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My connectors came in today, and I can say, without a shadow of a doubt, the connectors are the same. The only issue is that the 4 position bodies I bought didn't include the male body lock...Not sure if that was a configuration I missed or if they were supposed to be included and were not. The three position bodies included them, so I have a note in to Mouser to see what's what.
In case anyone is interested in how these things work...Depinning the factory connectors. This is the 4 pin connector for the fuel pump module.
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Step 1, remove the primary end lock. This is on the wire end and pops off with a small screwdriver. You need to give a gentle pry on both sides of this style.
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Once that pops off, you'll see a rubber grommet that fits over the wires and seals against the housing. Pull that out of the way with your screwdriver too.
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Next turn the connector around and look into the front. There is a blue'ish colored secondary lock. You'll need to stick a screwdriver into the top of the connector and release the lock. Doesn't take much force (none of this does...so that's your warning to not go He-Man on them).
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Once you release the lock, you'll use a small needle nose pliers and pull the lock out from the front.
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Finally, You can release the terminals. This can be tricky the first time you do it, but once you figure it out, its pretty easy.
Looking into the end, there are little tabs that hold the wire terminals. You need to lift them up and pull on the wire to get them out of the housing. In this picture, I circled one of the lock tabs in red
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And, with a small screwdriver lifting it up...
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After that, pull the grommet and end lock off the wires and viola!
Assembly goes in the reverse order. Pay attention to the terminals, some of them only have a cavity for the lock on one side. If you don't orient them correctly, they will pull/push out and the male tabs won't insert.
hopes this helps someone fix their factory harness with factory pieces. In my opinion its WAY better to fix it this way than use butt splice or going and putting some other style connector on. This maintains factory intent and makes the service manuals usable to those in the future.
It may be easier to folks to understand to release the lock that holds the crimped on terminal into the connector housing, you push it over to the side away from the terminal, not lift up on it. I have to be able to visualize how they work before I can get them apart otherwise I tend to break things.