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Wiring harness connector bodies

mrblaine

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I’m finding a few broken bodies in my harness that I’d like to replace. Does anyone have a source for replacement bodies or an I better off hitting up a breaker to get them from?

@Jamison C @rasband @mrblaine

First place I would check is Mark @ WranglerFix. If you find a source for new ones that are cheaper than those fools on facebook, post it up.
 
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rasband

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Mike_H

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Placed an order for connectors tonight. Here is my list. It includes the X-mas Tree pins that hold the connectors with the red slide locks (Jeep uses these all over the place). Prices aren't terrible and they were all in stock. I'll post back when they come in, just to verify, but I'm pretty sure these are the same. Been pouring over data sheets and checking whatever part numbers I can find.

The 3-way Female APEX 2.8's are used for the locker sensors...The 4-way APEX 2.8's are what they used on the Fuel Pump module and the ignition coil rail. The 4-pos CAP HOUSING is, near as I can tell, the O2 sensor (bank2, Upstream) connector, and the HSG Plus 2 pos sensor is one of my speed sensors for the transmission.
1663892243226.png
 
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Mike_H

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Here is another site I found that sells the bodies as kits, with terminals included


Watch the body types...different types of bodies are not compatible. For instance a 3 position type A will not fit into a 3 position Type B. This is a form of error proofing the automakers use to prevent misassembly during the build process.

And the informational brochure


And, if you really want to get into the weeds...here is the Sales presentation for this family of connectors...


@Chris not sure if this is a "resource" or not, but thought I'd tag you, just in case.
 
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Mike_H

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My connectors came in today, and I can say, without a shadow of a doubt, the connectors are the same. The only issue is that the 4 position bodies I bought didn't include the male body lock...Not sure if that was a configuration I missed or if they were supposed to be included and were not. The three position bodies included them, so I have a note in to Mouser to see what's what.

In case anyone is interested in how these things work...Depinning the factory connectors. This is the 4 pin connector for the fuel pump module.

1664329747389.png


Step 1, remove the primary end lock. This is on the wire end and pops off with a small screwdriver. You need to give a gentle pry on both sides of this style.
1664329767926.png


Once that pops off, you'll see a rubber grommet that fits over the wires and seals against the housing. Pull that out of the way with your screwdriver too.
1664329864480.png


Next turn the connector around and look into the front. There is a blue'ish colored secondary lock. You'll need to stick a screwdriver into the top of the connector and release the lock. Doesn't take much force (none of this does...so that's your warning to not go He-Man on them).
1664329944974.png


Once you release the lock, you'll use a small needle nose pliers and pull the lock out from the front.

1664330016674.png


Finally, You can release the terminals. This can be tricky the first time you do it, but once you figure it out, its pretty easy.

Looking into the end, there are little tabs that hold the wire terminals. The terminal is the silver thing you see, the tab is black, like the rest of the body. The tab has a protrusion that sticks down into a cutoutin the terminal. Lifting the tab away from the terminal allows the wire to be pulled out of the back of the connector body. In this picture, I circled one of the lock tabs in red.

1664374682101.png


And, with a small screwdriver lifting it away from the terminal.

1664374629293.png


After that, pull the grommet and end lock off the wires and viola!

Assembly goes in the reverse order. Pay attention to the terminals, some of them only have a cavity for the lock on one side. If you don't orient them correctly, they will pull/push out and the male tabs won't insert.

hopes this helps someone fix their factory harness with factory pieces. In my opinion its WAY better to fix it this way than use butt splice or going and putting some other style connector on. This maintains factory intent and makes the service manuals usable to those in the future.
 
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mrblaine

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My connectors came in today, and I can say, without a shadow of a doubt, the connectors are the same. The only issue is that the 4 position bodies I bought didn't include the male body lock...Not sure if that was a configuration I missed or if they were supposed to be included and were not. The three position bodies included them, so I have a note in to Mouser to see what's what.

In case anyone is interested in how these things work...Depinning the factory connectors. This is the 4 pin connector for the fuel pump module.

View attachment 362564

Step 1, remove the primary end lock. This is on the wire end and pops off with a small screwdriver. You need to give a gentle pry on both sides of this style.
View attachment 362565

Once that pops off, you'll see a rubber grommet that fits over the wires and seals against the housing. Pull that out of the way with your screwdriver too.
View attachment 362568

Next turn the connector around and look into the front. There is a blue'ish colored secondary lock. You'll need to stick a screwdriver into the top of the connector and release the lock. Doesn't take much force (none of this does...so that's your warning to not go He-Man on them).
View attachment 362569

Once you release the lock, you'll use a small needle nose pliers and pull the lock out from the front.

View attachment 362570

Finally, You can release the terminals. This can be tricky the first time you do it, but once you figure it out, its pretty easy.

Looking into the end, there are little tabs that hold the wire terminals. You need to lift them up and pull on the wire to get them out of the housing. In this picture, I circled one of the lock tabs in red

View attachment 362573

And, with a small screwdriver lifting it up...

View attachment 362574

After that, pull the grommet and end lock off the wires and viola!

Assembly goes in the reverse order. Pay attention to the terminals, some of them only have a cavity for the lock on one side. If you don't orient them correctly, they will pull/push out and the male tabs won't insert.

hopes this helps someone fix their factory harness with factory pieces. In my opinion its WAY better to fix it this way than use butt splice or going and putting some other style connector on. This maintains factory intent and makes the service manuals usable to those in the future.

It may be easier to folks to understand to release the lock that holds the crimped on terminal into the connector housing, you push it over to the side away from the terminal, not lift up on it. I have to be able to visualize how they work before I can get them apart otherwise I tend to break things.
 
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Mike_H

Mike_H

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It may be easier to folks to understand to release the lock that holds the crimped on terminal into the connector housing, you push it over to the side away from the terminal, not lift up on it. I have to be able to visualize how they work before I can get them apart otherwise I tend to break things.

You definitely lift up. It can’t really move to the side. If my picture makes it look like I’m moving it to the side, it’s only because I needed three hands to hold the thing and my camera.

Edit: looking at my picture again, it’s rotated funny, so “up” is relative. I’ll see if I can fix that and it should be more clear. Lifting away from the crimped terminal is also a better way to describe the action
 
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