Will I be disappointed with Currie Antirock for on-road driving?

Jerry Bransford said:
I see jivw's point but I'm not taking my Antirock off its loosest setting. It works well for me as it is and I don't feel any stability issues.
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But what if it's a billion percent better and even more stable offroad? Remember driving a rig with too much air and shit shocks. Then driving one with the right air pressure and good shocks? What if it's like that? Not saying it would be that drastic but it would be neat to hear your opinion after a trip to the big rocks on say the middle setting on your AR. I think you have enough experience on some of those trails to be able to notice a difference if there was one.
 
I actually believe I'd have to cut adjustment rod to even experience it. If I remember correctly, threaded all the way, both ends
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Bird said:
The OP asked " will I be disappointed with AR for on-road driving "
And I responded.......having no issues with AR on softest setting.

I installed new shocks and coils and simply don't experience roll to the degree of being dissatisfied.
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Most who are disappointed by the AR on the street are unhappy with the increased body roll. This increase in roll is a real phenomena. Good shocks will go a long way towards mitigating body roll. I have experienced this to a fairly good degree with my shock work. The rumor from those who have the opportunity to play with really good shocks is that body roll can be almost entirely eliminated by shocks, while still having a comfortable ride. At that point, sway bars on an off road vehicle largely exist for their movement control during articulation and weight transfer. My argument to go stiff without restricting travel would still apply.

For those of us without the really nice shocks, we can still enjoy the fringe benefits of reduced body roll from setting our ARs to be just stiff enough.
 
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I've had my Antirock on for about a week now on the softest setting. Surprised how tight it is, I almost miss the body roll from running without a swaybar. This weekend I get to see how it handles offroad.

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jjvw said:
Leafs are not immune to the benefits of antisway bars. The only reasons we don't see them very often is because most leaf sprung suspensions are not as flexy as links/coils often are, leafs are typically slower to move compared to links/coils, and the world has become more sophisticated in its suspension designs - leaving leafs behind.
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I'm talking Mustangs and Camaros. They were all coils and supposedly sporty. You are right about sophistication.... spelt complexity but until the 1980s nothing came with sway bars. Even the first Corvettes never had sway bars. Sway bars became relevant as roads and race track surfaces improved. Not sure where TJs travel even compares. As for the leaf/coil comparison..... there have been plenty of long travel soft sprung leaf suspensions. Coils are simply the easy, cost effective solution. Every now and then some innovator, engineer makes a statement with leaf springs. If it was all about choice, we would see more coil over or McPherson Strut and independent suspension. But we are the fringe. Coils win because they reduce unsprung weight. Leafs win because they control axle placement with less complexity. Plus Minus, either one can do the same thing.

The need or reason for sway bars has nothing to do with the choice of coil vs leaf springs. But the Currie Anti Rock is pretty much the ultimate compromise between no sway bar vs stock sway bar.
 
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Well I got my Swayloc installed today. Very easy swap. Like the Antirock, it has a series of holes to adjust the individual rates. I had previously had my Antirock all the way at the stiffest hole. On the Swayloc I chose the second loosest setting to start.

Very first impression on the test drive was "Oh ****" when I heard a very loud clunk. Spent 5 minutes trying to figure out what broke. Turns out I forgot to close my tire carrier...

Once I actually got on the road, it was apparent that it significantly improved the ride. It's not a miracle, but it definitely made the ride feel more solid. The steering feels more precise and easier to control. I can take turns faster without departing the lane. The rig just feels more planted, much like a new pickup truck.

I did notice a slight increase in the harshness of one front tire hitting an obstacle such as a large pothole, but it's not significant. Certainly didn't bother me. If it did I could always set the rate looser.

Disconnecting the switch brings it back to Antirock-like handling. Same body roll, same compliant front end.

In summary, the Swayloc upgrade seems to be very much worth the cost. I will be selling the Antirock shortly.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Very first impression on the test drive was "Oh ****" when I heard a very loud clunk. Spent 5 minutes trying to figure out what broke. Turns out I forgot to close my tire carrier...
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I forget to latch my tire carrier way too often and it does scare the crap out of me when it bangs back & forth. I'm blaming my advanced age. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Well I got my Swayloc installed today. Very easy swap. Like the Antirock, it has a series of holes to adjust the individual rates. I had previously had my Antirock all the way at the stiffest hole. On the Swayloc I chose the second loosest setting to start.

