Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

I know you didn't tag me on this but... Are you wanting to shoot the whole side with color, or are you just wanting to seal the bare metal parts and then clean up the existing paint?

Primer alone is not a good as a protective sealant.

If it were me I would sand everything lightly, feathering the original paint into the bare metal areas, then coat the bare with a light grey primer, then sand lightly again, clean, prep, and shoot with color to blend, then clear coat if you want to go that far.

Edit: I may have read your intentions wrong, if so then disregard my babble...:ROFLMAO:
 
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reddvltj said:
I know you didn't tag me on this but... Are you wanting to shoot the whole side with color, or are you just wanting to seal the bare metal parts and then clean up the existing paint?

Primer alone is not a good as a protective sealant.

If it were me I would sand everything lightly, feathering the original paint into the bare metal areas, then coat the bare with a light grey primer, then sand lightly again, clean, prep, and shoot with color to blend, then clear coat if you want to go that far.

Edit: I may have read your intentions wrong, if so then disregard my babble...:ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

I did say "and anyone else with paint experiance..... ;)

OK

1) Clean up old paint. Meaning get all the surface rust and dirt and other crap off.

2) Paint/treat/protect the bare metal areas so it can be covered by armor again.

3) Short of putting a wrap on the tub where that armor is going to sit I want to protect the paint not to preserve it but to keep rust or any more damage to it. And then as you said do something with the bare metal areas.

This is a while down the road but figured I might get lucky and buy stuff now during all the sales.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
To make sure I understand, are you painting the armor on the jeep along with the rest of the jeep?
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I wasn't planning on painting the Jeep. My plans were to paint the armor inside and outside and the same with the fenders and flares. But when I repaired all the old armor holes it now requires me to at least paint the bare metal. Plus I don't want to just install the armor over the paint like I did last time without any prep. I'd like to try and do a better job this time.
 
Wildman said:
I did say "and anyone else with paint experiance..... ;)

OK

1) Clean up old paint. Meaning get all the surface rust and dirt and other crap off.

2) Paint/treat/protect the bare metal areas so it can be covered by armor again.

3) Short of putting a wrap on the tub where that armor is going to sit I want to protect the paint not to preserve it but to keep rust or any more damage to it. And then as you said do something with the bare metal areas.

This is a while down the road but figured I might get lucky and buy stuff now during all the sales.
Click to expand...
Armed with that knowledge I would probably go this route:

1. Prep all the bare metal and deep scratch areas for primer, then lay a couple coats of primer.
2. Once primer is dry sand everything to smooth out any runs or ridges from overlap.
3. Use a finer sand paper and wet sand to prep for color, then spray color.

Here's a handy guide that might help.

40 to 80 Grit – This sandpaper grit is very course and will leave behind visible marks, so it is not recommended for small clear coat scratches and other similar applications. Instead, it is recommended for any rough sanding that needs to be done prior to body work, as well as, shaping body filler.

120 to 180 Grit – Use this grit range for flattening out scratches, feathering edges of body filler, spot putty sanding, and light rust removal.

320 to 400 – This grit range is much finer than the previous ones mentioned. It can be used for pre-primer sanding, rough primer sanding, fine sanding spot putty, and final body filler sanding. It is recommended to use a sanding block too.

600 to 800 Grit – This sandpaper grit range is perfect for sanding surface imperfections in the primer, prior to paint application. It is recommended to start at the low grit end and work your way up to 800 grit.

1000 to 1200 Grit – When you need to remove base coat imperfections, this grit range will do the job. Be sure to use the wet sanding technique for best results.

1500 to 2000 Grit – When you need to smooth out surface imperfections and scratches before and after applying the clear coat, this is the grit range to use. This will also require the wet sanding technique to prevent clogging the sandpaper.

Stolen from:
https://sandpaperamerica.com/blog/the-correct-sandpaper-grits-for-sanding-car-paint/
 
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If it's going to be under the armor, I wouldn't spend a lot of time making it pretty. The big thing is to ensure the surface won't rust. In this case I would scuff it, primer coat it, then put a coat of paint on it. The other thing I've done, under armor specifically, is to prime it, paint it, then cover that with a couple layers of flex seal. This is excessive, but rust wouldn't be a worry.
 
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reddvltj said:
Armed with that knowledge I would probably go this route:

1. Prep all the bare metal and deep scratch areas for primer, then lay a couple coats of primer.
2. Once primer is dry sand everything to smooth out any runs or ridges from overlap.
3. Use a finer sand paper and wet sand to prep for color, then spray color.

Here's a handy guide that might help.

40 to 80 Grit – This sandpaper grit is very course and will leave behind visible marks, so it is not recommended for small clear coat scratches and other similar applications. Instead, it is recommended for any rough sanding that needs to be done prior to body work, as well as, shaping body filler.

