Never mind the Jeep batteries are AGM. I was thinking of something else.
I just want to know what you were thinking of.

Never mind the Jeep batteries are AGM. I was thinking of something else.
I just want to know what you were thinking of.![]()
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who suffers from this...As is often the case when I’m in the garage, I spent more time staring and thinking than actually doing anything![]()
I like that YJ plate, great idea running it instead of a TJ plate. Now I just need to figure out if I like it enough to swap out my plate.Since I have a Swayloc and therefore no stock sway bar over the frame in front of the grill, I'm using a UCF carbon steel YJ winch plate on my stock stubby bumper. This allows me to add a third bolt on each side for strength and eliminates the cut outs for around the stock sway bar brackets for aesthetics.
...Turns out the width and depth of the TJ and YJ plates are the same, but I will need to weld and re-drill the rear hole and drill an extra front hole on each side to make it work.
Nice job on the build so far, I appreciate the attention to detail!
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who suffers from this...
I like that YJ plate, great idea running it instead of a TJ plate. Now I just need to figure out if I like it enough to swap out my plate.
Ironically East Penn is one of the largest battery manufactures (the largest in the US) and few know who they are. The Intimidator is a no frills AGM at a decent price.
JCI sold the automotive battery division to an investment group and branded it Clarious. They and Enersys globally are larger than East Penn. East Penn is still family owned and has the largest single production facility in the US. They have started branching globally but I doubt they could ever catch up.Aren't JCI (or whomever owns the battery division now) and Enersys (the makers of Odyssey) bigger than East Penn / Deka? I know for motive power (like industrial batteries, they are not nearly the player that Enersys and Crown are. At one time, JCI was making something like 80% of all automotive type batteries in the world.
I re-did my winch rope to drum attachment in the method of @mrblaine (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/winch-line-to-drum-attachment-wrg.69352/).
I know not everything that seems intuitively obvious is correct, but the tiny screw anchoring the line to the drum that Warn provides seems damn sketchy and Blaine obviously knows something about winches. I am not experienced in winching and having the rope solidly on the drum seems like protection against a dumb mistake. The new splice with a loop the thimble will pass through and an 8” free end:
View attachment 410736
Over the drum, back out the bottom and thimble through the loop:
View attachment 410737
Pulled snug and free end on the drum with Gorilla tape:
View attachment 410738
Then it was re-spooled under tension by attaching to the tractor and winching the Jeep up a gentle incline. Simple, and much more secure.
Next, I started fooling with making a hand throttle. I didn’t buy the kit, but I think this Sunrace bike friction shifter is the same. The shift lever is much smaller in diameter than a bike handle bar. Rather than mounting it with large rubber grommet like in the kit, I cut the bar mount from the shifter and used a rubber wrapped clamp from a hardware store and a longer screw with a nut and washer. This lowers the profile and is probably fine but I may see if I can make a cleaner more ergonomic set up using a road bike downtube friction shifter in the future:
View attachment 410739
Speaking of ergonomic, this is the best location I‘ve initially settled on. I doesn’t hit the dashboard in 1,3 or 5. Its angled and height adjusted to be easily reachable with my fingers with my palm still stabilized on the shift knob but not noticeable with normal shifting. Forward is off, back raises the RPM.
View attachment 410740
I still need an adjustable cable stop to mount near the throttle body, but I think I’ve got everything else in my spare bike parts bins.
I love my hand throttle. Looks good! Nice knot too. I want to do the same.
Thx. Did you use the TerraFlex kit? How did you do the mount? Any tips on positioning?
Somewhat different. Makes sense. I’ll need to play with the orientation once I get it hooked up.I did use the Teraflex. I could have rigged one together as a MTB’r, but $40 was cheap.
I think mine is mounted very similarly to yours Here’s a pic for reference. It’s on the left side of the shifter. I use my pointer finger and thumb to control it.
View attachment 410767
Somewhat different. Makes sense. I’ll need to play with the orientation once I get it hooked up.
I think you’re going to want the throttle on the left side of the shifter so you can use your pointer finger to pull it back for gas and your thumb to push it forward when you want to let off the gas. You want to be able to do this on the fly, as when you’re shifting.
You use it for more than just first-second gear 4 lo? It's a mod I'd like to do but only see it for raising idle a few hundred in low,or higher for winching or steep ascents
I probably use it 80+% of the time off-road. This may be bc I’m trying to be conscious of my rpm’s due to the Tera-4-Low and that’s easier to do with the hand throttle. I am usually in 4L and 2nd gear, but I do shift into 1st and 3rd. If I need to go to 4th I just shift the TCase to 4H bc I t’s 4th and 5th in 4L where the rpm’s in the planetaries get so high it can blow them up! I occasionally use it on road when starting on a steep incline, though it’s not really necessary, and then use it to shift into 2nd just for fun.
I think the hand throttle just works better on the left side because of our dexterity with our thumbs. The other side would be awkward, but you might adjust. One guy mounted a tractor hand throttle on the dash next to the steering wheel. I need to check back with him and see if he likes it.
I think you should try driving without the hand throttle. I've never felt the need for it with 4:1.