that exists only for my remodel clients and when I'm up on a ladder trying to get an upper box hung I don't want a fussy fastener.

If you go to the off-topic category you can see my work trailer... I think you would really appreciate it.
 
Most peoples troubles with Torx screws is the cheap Torx bit they are using to remove one. You have to spend some more money to get a good set of bits that won't warp when adding torq to a stubborn one.
 
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In many fastener applications, Never Seize is your friend. Regardless of the fastener head, anytime I remove a threaded fastener I clean the threads and apply Never Seize. The pay off comes down the road when the fastener needs to be removed again. It also helps to keep rust at bay on the threads.