120 to 180 Grit – Use this grit range for flattening out scratches, feathering edges of body filler, spot putty sanding, and light rust removal.

320 to 400 – This grit range is much finer than the previous ones mentioned. It can be used for pre-primer sanding, rough primer sanding, fine sanding spot putty, and final body filler sanding. It is recommended to use a sanding block too.

600 to 800 Grit – This sandpaper grit range is perfect for sanding surface imperfections in the primer, prior to paint application. It is recommended to start at the low grit end and work your way up to 800 grit.

1000 to 1200 Grit – When you need to remove base coat imperfections, this grit range will do the job. Be sure to use the wet sanding technique for best results.

1500 to 2000 Grit – When you need to smooth out surface imperfections and scratches before and after applying the clear coat, this is the grit range to use. This will also require the wet sanding technique to prevent clogging the sandpaper.

Stolen from:
https://sandpaperamerica.com/blog/the-correct-sandpaper-grits-for-sanding-car-paint/
Click to expand...
This is a great guide! (y)
 
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bobthetj03 said:
All solid advise. Forget the rubbing compound.
Click to expand...

Don't I want the rubbing compound or something like that to get that surface rust off or would that be taken care of by me sanding the whole area with say 800 grit sandpaper?

reddvltj said:
Armed with that knowledge I would probably go this route:

1. Prep all the bare metal and deep scratch areas for primer, then lay a couple coats of primer.
2. Once primer is dry sand everything to smooth out any runs or ridges from overlap.
3. Use a finer sand paper and wet sand to prep for color, then spray color.

Here's a handy guide that might help.

40 to 80 Grit – This sandpaper grit is very course and will leave behind visible marks, so it is not recommended for small clear coat scratches and other similar applications. Instead, it is recommended for any rough sanding that needs to be done prior to body work, as well as, shaping body filler.

120 to 180 Grit – Use this grit range for flattening out scratches, feathering edges of body filler, spot putty sanding, and light rust removal.

320 to 400 – This grit range is much finer than the previous ones mentioned. It can be used for pre-primer sanding, rough primer sanding, fine sanding spot putty, and final body filler sanding. It is recommended to use a sanding block too.

600 to 800 Grit – This sandpaper grit range is perfect for sanding surface imperfections in the primer, prior to paint application. It is recommended to start at the low grit end and work your way up to 800 grit.

1000 to 1200 Grit – When you need to remove base coat imperfections, this grit range will do the job. Be sure to use the wet sanding technique for best results.

1500 to 2000 Grit – When you need to smooth out surface imperfections and scratches before and after applying the clear coat, this is the grit range to use. This will also require the wet sanding technique to prevent clogging the sandpaper.

Stolen from:
https://sandpaperamerica.com/blog/the-correct-sandpaper-grits-for-sanding-car-paint/
Click to expand...

Thanks that helps a lot. I've been trying to watch YouTube videos but they seem to skip over stuff.

Alex01 said:
Also, no wax on new paint for 60+ days due to the cold weather. You need to let it breath while it cures.
Click to expand...

This is part of why I would like to get the painting done now and then all the other work done before I start trying to assemble it. But if there isn't a reason to add wax under the armor than it really doesn't matter.
 
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Wildman said:
This is part of why I would like to get the painting done now and then all the other work done before I start trying to assemble it. But if there isn't a reason to add wax under the armor than it really doesn't matter.
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I just shot mine with primer after filling the holes. I haven't taken the armor off though so I can't comment on how well it worked.
 
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starkey480 said:
Move to Arizona and leave it bare and forget about it
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I'm not into the bare metal look be it steel or aluminum. And while yes you have a drier climate shit will still rust.

AZ is on my list of possible states to move to but DAMN your housing prices have gone thru the ROOF.
 
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OpticArmor windshield arrived today. I'll unbox it later.

20211123_110659.jpg
 
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Wildman said:
I'm not into the bare metal look be it steel or aluminum. And while yes you have a drier climate shit will still rust.

AZ is on my list of possible states to move to but DAMN your housing prices have gone thru the ROOF.
Click to expand...
Tell me about it. Jeep projects are on hold until I get a damn house. It’s been rough but I think we can get into a house after we file taxes in January. Being self employed makes it rough
 
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starkey480 said:
Tell me about it. Jeep projects are on hold until I get a damn house. It’s been rough but I think we can get into a house after we file taxes in January. Being self employed makes it rough
Click to expand...

Try being on a FIXED income.... Retired life isn't all it's cracked up to be. And I got FORCED retired not by choice.

I'd looked at AZ area in 2014 and was going to move but then LIFE happened.
 
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Wildman said:
Try being on a FIXED income.... Retired life isn't all it's cracked up to be. And I got FORCED retired not by choice.

I'd looked at AZ area in 2014 and was going to move but then LIFE happened.
Click to expand...
AZ is one of the few states I look to move to in the future. Others are ID, MT, UT, and FL
 
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