Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

Helps when I remember to install the brake rotor... DUH...
Now it's spinning free and a side lug rubs enough to just rub.

20211012_131137.jpg
 
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OK drivers side tire is in the shock more and I have more clearance on the shock on the passenger side. 🙄 Does this mean I don't have my arms adjusted evenly? I 🤔 thought I'd checked them before but I've done a lot since.

Passenger side shock.

20211012_133300.jpg
 
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Wildman said:
I'm sure it might have but I was under the impression that the 4 link was supposed to keep it fairly centered.
Of course I could be mistaken about this.
Click to expand...
it should hold it center............but could hold a little side load while shoving it around.

whats the difference between sides?
passenger looks good. and if your just swipin a nub that should be gone with the new offset. and you don't have to commit the low end brackets until you get your new wheels if you feel thats wiser.
 
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someguysjeep said:
it should hold it center............but could hold a little side load while shoving it around.

whats the difference between sides?
passenger looks good. and if your just swipin a nub that should be gone with the new offset. and you don't have to commit the low end brackets until you get your new wheels if you feel thats wiser.
Click to expand...

The upper links were out of adjustment. One side by almost a 1" and the other 1/2" both are adjusted to install specs. I'll flex it again and see what happens.
 
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OK a little bit better but still gets into the shock more on the drivers side than the passenger side. Guess the next thing is to measure my bracket placement and see if I got one of them off.
But ultimately I'm happy with how it's turned out.
I did have to go back and move the drivers side lower shock mount. I got to see really well what Blaine was talking about in his outboard thread. I didn't have the same angle on the drivers side mount and about 1" from full stuff it would start to bind up. A small bounce on the tub would make it go the rest of the way. But it was interesting to see why you need to make sure it's aligned perfectly.
This took longer than I'd expected it to but that seems to be a theme for me. Now I get to play Anti-Rock clearance. O'Joy I'm so looking forward to that.
 
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Wildman said:
OK a little bit better but still gets into the shock more on the drivers side than the passenger side. Guess the next thing is to measure my bracket placement and see if I got one of them off.
But ultimately I'm happy with how it's turned out.
I did have to go back and move the drivers side lower shock mount. I got to see really well what Blaine was talking about in his outboard thread. I didn't have the same angle on the drivers side mount and about 1" from full stuff it would start to bind up. A small bounce on the tub would make it go the rest of the way. But it was interesting to see why you need to make sure it's aligned perfectly.
This took longer than I'd expected it to but that seems to be a theme for me. Now I get to play Anti-Rock clearance. O'Joy I'm so looking forward to that.
Click to expand...
Put the axle at ride height and put a square up to your WMS then measure from that to the frame. Do on both sides. Adjust uppers until they're dam close to equal on each side and your rear axle should be centered. Make sure the axle is square first. You have to twist each upper link in the opposite direction of the other to get it to move horizontally.
 
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B00mb00m said:
Put the axle at ride height and put a square up to your WMS then measure from that to the frame. Do on both sides. Adjust uppers until they're dam close to equal on each side and your rear axle should be centered. Make sure the axle is square first. You have to twist each upper link in the opposite direction of the other to get it to move horizontally.
Click to expand...

OK will try that tomorrow. I'm done for tonight.
 
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After looking at the Anti-Rock yesterday and reading some threads on the subject & talking with @Alex01 on the phone I've put this on hold until new arms arrive. I have the new forged bent arms and need straight arms because I can't fit the Anti-Rock behind the axle/shock towers.
 
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OK I found out part of my issue with the rear axle. The spot weld on one side of the truss broke loose.
So I need to pull the axle and fix that. Then I can go from there.

I pulled the transmission crossmember to weld it also.

20211013_114640.jpg


Then I also redid the front lower shock mounts because I didn't like them so close together.

20211013_114627.jpg


I'm done for now because I need to replace the cover on my portable shed.
 
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Wildman said:
OK I found out part of my issue with the rear axle. The spot weld on one side of the truss broke loose.
So I need to pull the axle and fix that. Then I can go from there.

I pulled the transmission crossmember to weld it also.

View attachment 283346

Then I also redid the front lower shock mounts because I didn't like them so close together.

View attachment 283345

I'm done for now because I need to replace the cover on my portable shed.
Click to expand...
Sounds familiar I had to stop all fun stuff and drop 2 G's replacing roof on my shed-shop in the middle of a month of solid rain
 
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B00mb00m said:
Sounds familiar I had to stop all fun stuff and drop 2 G's replacing roof on my shed-shop in the middle of a month of solid rain
Click to expand...

Yep except I fucked up and ordered the wrong size replacement cover. I ordered the 8' instead of the 10' that I have.

So threw tarps over everything for now.

20211013_130420.jpg


Hopefully the tires will hold it down if the wind gets crazy.
 
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Well, the Jeep is looking amazing. This is just a joy to read. You guys are brilliant and I love it when people are getting stuff done!

Me: trying to find an Alloy USA 11200 Dana 30 diff cover so I can fit the Currie Steering. Should have done this before the supply lines went to a halt a few months ago.
 
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JMT said:
Well, the Jeep is looking amazing. This is just a joy to read. You guys are brilliant and I love it when people are getting stuff done!

Me: trying to find an Alloy USA 11200 Dana 30 diff cover so I can fit the Currie Steering. Should have done this before the supply lines went to a halt a few months ago.
Click to expand...

Why does it have to be the Alloy USA cover?
 
JMT said:
Well, the Jeep is looking amazing. This is just a joy to read. You guys are brilliant and I love it when people are getting stuff done!

Me: trying to find an Alloy USA 11200 Dana 30 diff cover so I can fit the Currie Steering. Should have done this before the supply lines went to a halt a few months ago.
Click to expand...
The dana/spicer HD diff cover is only 1/8" deeper than the alloy one, dunno how tight your clearance is though
 
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Wildman said:
Why not a RuffStuff or Ballistic Fab?

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/D30COV.html
Or

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2436-A.html
https://www.ballisticfabrication.co...rential-covers/products/dana-30-jk-diff-cover

https://ktperformance.net/i-2264778...CE=c&msclkid=b8554d0bea85198d30e72c6cb276fe23
Click to expand...
Price!

Wow, the Ballistic Fabs looks great, maintaining the factory oil flow face on the inner side of the cover, but $339 vs $50!

The red Alloy one looks interesting. I thought about it, but I'm always about as cheap as possible but up to snuff standards.

5 kids 😉
 
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JMT said:
Price!

Wow, the Ballistic Fabs looks great, maintaining the factory oil flow face on the inner side of the cover, but $339 vs $50!

The red Alloy one looks interesting. I thought about it, but I'm always about as cheap as possible but up to snuff standards.

5 kids 😉
Click to expand...

Yep the Ballistic Fab one is cool as heck but the price tag has kept me from buying one too.
 
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