Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

reddvltj

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The REAL test now is to hook it all back up and see if the Jeep will start & run... o_Oo_Oo_O I have confidence in my wiring but it's still a good idea to check.

I thought about saying something to positively reinforce the faith you have in your abilities but then I decided, hell no I'm not going to be the reason doesn't work all because I jinxed it!!

1669860612607.png

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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Wildman

Wildman

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I thought about saying something to positively reinforce the faith you have in your abilities but then I decided, hell no I'm not going to be the reason doesn't work all because I jinxed it!!

View attachment 380787
:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Now when it won't start, I'm blaming you...
 

pc1p

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I don't remember how I'd found out about Martin but one of the forums I was on I think had recommended him. He was great to work with and cut me a great deal.
Every one I know who has worked with Martin has said the same - guy is top notch!

When are you starting on the Hemi swap? Why a TF727 instead of the 545RFE?

Well my daughter starts driving next July and I think we're gonna get her a low-mile 2-door JL or JK (depending on what we find out there when we start looking). So with that, we'll have two cars in the driveway that we can use for various things. I expect to be done with my boat restore in April/May (whenever it gets warm enough for a week to do the final foam pour), so my hope is that I'll be able to start pulling the Jeep apart sometime in Sept/Oct of next year (since I'll want the LJ to pull the boat around for the summer). The only potential monkey-wrench in my plans may be the building of a small 20x24' shop on the back of the property. I've been trying to get my neighbor to sell me the 0.13 and 0.60 acres between our properties but he won't budge and told me again there was "no way on earth (he) is separating the parcels on the deed". So with that, I'm looking at alternatives that the Mrs. will approve (she doesn't want it to be visually "in the way", but does admit we need additional parking and I need a workshop!).

I'm currently sourcing parts and am keeping my eye out for a good motor. I found some options but don't want to pounce on anything yet, as I really need to get this boat done (or at least mostly done) so I can have enough space in the garage to move around freely. The trans, at least a 4x4 TF727, can be hard to source and I snatched this one up for $200 (guy had to reschedule and then I had to reschedule the pickup - so we are still working on it but I should have it this weekend... sucks not having a utility trailer like I did back in AZ!).

I'm going 727 this time around for simplicity sake, but also long term strength limits. Building a stout TF727 can be done in the garage with hand tools and easily sourced parts. The 545RFE transmission is good in stock form, but needs some work when you start cranking up the juice. From what I have heard from two trans builders back in AZ, once you start going stroker and adding power adders/cams/etc, torque management can be tricky. I don't plan on going nuts on the engine, at least not at the start, but want to keep options open and don't want to have to find a trans guy who knows how to make them stout. I also want to run the Holley Terminator X, which (at this time) doesn't have 545RFE controls (and from what Holley said, they aren't planning on any time soon). I have considered finding a 46RE (since just calling up Martin would be simple!) and since the Holley Terminator X can be used for OD/LU on the RE control (to cater to the 2nd Gen Ram and Dakota guys).
 
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Wildman

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Some of the guys on the FB Dodge V-8 group I'm on have used the Terminator X with good results on the magnum engines. I thought about getting one to make tuning the 6 Pack easier. But decided that I'd try with the stock PCM first and can always upgrade it in the future.
 
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pc1p

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Some of the guys on the FB Dodge V-8 group I'm on have used the Terminator X with good results on the magnum engines. I thought about getting one to make tuning the 6 Pack easier. But decided that I'd try with the stock PCM first and can always upgrade it in the future.

I haven't seen any Magnum's on the Terminator X... the Hemi and LS guys love it though, for many reasons too.
 
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@reddvltj you're off the hook for now. Check engine light is due to the transmission code & the EVAP not being hooked up.


Wiring looks SO MUCH better than stock and now I just need to get it all mounted to the firewall.

20221201_135101.jpg



And it tucks down really nice along the valve covers next to the injectors.

20221201_135122.jpg


Hung onto the firewall right now with just these two zipties.

20221201_135137.jpg



Drivers side tucked in and all the sensors hooked up.

20221201_135151.jpg


Wiring running down along the transmission.

20221201_135155.jpg


Then wiring around the master cylinder and into the tub.

