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Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

JMT

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@Wildman . I liked the pattern at 0.072 pinion depth. It looks most like the competition pattern to me. It’s just the hard line that throws you off. The current 0.070 pinion depth looks pretty good too. It’s an education reading this. Some light bulbs 💡 came on for me.
 
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Wildman

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@Wildman . I liked the pattern at 0.072 pinion depth. It looks most like the competition pattern to me. It’s just the hard line that throws you off. The current 0.070 pinion depth looks pretty good too. It’s an education reading this. Some light bulbs 💡 came on for me.

With everything I post I hope it that it might help others out at some point. And if they can learn from the stuff I'm doing or the mistakes I make that's even better..

Yes I liked the 0.072 pattern too. But had to confirm that the hardline wasn't from it being too deep. I've still got to tighten up the backlash a few .002-003 before I can call it good. But I need the spreader to be able to do that.
 

Woodrow

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As Black said it might still be a bit deep. I'm going to go back and adjust it again. The other thing is that I need to find a better way to load the gear to get a better pattern.

This video while VERY monotone does a good job explaining the contact pattern.


Lucky for me the pinion seal isn't installed into the housing instead it's installed in this piece that screws into the housing. So I won't ruin the seal taking it back out.

View attachment 304758

I got a head of myself and should have looked at that pattern better.

And Carl sent this information over. I'm trying to get the competition contact pattern.

View attachment 304759

View attachment 304760

View attachment 304762

As I said earlier it's been over 12 years since I've done gears. And while you don't lose the knowledge if you aren't doing it often your get rusty. So on Thursday I'll get back at it and make some adjustments.
Thanks for all this info. That video is a great visual demonstration of R&P set up. Question: do the patterns change much with normal wear? In other words, would you expect them to be pretty similar 20K miles later when you are changing the diff fluid, assuming no issues?
 
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Blackjack

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Thanks for all this info. That video is a great visual demonstration of R&P set up. Question: do the patterns change much with normal wear? In other words, would you expect them to be pretty similar 20K miles later when you are changing the diff fluid, assuming no issues?
The pattern changes shape over time and you can see it if you run paint on it. But the location of the pattern should stay in the same area unless something is failing.
 
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Wildman

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They pattern changes shape over time and you can see it if you run paint on it. But the location of the pattern should stay in the same area unless something is failing.

Thanks for answering this.
The one thing to point out on this install is that if I was to take a pattern reading in 5k miles the sharp edge would be gone.
But I have to be extra careful when I'm breaking in the gears.

Given all that, while you've got it apart it’s prolly worth checking to see if the axle is straight. Welding the truss warped my 14 bolt a bit.

Jeff,
Thanks for bringing this up. It hadn't crossed my mind to do this.
I've got a 5' piece of DOM 1.5" tubing that I'll use as my bar.
 

NashvilleTJ

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Thanks for answering this.
The one thing to point out on this install is that if I was to take a pattern reading in 5k miles the sharp edge would be gone.
But I have to be extra careful when I'm breaking in the gears.



Jeff,
Thanks for bringing this up. It hadn't crossed my mind to do this.
I've got a 5' piece of DOM 1.5" tubing that I'll use as my bar.
I’ve never done it that way, but is a piece of DOM straight enough to give a good measurement? After welding my truss, it was only out by 45 thou over the length of the axle.
 
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Wildman

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I’ve never done it that way, but is a piece of DOM straight enough to give a good measurement? After welding my truss, it was only out by 45 thou over the length of the axle.

I don't have anything else that would be straight and long enough.
It was the first thing that popped up in my mind to use.

Set the carrier bearings in place and the old axle bearings on the ends. Slide the DOM through and see if it's off?

If it appears to be then I'd need to make the jigs like you did?
I'll have to go back and read about how you checked yours and what you did.

I'm at the VA right now so won't get to work on it until tomorrow I'd guess.
Hoping my exhaust will be ready for pickup today also.
 
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NashvilleTJ

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I don't have anything else that would be straight and long enough.
It was the first thing that popped up in my mind to use.

Set the carrier bearings in place and the old axle bearings on the ends. Slide the DOM through and see if it's off?

If it appears to be then I'd need to make the jigs like you did?
I'll have to go back and read about how you checked yours and what you did.

I'm at the VA right now so won't get to work on it until tomorrow I'd guess.
Hoping my exhaust will be ready for pickup today also.
I wonder how Carl Janz checks his? My guess is he has an actual alignment rod.
 
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Wildman

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Well home from the VA and needed a short break. Bad news is that my exhaust wasn't done yet. It seems they found a few more holes than thought at first. But I talked to the owner this time and he was like no worries we've seen a LOT WORSE before you did a good job on welding that pipe together.