Very first impression on the test drive was "Oh ****" when I heard a very loud clunk. Spent 5 minutes trying to figure out what broke. Turns out I forgot to close my tire carrier...

Once I actually got on the road, it was apparent that it significantly improved the ride. It's not a miracle, but it definitely made the ride feel more solid. The steering feels more precise and easier to control. I can take turns faster without departing the lane. The rig just feels more planted, much like a new pickup truck.

I did notice a slight increase in the harshness of one front tire hitting an obstacle such as a large pothole, but it's not significant. Certainly didn't bother me. If it did I could always set the rate looser.

Disconnecting the switch brings it back to Antirock-like handling. Same body roll, same compliant front end.

In summary, the Swayloc upgrade seems to be very much worth the cost. I will be selling the Antirock shortly.
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Looking forward to the longer term review. I have an anti rock as well.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Well I got my Swayloc installed today. Very easy swap. . . .
[snip]
In summary, the Swayloc upgrade seems to be very much worth the cost. I will be selling the Antirock shortly.
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I am interested in your long term impressions of the differences between the Currie Anti-Rock and the Swayloc, and if you will still feel that changing over is worth the expense after you have used your Swayloc for a few months.

I am not at all disappointed in my A/R, but have been intrigued by the Swayloc's ability to run a stiffer swaybar on the street and looser swaybar offroad simply by moving a lever. Had I given the Swayloc more consideration before I purchased my A/R I probably would have chosen it, but I got a "today only" screaming hot deal on the A/R and just couldn't say "no."

I have no problem selling my A/R and spending a few hundred dollars more of my children's inheritance to change over to a Swayloc if it is a better mousetrap.
 
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jjvw said:
Leafs are not immune to the benefits of antisway bars. The only reasons we don't see them very often is because most leaf sprung suspensions are not as flexy as links/coils often are, leafs are typically slower to move compared to links/coils, and the world has become more sophisticated in its suspension designs - leaving leafs behind.
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Leaf springs have body roll resistance, but can't alter effective spring rates across the axle. In the early 90s I wanted to build a CJ7 with either a missing link or goofy leaf. I got into road racing motorcycles and didn't have the time or money for a second hobby. As far as leafs being flexy...

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I have a love hate relationship with my Antirock. The ride is much improved, but stability suffers. I don't fear for my life, but body roll is a downer. I have considered making a quick disconnect on the top link with a stud in the first and last hole to make it easy to stiffen it up on the road and soften it up easily for the trail.

I ended up in the softest setting after looking at the bumpstops on obstacles. In the middle hole the rear bumpstop was almost bottomed out on the cup and there was about an inch before the front touched. After seeing this on three different obstacles I moved it and then moved it again after a few more obstacles. Different Jeep weight and spring rate will influence settings.

From the instructions.

Test drive the vehicle. The sway bar rate may be increased by moving the linkage forward toward the bumper, thus shortening the arm, and vice-versa, the sway bar rate may be decreased by moving the linkage backward toward the rearend, they lengthening the arm. NOTE: Each hole forward that you move the linkage you will lose approximately 1/2” of articulation.
 
Brianj5600 said:
I have a love hate relationship with my Antirock. The ride is much improved, but stability suffers. I don't fear for my life, but body roll is a downer.
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My bet on the cause of that is either the wrong shocks, blown out shocks, or they're just too soft for your Jeep. I take my TJ through tight twisty mountain/desert roads regularly while towing my pop-up trailer and I really don't notice any body roll. My Antirock is set on its loosest setting and my Rancho RS9000x shocks are set on their #1 least stiff setting which is still fairly firm.
 
I see shocks as bandaid for lack of roll stiffness. Shocks can only slow down body roll, but not reduce body roll. I could see shocks having an affect on lane changes, but any sustained turning or off camber, shocks will settle in the same place.
 
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