Windshield hinge removal and powder coat questions

Camhabib

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
273
Location
Boston, MA
The windshield and door hinges on my TJ are pretty badly rusted (big surprise). I was just going to replace them until I saw the price. Instead, I’m considering just taking them off and getting powder coated. The door hinges on the body and doors themselves came off super easily, but before I tackled the windshield hinges I wanted to ask a couple quick questions.

1 - Are the only bolts the exterior ones or are there any interior ones to remove?

2 - Does removing the hinges effect the windshield adhesive / seal or that’ll be fine?

3 - Do the bolts have threadlock on them? I only have a torch handy but rather avoid destroying the paint by heating them up like that.

4 - Has anyone powder-coated theirs? How did it hold up / function after?

5 - Any others tips or suggestions?
 
There are no interior bolts to remove those hinges, only the bolts on the exterior.

Removing the hinges does not affect the windshield seal / adhesive.

The bolts do have thread lock on them. Mine had blue thread lock on both TJs I've owned. A torch comes in handy, as does Liquid Wrench or Kroil.

I didn't powder coat mine, I had them repainted to match the vehicle.

My suggestion is to get a torx bit and hammer it in there very good so it's snug. Once you do that, get a large breaker bar and break them loose. They are a bitch to get off, and very, very easily strip (hence why I always hammer the torx bit in).

Lastly, when you put the new ones on, BE SURE to use anti-seize on them!
 
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There are no interior bolts to remove those hinges, only the bolts on the exterior.

Removing the hinges does not affect the windshield seal / adhesive.

The bolts do have thread lock on them. Mine had blue thread lock on both TJs I've owned. A torch comes in handy, as does Liquid Wrench or Kroil.

I didn't powder coat mine, I had them repainted to match the vehicle.

My suggestion is to get a torx bit and hammer it in there very good so it's snug. Once you do that, get a large breaker bar and break them loose. They are a bitch to get off, and very, very easily strip (hence why I always hammer the torx bit in).

Lastly, when you put the new ones on, BE SURE to use anti-seize on them!
Really appreciate it. Was considering repainting them but they’re pretty beat up and look like they could benefit from some sandblasting, which I can’t do myself, and figured I would just find someone who can do both blasting and coating.

From reading it’s a T40, correct?
 
Really appreciate it. Was considering repainting them but they’re pretty beat up and look like they could benefit from some sandblasting, which I can’t do myself, and figured I would just find someone who can do both blasting and coating.

From reading it’s a T40, correct?

Yes.

You can score a used set on eBay in good condition that won't require any media blasting and can easily be painted.

Here's some for instance:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=132808297872
 
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Sorry to hi-jack, but would it be advisable to use a 1/2” impact wrench on the hinges?
I was always taught to apply a gradual force on bolts to prevent snapping. Impact drivers are great for getting things out, hand tools are great for getting them out in one piece.
 
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Oh an do not buy cheap chinese bits, get real torx bits from someone like APEX and an Apex holder, if not they can strip or break easily.
 
Check these out. Cheap. Bet you could have 'em shipped flat rate through USPS. Just an idea...

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/vancouver-jeep-wrangler-tj-hinges/6959470897.html

1566355779834.png
 
They make similar hand tool. Looks like a real fat screwdriver that can take various tips. Hit the back with a hammer. Takes 3/8?? Bits, not 1/4. I'll go with Impact Screwdriver. I've had good luck with them. Also, found a set of 3/8 drive impact torx made of tool steel. Astro Pneumatic 10 PC set on Amazon. If put the wip to them and they are holding up great. Don't know how to do that link to a page thing, but there aren't many torx sets around. They have held up when my 1/2" set has broken apart. Hope that can help any non=air compressor people out there.
 
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Just checked it. It has a standard3/8 drive head with an adapter to take hex shank bits. Comes with #2, 3, 4 Phillips and 3 flat tip bits.
 
They make similar hand tool. Looks like a real fat screwdriver that can take various tips. Hit the back with a hammer. Takes 3/8?? Bits, not 1/4. I'll go with Impact Screwdriver. I've had good luck with them. Also, found a set of 3/8 drive impact torx made of tool steel. Astro Pneumatic 10 PC set on Amazon. If put the wip to them and they are holding up great. Don't know how to do that link to a page thing, but there aren't many torx sets around. They have held up when my 1/2" set has broken apart. Hope that can help any non=air compressor people out there.
hand impact drivers suck compared to the screw knocker...I have used both, the screw knocker will just rattle and with a little pressure, the screws will just start to spin out, no hammer involved...