Wide Open Design's TJ and LJ Tube Chassis

You're gonna swap a whole tub over to a custom tube chassis, put one ton axles under it, and then put the stock 4.0, transmission, and transfer case back in it? I've done a lot of research on buggy builds over the past two years as I intend to turn my Jeep into a trail queen one day. One thing that is completely obvious from the start is that if you're going to build a Jeep out to handle the hardest trails in the country, do it right the first time.

You can argue that you could basically swap a stock Jeep onto one of these chassis and you would be right. But why in the world would you do that? I'm a bit unclear as to why you are trying to make it seem like swapping in one of these chassis is a walk in the park. This is not a chassis intended for your everyday wheeler.
My point is you can use more than just parts of the TJ/LJ tub. Most guys run an LS, TH400, and an Atlas.

And to be fair, a lot of folks build Jeep TJ’s/LJ’s on 42’s, one tons, and still utilize the 4.0 and factory trans.

I would agree that while you could offset a large chunk of cost of a 4.8/5.3+ by selling the factory 4.0 (condition pending) it would work if on a budget. Although I doubt WOD has had a buyer request such a thing.
 
My point is you can use more than just parts of the TJ/LJ tub. Most guys run an LS, TH400, and an Atlas.

And to be fair, a lot of folks build Jeep TJ’s/LJ’s on 42’s, one tons, and still utilize the 4.0 and factory trans.

I would agree that while you could offset a large chunk of cost of a 4.8/5.3+ by selling the factory 4.0 (condition pending) it would work if on a budget. Although I doubt WOD has had a buyer request such a thing.

You could also use the stock axles. There is no doubt that you reasonably could use more TJ parts. But any TJ parts excluding the tub, modified hood, and modified grill would be out of place when using this chassis. You could also use the interior I guess.

There are plenty of guys with 42's and stock drivetrains, sure. But those rigs aren't very good at anything in my opinion. You wouldn't have enough power for hills or mud and you wouldn't have enough gearing for rocks. I think my driveline is underpowered with 35's. I'd hate to try it with 42's.

I simply don't see the point in this chassis unless you are ditching everything besides the body I guess. Doing anything else would result in an incredibly unbalanced build in my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MallCrawlOnTons
How much weight is all that steel adding?
Thats a great question. It would really depend on options you select for the chassis.

Their street version uses a front 3 link setup like a TJ/LJ and allows the use of a steering box/pitman/ram assist setup. .

One option WOD has now made standard is their HD chassis option which includes 1.75 x .188 tubes instead of their standard .120 wall which will dent with high impact. Which does add weight.

The entire “main” tube that forms the “frame” uses the .188 wall as well as the sliders and front/rear bumpers. I believe the outside roll cage tubes utilize the HD wall options as well.

I know some of the front 14 bolts use 3.5 inch tube with .500 wall axles tubes. Full hydro, Reid super kingpin knuckles, 2 inch 40 splines, fully tube trussed, alum high steer can weigh as low as 650lbs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeepins
WOD is currently building one of their JC chassis with an LJ body to utilize 43 inch tires.....and TRAILING ARMS. Not sure anyone has taken on such a project.

Owner wants to drive it from the Southeast (Tenn) to California and Mexico to run His lJ with his desert truck and prerunner buddies.

 
WOD is currently building one of their JC chassis with an LJ body to utilize 43 inch tires.....and TRAILING ARMS. Not sure anyone has taken on such a project.

Owner wants to drive it from the Southeast (Tenn) to California and Mexico to run His lJ with his desert truck and prerunner buddies.

Trailing arms? Yea it’s been in a tj. He took it on the ultimate adventure a few years ago...
 
Also found this gem. :love: (built 6 months ago) AEV highland LJ stretched to 110 inch wheelbase on 37's with high pinion Dana 60's front and rear, 3 link front (assuming he's using a factory style steering box), 4 link rear utilizing 36 inch trailing arms, 12 inch coil-overs in the front and 10 inch coil-overs in the rear, rear has about 18 inches of travel with this setup, strapped. It will be really interesting to see what WOD can fab up for their JC chassis owner.

IMG_192312.jpg
IMG_920732.jpg
IMG_965933.jpg
IMG_292530.jpg
IMG_290326.jpg
IMG_187608.jpg
IMG_187909.jpg
IMG_192111.jpg
IMG_190110.jpg
IMG_183703.jpg
IMG_193013.jpg
 
Last edited:
I found Accutune's TJ with a trailing arm setup:
Yea he took it on what’s called the “ultimate adventure” in 2016. It’s a slick Jeep too, go fast and rock crawler.
You should look up the ultimate adventure, ain’t no Beauty queens like wide open design buggies go on the adventure. Its for hardcore wheelers who wheel hard and work on their rigs.
 
Yea he took it on what’s called the “ultimate adventure” in 2016. It’s a slick Jeep too, go fast and rock crawler.
You should look up the ultimate adventure, ain’t no Beauty queens like wide open design buggies go on the adventure. Its for hardcore wheelers who wheel hard and work on their rigs.
Yea Im familiar. I talk to Keith a lot about Jeeps. He goes every year.
 
This would be a great option for anyone finding a super cheap TJ with heavy frame rust but otherwise good metal.
Its really designed to answer a four link setup for big tires, coil overs, and a stretch with a fuel cell. Can it be street driven? Yes, some customers do drive them on the street.

What you're describing, a salvage frame from a non rusty prone state can easily fix.
 
What you're describing, a salvage frame from a non rusty prone state can easily fix.

That's probably the easier approach, but not very practical in my opinion. If you're somewhere where a rusted frame is likely to be found, then you're dealing with fire by going to all the trouble of installing another stock frame that is equally likely to rust. Why not bypass that concern with a tube frame that can be set up however you want? It's not like shipping a frame from a non-rust state is cheap.

I'm sure you're right that it's not what WOD is geared toward, but it's a missed opportunity if they're not taking that market into account.
 
That's probably the easier approach, but not very practical in my opinion. If you're somewhere where a rusted frame is likely to be found, then you're dealing with fire by going to all the trouble of installing another stock frame that is equally likely to rust. Why not bypass that concern with a tube frame that can be set up however you want? It's not like shipping a frame from a non-rust state is cheap.

I'm sure you're right that it's not what WOD is geared toward, but it's a missed opportunity if they're not taking that market into account.
Are you familiar with Throttle Down Kustoms?

https://www.throttledownkustoms.com/i-26373449-tj-wrangler-jeep-frame-1997-2002.html