When you said you were digging out the case spreader, I didn't gather you were building one from scratch? Lol!
Kinda a theme of the thread. Custom make it, or at least customize it and make it betterWhen you said you were digging out the case spreader, I didn't gather you were building one from scratch? Lol!
is this the same diff you showed those patterns for?
now your changing bearings on the carrier? i wouldn't expect anything new to fit like anything old, even using set up bearings is not exact every time.
and by carrier preload you mean what? right to left effecting BL or it's just tight as hell? cause i read you really cant get "to much" preload on carrier bearings. mines a MF'r to get in and out.
When you said you were digging out the case spreader, I didn't gather you were building one from scratch? Lol!
Kinda a theme of the thread. Custom make it, or at least customize it and make it better
Rick - do you know the part number for your ARB? I seem to remember something about the ‘60 ARB race on one side being short. It came with a thick spacer to make up for it for some reason.
I would have dropped it off at the gear guy……… lol
The ARB I smoked in my old 60 was the RD35 - which was the 3-piece 4.56 and up version. I think the RD36 is the 4.10 and down version. I went back and looked and I have the install instructions for the RD35, and I do see that master shim in there. Sounds like you are in good shape, but if you need anything from the manual I can send you a copy.Yes this is a RD36 and Carl confirmed that I needed the short race. And yes there is a "Master" shim from ARB and then a shim pack also for the Dana 60. I'd already ordered both of those kits. Just had missed the fact that the race was a different size. But the new one will be here Tuesday.
The ARB I smoked in my old 60 was the RD35 - which was the 3-piece 4.56 and up version. I think the RD36 is the 4.10 and down version. I went back and looked and I have the install instructions for the RD35, and I do see that master shim in there. Sounds like you are in good shape, but if you need anything from the manual I can send you a copy.
Yes the RD35 is the 4.56 and up and the RD 36 is the 4.10 and down. I have thick cut gears.
Great to know someone who has the instructions. I email ARB to see if I could get a copy of the instructions since I couldn't find them online anywhere. If they don't reply I might ask you to scan a few pages for me.
There is a master shim and then a shim pack and with the previous setup there was a 0.030 shim installed on the between the bearing race and housing on the gear side of the carrier. Can you verify that this is how it's supposed to be setup please?
Yes there is an easy way to tell if you have the proper preload on the side bearings. Here is the formula.
Total preload (in/lbs. with the unit totally assembled) minus the pinion bearing preload (with only the pinion assembly) multiplied by the gear ratio = side bearing preload.
If your total preload is 32 in/lbs - pinion preload of 25 in/lbs = 7 in/lbs x ratio of 3.73 = 26.11 in/lbs side bearing preload.
I learned this from an awesome GM teacher and it works great. I have the procedure for the complete shim set up also but on a different computer. I can get it to you later if you would like.
DIFFERENTIAL REPAIR PROCEDURE
(INTEGRAL TYPE)
1. Remove cover - allow oil to drain.
2. Clean teeth with solvent, check tooth contact pattern, and record.
3. Check backlash in 3 spots around ring gear (general specification is .005" to .009" with no more than .002" variation).
4. Check ring gear runout (.003" maximum).
5. Remove axles.
6. Check total preload and record.
7. Mark and remove side bearing caps.
8. Measure shims on both sides and record.
9. Check pinion bearing preload and record.
10. Inspect all bearings, races, and gears for pitting or other damage.
11. Replace pinion bearing races (if required).
12. Check pinion depth with special tool (if available).
13. Replace pinion bearings with correct pinion depth shim in place (lube bearings lightly).
14. Install pinion gear, new crush sleeve, front bearing, seal, yoke, washer and nut.
15. Tighten pinion nut until proper pinion bearing preload is achieved and record (should be 15-20 lbs./in. for used bearings and 20-30 lbs./in. for new bearings).
16. Replace side bearings and races (lube lightly).
17. Hold ring gear and differential case assembly in place.
18. Temporarily place a waved shim (.040") on outside of right side bearing race.
19. Pack left side bearing with shims until zero backlash is obtained.
20. Pack right side bearing to zero preload (remove waved .040" shim).
21. To set backlash and side bearing preload subtract .004" from left shim pack and add .012" to the right shim pack
22. Install side bearing caps and torque bolts to specifications.
23. Check backlash in 3 places and record (should be .005" to .009" with less than .002" variance).
24. Check total preload and record.
25. Use the following formula to check side bearing preload. Total preload - pinion preload = _______ x axle ratio = side bearing preload.
26. Side bearing preload should be 15-30 lbs./in. for new bearings.
27. Use gear marking compound and check the gear tooth contact pattern to double check setup.
28. If backlash and side bearing preload is within specifications, finish assembling the remaining parts, torque all fasteners to specifications.
29. Add the correct lubricant and road test vehicle to confirm the repair.
Original Measurements
Gear contact pattern OK______Not OK_______Explain:
Backlash:
Ring gear runout:
Total preload:
Side bearing shim totals - Left side__________ Right side__________
Check pinion bearing preload:
Pinion depth shim thickness:
Parts needed:
Reassembly Measurements
Pinion depth shim needed:
Pinion bearing preload:
Side bearing shim totals - Left side__________ Right side__________
Total bearing preload:
Use formula to figure out side bearing preload.
Total preload - pinion preload = ________ x axle ratio = side bearing preload.
__________ - ___________ = ________ x ________ = ____________
Side bearing preload:
Check backlash:
Check ring gear runout:
Check gear tooth contact pattern. OK_____ Not OK_____. If not OK, Re do the setup.
Here is the layout for the master shim side. There are also shims between the bearing and the carrier on the ring gear side.
View attachment 305744
PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you a .pdf version of the install instructions.
bearing & race is different or just the race?
is the wider cup contacting something and not allowing the cone to seat?
i never had to deal with an Arb collar yet, but the illustration Nashville posted tells me why that cup is narrower.
with that lip on there i can see why a spreader helps, i was able to drive in my thickest shim last.
kinda on the fence about an Arb in the 14B. if i can disco that rear axle (isolate the front drive) i don't have to have an unlockable locker really. wouldn't want a spool either but could maybe get away with a detroit or grizzly that does allow turning overrun..
Well, the good news is that now it won’t block your pattern pictures….Well I knew it was bound to happen and I guess I'd rather it happen NOW instead of later. As I was pulling the axle apart again and went to remove the carrier cap the copper line broke. Again not really a big deal but it's just MONEY.... It's this little shit that ends up costing you so much.
View attachment 305930
Now I'm in the middle of trying out some different shim combinations to see if I can come up with a better pattern.