Now the GOOD News. No charge for the welding. This was his way of giving back to a veteran. He said I'd given a lot for our country and this was his way of trying to pay me back. So I told him I'd be sure to talk up his shop.


IMO a very stand up guy. I'll report back next week once I pick up the exhaust on the quality. If I find this reduces the heat noticeably on my Jeep I'll be taking my Harley exhaust in to have done too.

Other good news is that now that I'm done with this study at the VA I'll be getting paid soon... Mad money for parts.. YAHOO.
 

jesseshoots

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Well home from the VA and needed a short break. Bad news is that my exhaust wasn't done yet. It seems they found a few more holes than thought at first. But I talked to the owner this time and he was like no worries we've seen a LOT WORSE before you did a good job on welding that pipe together.

Now the GOOD News. No charge for the welding. This was his way of giving back to a veteran. He said I'd given a lot for our country and this was his way of trying to pay me back. So I told him I'd be sure to talk up his shop.


IMO a very stand up guy. I'll report back next week once I pick up the exhaust on the quality. If I find this reduces the heat noticeably on my Jeep I'll be taking my Harley exhaust in to have done too.

Other good news is that now that I'm done with this study at the VA I'll be getting paid soon... Mad money for parts.. YAHOO.
If any post deserves the “USA Proud” flair it’s this one
 
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Wildman

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Brown Santa came.

20220126_171519.jpg


1) New wheel studs for the rear axles. I'm replacing everything so this seemed like a good idea.

2) Machined Anti-Rock bushings to fit the TNT Customs front crossmember that's part of the steering box rotation kit.

3) 7/8" x 14 tap & 13/16" drill bit.

Tomorrow should be pretty busy.
 
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Wildman

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I did forget to mention AGAIN.

My SwayLoc will be going up For Sale soon. The ONLY thing it will really need is the manual latch kit which is about $75 off ORO's site.
The other thing you'd need is to either buy a pair of bushings from ORO or if you currently have a Anti-Rock drill out your bushings to accept the SwayLoc bar.

I'll list it for a fair price but it is BRAND NEW so it's not going to be a deep discount & shipping will be on the buyer. And I'll worn you now it's about $70+ to ship since it's so dang nab heavy. I'd really rather sell it to someone closer.
 

taylormade73

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I don't have anything else that would be straight and long enough.
It was the first thing that popped up in my mind to use.

Set the carrier bearings in place and the old axle bearings on the ends. Slide the DOM through and see if it's off?

If it appears to be then I'd need to make the jigs like you did?
I'll have to go back and read about how you checked yours and what you did.

I'm at the VA right now so won't get to work on it until tomorrow I'd guess.
Hoping my exhaust will be ready for pickup today also.
Pull carrier and axles out. Look through the housing from one end to the other. If it is straight, you will be able to form concentric circles with all the openings. If it is bent, you won't.
 
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Wildman

Wildman

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Pull carrier and axles out. Look through the housing from one end to the other. If it is straight, you will be able to form concentric circles with all the openings. If it is bent, you won't.

Yes I was aware of this method. I guess was over thinking it again or just looking for ways to detect more minor bends.
 
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Wildman

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gasiorv

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That was the stuff I was doing to go back and find. Thanks for that. And yes I don't have the wood working tools or the patience's to make them. But I'll figure something out if I figure out that it's bent.
Ha, I was actually referring to myself when I was talking about the wood working and patience. +/- 1/8" and I am usually sending it without a worry. Funny thing is that at work, I am holding everyone to tolerances and constantly preaching Geometric Dimensions and Tolerances (GD&T), helping mechanics figure out why they can't maintain tolerances, etc.... But at home, I am tape measure with a sharpie and eyeballing with my thumb, +/- 1/8' probably isn't an exaggeration. Luckily my Engineers don't hang out with me at home!
 
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Wildman

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Ha, I was actually referring to myself when I was talking about the wood working and patience. +/- 1/8" and I am usually sending it without a worry. Funny thing is that at work, I am holding everyone to tolerances and constantly preaching Geometric Dimensions and Tolerances (GD&T), helping mechanics figure out why they can't maintain tolerances, etc.... But at home, I am tape measure with a sharpie and eyeballing with my thumb, +/- 1/8' probably isn't an exaggeration. Luckily my Engineers don't hang out with me at home!

Well I'm one of those people who can't cut a straight line to save my life. And wood and I don't get along when it's time to make things exact. I'd have 20-30 pucks cut before I got one that was CLOSE.
I'll do the basic checks first before I start to fret about getting something to measure it with.
 
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