20221201_135200.jpg
 
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Wildman

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Seems the older style Dana 44 might be going the same route as stuff for the TJ. I've contacted Crane Axle 3 different times in the past 2.5 years and get the same reply each time when I ask about the Dana 44 High Steer Interlocking Knuckle Kit - Extreme Duty

There is no projected date of restock for them right now.

I liked their design better than the Reid Racing knuckles. But I guess I'm going to have to go with Reid knuckles.
 
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Curious to hear thoughts on other's thoughts on installing a check valve into my fuel system. The stock system on our TJ's have a check valve in them that is part of the fuel pump itself. But on mine all that has been removed. So, I bought this to either install right at the fuel tank or at the fuel filter or at the fuel regulator.

1669958516041.png


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8SMNDQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

My thought is that it should be either at the fitting come off the fuel pump/tank or right before or right after the fuel filter. I think putting it at the fuel pressure regulator would defeat the purpose. My understanding is that it's to keep fuel in the fuel line to make starting easier if it sits for more than a day or two. But my system throws a kink into the because I have a fuel pressure regulator that has a return on it also so will that bleed off the pressure if I have a check valve before it?

Thoughts?
 

NashvilleTJ

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Curious to hear thoughts on other's thoughts on installing a check valve into my fuel system. The stock system on our TJ's have a check valve in them that is part of the fuel pump itself. But on mine all that has been removed. So, I bought this to either install right at the fuel tank or at the fuel filter or at the fuel regulator.

View attachment 381115

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8SMNDQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

My thought is that it should be either at the fitting come off the fuel pump/tank or right before or right after the fuel filter. I think putting it at the fuel pressure regulator would defeat the purpose. My understanding is that it's to keep fuel in the fuel line to make starting easier if it sits for more than a day or two. But my system throws a kink into the because I have a fuel pressure regulator that has a return on it also so will that bleed off the pressure if I have a check valve before it?

Thoughts?

Where is the fuel pressure regulator mounted?
 
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NashvilleTJ

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Yes, return line comes off the bottom of the regulator.

My thought is that the check valve can go anywhere on the inbound fuel line between the tank and the regulator. The pressure regulator (if functioning properly) will not let the pressure at the rail bleed down - it should only open when the line pressure exceeds the PSI setting, and the pump has to be running to do that.

The purpose of the check valve is not to maintain pressure, but rather just to keep fuel in the line ready for the next start.

I think the best place for the check valve would be at the tank if you can swing it, but I also think it would work fine at the regulator.
 
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Wildman

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My thought is that the check valve can go anywhere on the inbound fuel line between the tank and the regulator. The pressure regulator (if functioning properly) will not let the pressure at the rail bleed down - it should only open when the line pressure exceeds the setting, and the pump has to be running to do that.

The purpose of the check valve is not to maintain pressure, but rather just to keep fuel in the line ready for the next start.

I think the best place for the check valve would be at the tank if you can swing it, but I also think it would work fine at the regulator.

I think I'll try it next to the regulator first and then I can always move it next to the tank if that doesn't seem to work. And thanks for the input.
 
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Looks like I've got to search thru boxes again. I bought the correct face plate for my AEM transmission temp gauge but am not sure where it is. And I need to find the O2 sensor bungs since I need to weld the downstream sensor bung onto the exhaust.

I started off working on my grill and trying to get it cleaned and ready to install so I can get the radiator mounted. I had to replace one of the headlight buckets as I'd broken one of the adjuster pockets and the headlight would just sit there and flop around.

Then I pulled the power steering & transmission coolers I have mounted since I have a ton of old leaked fluid that needs to be cleaned up. Got some of it cleaned up and will finish that tomorrow. Here is the mount I made for the two coolers I have mounted.

20221202_143028.jpg


I just welded some flat stock across the support V rod.

20221202_143047.jpg


Back when I taken the Jeep apart I'd pulled the body harness that goes across the grill for the headlights and also connects to the horns & washer bottle. Since I'd reloomed the engine harness I decided to do the same to this harness since a lot of the plastic look was cracked and broken. I took all the old plastic looming off.



20221202_162836.jpg


And then used the Painless Looming. Looks a HELL of a lot better IMO.

20221202_173520.jpg


This is the plug that connects to the wiring harness where it goes thru the tub on the firewall.

20221202_173534.jpg



And the headlight plugs.

20221202_173554.jpg


Now to fish it back thru the top of the grill.