Will superglue work on the plastic dash bezels?
- Thread starter WLDRIDE
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
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I used JB weld plastic bonder and a piece of self adhesive drywall under it. I started off with some gutter guard as a backing but the drywall mesh was much easier to work with. I think the JB weld comes in clear too.
Starting with post #42.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/painting-door-panels-with-sem-paint.26094/page-3#post-424102
Starting with post #42.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/painting-door-panels-with-sem-paint.26094/page-3#post-424102
OP
I'm just glueing where some of these little cross pieces meet. So, I just need really small drops of glue on the back side.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
That is a good question. A couple of my little cross pieces are also broke where they meet. I noticed it a little over a year ago and figured I'd fix it someday. I guess maybe Someday Never Comes
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
That is a commonly broken piece-
My best advice- run the defroster on a cold day before removal and be gentle .
Back to the thread... reinforcement is the key to longevity , as the above mentioned , as the surface area of the crack is really small, and the leverage is huge considering the length vs the repaired area.
Vehicles flex more than people think , but a Jeep frame and tub is relatively rigid , compared to a modern pick up truck for example .
My best advice- run the defroster on a cold day before removal and be gentle .
Back to the thread... reinforcement is the key to longevity , as the above mentioned , as the surface area of the crack is really small, and the leverage is huge considering the length vs the repaired area.
Vehicles flex more than people think , but a Jeep frame and tub is relatively rigid , compared to a modern pick up truck for example .
I had to fix that same part in my TJ not long ago. I used super glue and it worked fine. I think any plastic glue will work to fix that grill.
OP
They make a new UV glue that sounds ideal for this type of use. It comes out as a thin line of glue (sort of like a caulk type of consistency) and when you have everything where you want it you shine a small UV light on the adhesive and it sets up almost instantly.
The defrost grill trim is one of the more easily glued plastics since it is ABS which responds very well to the cyanoacrylate adhesives and especially those formulated to be plastic specific. Be aware that the grill bits are very fragile and will continue to break in other places. I recommend and prefer just breaking it all out and then using something like JB Weld's plastic formulation to glue in some stainless wire mesh. I've done several that way and they work much better.
It's already been said, but super glue will work just fine. Bonds abs plastic very well. Scuffing it a bit is a must sometimes. Not in this case though.
Just a secondary tip. To prevent your plastic from getting permanently covered in the annoying white haze after the glue's curing process, you can sprinkle baking soda on the glue just as soon as you put the glue on. It will cure nearly in an instant. No long and drawn out curing process and fumes messing up the looks of the plastic.
I've been meaning to test an idea I've had recently. I've been meaning to try misting a mixture of baking soda in rubbing alcohol onto the wet glue instead. On big areas, the dry, "sprinkle method" baking soda might make the glue's surface a little course.
I'm with @Andy G a bit on this one though. I don't know if I wouldn't try E6000 on that piece. It makes a really strong bond, but it isn't rock hard like super glue. It comes out like silicone and smells like it, but much stronger of course.
Just a secondary tip. To prevent your plastic from getting permanently covered in the annoying white haze after the glue's curing process, you can sprinkle baking soda on the glue just as soon as you put the glue on. It will cure nearly in an instant. No long and drawn out curing process and fumes messing up the looks of the plastic.
I've been meaning to test an idea I've had recently. I've been meaning to try misting a mixture of baking soda in rubbing alcohol onto the wet glue instead. On big areas, the dry, "sprinkle method" baking soda might make the glue's surface a little course.
I'm with @Andy G a bit on this one though. I don't know if I wouldn't try E6000 on that piece. It makes a really strong bond, but it isn't rock hard like super glue. It comes out like silicone and smells like it, but much stronger of course.
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