Funny you say that. I've got one I'd bought for the RV that I've never used. I've been considering setting it up for the house. It's only $13 more a month than what I'm paying now.
Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift
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Funny you say that. I've got one I'd bought for the RV that I've never used. I've been considering setting it up for the house. It's only $13 more a month than what I'm paying now.
Crawled around under the Jeep to check the crankshaft sensor and wiring. It's not close to the exhaust but I'll put some heat shielding on it just to be safe.
Found one of the JJ's snap rings popped loose so I'll need to remove that tomorrow morning and fix it.
Found one of the JJ's snap rings popped loose so I'll need to remove that tomorrow morning and fix it.
I live in a well connected area. But - for the hate of being beholden to Comcast - so I checked into the monthly. Still needs more users to bring the price closer.
Throughput - we're mostly streaming 1, maybe 2, TVs. I know we may need wired when the twins get older and become (enviably) gamers...
But I like the idea of an alternative.
I've had some coworkers run in Starlink — and results are impressive thus far into their experience and this early into Starlink building constellations.
Been there my early test drives!
Scary, so very happy you caught it. I was only driving slow on backroads, a little more than a driveway, but now much since it was horribly aligned. Caught mine on a check after the test drive, much like you.
Glad you caught it!!
I'm on a few Starlink groups on FB so I'm reading about all the good connection speeds they get. Right now I'm wireless and the antenna is across the canyon from me so when the wind is blowing there's a few trees that block the signal.
I've still got a Hughes Net mount on my roof I could put the Starlink antenna on. It's the Gen 2 version so I'd leave it here on the house and just get one of the newer Starlink antennas once I start traveling for the RV. You can get the new Gen 3 for $300 and who knows by next year there might be a Gen 4.
We're sitting at 53% but I'm worried that it's stalled again because I'd lost internet connection for a few seconds about 2 minutes ago.
It's the drivers side axle JJ that popped loose.
And I've got to work on the brakes some more and try to get the BRAKE light on the dash to stop coming on. I have good pedal so I'm not sure what it is.
Got the video to restart finally and it's sitting at 58% now. Says I've got 1 hour & 48 minutes left to finish uploading the video. It's a 6GB file.
Took a min to get a chance to listen to the video. Sounds great! Not obnoxious when you're riding along. And all 'I'm here' when you hit the throttle. I like it!
I have a friend that lives in the mountains outside of Salmon. They used to use 2 Hughesnet subscriptions to provide the bandwidth they needed. They are an older couple who are care providers for 2 at risk young men. The Hughesnet barely kept up with their day to day internet demands and buffered some when they were all streaming or gaming and streaming. They replaced both Hughesnet dishes with 1 Starlink subscription and they don't have any more buffering. Oh and the call quality when wifi calling, is every bit as good ias direct connectivity to a cell tower.
The biggest complaint I have heard from any of the people on the mail route that have starlink is that the stock wireless router doesn't have the best range once you step outside of the home. The solution to that is piggbacking a good quality network router and use it for all your wireless needs.
Like I told Rich the Magnum had more of a burble & throaty sound to it which is expected due to the cam & stroker crank that was in it. While I liked it & the sound of it I do like the quieter sound of the Hemi.
Please don't do it! Wait...
But I can't wait for you to rip that engine wide open!!
Care for it like it deserves!Sounds great when you bump or us the throttle. You've lost the sleeper aspect...
Looking for the crankshaft position sensor I can still get the MoPar sensor but as always it's more expensive than other brands.
I ordered a Dorman version for $20. Figured I'd give it shot and see what happens with it. But I can also get the MoPar sensor for $78. Right now I'm tempted to wait on ordering the MoPar part. And yes I know I'm taking a chance going with the Dorman sensor instead.
I ordered a Dorman version for $20. Figured I'd give it shot and see what happens with it. But I can also get the MoPar sensor for $78. Right now I'm tempted to wait on ordering the MoPar part. And yes I know I'm taking a chance going with the Dorman sensor instead.
That must have felt great, Richardo.
Is that the check gauges light / chime going off?
I can’t believe that air line blew - at the exact moment you said you were happy with the first road test. Jeeps…
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Thanks Jeff, it felt GREAT....
That was the Brake light beeping. I need to go back & read the FSM and see when & why that light would illuminate & the beep sound.
Of course it blew just then... I've just bypassed the hoses going to the gauges for right now until I can replace that hose with something that works.
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Maybe the brake system thinks the parking brake is on? I don't even have a proportion valve so that connector is just sitting there. I also removed almost all the bulbs in the cluster so who knows
Maybe the brake system thinks the parking brake is on? I don't even have a proportion valve so that connector is just sitting there. I also removed almost all the bulbs in the cluster so who knows
I think the shuttle valve isn't allowing equal flow to the rear brakes. From BMB's website.
The shuttle valve is what sets off the brake light and alarm. Is the light going off and on, on staying on solid?
Going Off & ON plus when I was bleeding the brakes it seemed like I wasn't getting as much fluid out of the rear calipers as I was the front.
The shuttle valve moves when there is a pressure differnce between the front and rear systems, shutting off flow to the system with less pressure, and setting off the light. If the light is going on and off, the shuttle valve is likely working properly. That may point to air in the rear lines.
To properly bleed, you need to “disengage” the shuttle valve using a tool like Blaine’s.
That could be. I've got those brake line locks which might be causing me issues.
If I pumped the brakes a few times the light would stop flashing which normally would indicate air in the lines but the pedal is firm all the time which isn't an indicator of air in the lines. I'll get a chance to test out my new brake bleeder today.
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