Yeah, the main thing is overcoming obstacles in the least eventful way. Whatever works for you.
Woodrow's 97 Green TJ Moderate Build
- Thread starter Woodrow
- Start date
Yeah, the main thing is overcoming obstacles in the least eventful way. Whatever works for you.
Why does that matter? Not tracking.
I also have a onboard welder so I used the hand throttle to fun the welder.
Your foot bounces on teh gas pedal as you go over rough terrain with an auto as much as a manual, so for that aspect a hand throttle is valuable.
Think about what happens when you rev it up and then put it in gear Like we both just said,its for accessories. Not for driving with an auto.
Think about what happens when you rev it up and then put it in gear Like we both just said,its for accessories. Not for driving with an auto.
Well you do have to have a brain to use the hand throttle. And as JMT just said your foot can bounce just as much in an auto as a manual so YES you can use it to drive with.
So you do understand,i figured you were just being obstinate.
I think you are . The fact if it's a auto or manual IMO is a moot point.
Not really. Each type of trans is going to act differently with a hand throttle. I wouldn't want to fumble a shifter or lever to get my jeep to stop. Compared to just pushing in the clutch and being able to feather the power.
You know all this you grouchy ol bastard.you just want to argue with me,lol. #LS swap!
Sorry woody!
A lot of drama over a hand throttle.
The main goal, however you do it, is to go over obstacles as uneventfully as possible. It works well for me most of the time, and other times I want the pedal. The hand throttle gives you more than one option.
Sorry for the disruption to your thread @Woodrow
The main goal, however you do it, is to go over obstacles as uneventfully as possible. It works well for me most of the time, and other times I want the pedal. The hand throttle gives you more than one option.
Sorry for the disruption to your thread @Woodrow
Finished installing the hand throttle. I needed an adjustable cable stop which I found rooting around in a bike mechanic’s spare parts bin at a local shop. Then I pulled the throttle cable bracket off the intake to drill it and mount the cable stop.
The rest of it was straight forward. I had a nice new spare Shimano shifter cable and housing on the shelf in the garage. That was run from the friction shifter mounted previously through the shift boot, console, firewall grommet, along the regular throttle cable, to the bracket and throttle body.
It works as expected and has nice smooth action. Time will tell on the location and shift lever. I did try the driver’s side as @JMT suggested but it felt a little awkward to me and I had to mount in higher there so it seemed more noticeable in normal shifting. But hard to say without more seat time.
The rest of it was straight forward. I had a nice new spare Shimano shifter cable and housing on the shelf in the garage. That was run from the friction shifter mounted previously through the shift boot, console, firewall grommet, along the regular throttle cable, to the bracket and throttle body.
It works as expected and has nice smooth action. Time will tell on the location and shift lever. I did try the driver’s side as @JMT suggested but it felt a little awkward to me and I had to mount in higher there so it seemed more noticeable in normal shifting. But hard to say without more seat time.
Humans are very adept. How are you manipulating the lever in that position? Do you use your pinky and ring finger?
Nice install. It looks good around the throttle. Nice tight fit. No play.
Index and long to pull
and push
with palmar base of thumb stabilizing hand against the passenger side of the shift knob.
Some little things:
1. Re-aimed the head lights. No pics, but they’ve been a little mal-aligned ever since I took the grill off for the engine swap (over 18 mos ago
) Better now.
2. Oil change. Nice to have the starter and block ground wires out of the way of the filter. Also sent an oil sample to Blackstone labs for analysis. The Golen stroker has 8000 mi on it now and I’d like to see how its doing and if the zinc level is in the range I think with the additive.
3. Picked up a Bartact velcro holder for the fire extinguisher. It seems nice and secure. No more rolling around under the seat. Also it’s made in USA which makes me happy.
4. I pulled the silicone covers off my shock shafts. I’m not sure why I didn’t do it before. I’ve never used covers on fork stanchions or shock shafts on motorcycles and mountain bikes. The rear boots were holding some water, too. Since the shafts are exposed, I can clean and lube them ever now and then, just like the bikes.
SRAM butter is a mountain bike thing that is always on my shelf. They used to call it Judy butter way back before SRAM bought out RockShox.
1. Re-aimed the head lights. No pics, but they’ve been a little mal-aligned ever since I took the grill off for the engine swap (over 18 mos ago
) Better now.2. Oil change. Nice to have the starter and block ground wires out of the way of the filter. Also sent an oil sample to Blackstone labs for analysis. The Golen stroker has 8000 mi on it now and I’d like to see how its doing and if the zinc level is in the range I think with the additive.
3. Picked up a Bartact velcro holder for the fire extinguisher. It seems nice and secure. No more rolling around under the seat. Also it’s made in USA which makes me happy.
4. I pulled the silicone covers off my shock shafts. I’m not sure why I didn’t do it before. I’ve never used covers on fork stanchions or shock shafts on motorcycles and mountain bikes. The rear boots were holding some water, too. Since the shafts are exposed, I can clean and lube them ever now and then, just like the bikes.
SRAM butter is a mountain bike thing that is always on my shelf. They used to call it Judy butter way back before SRAM bought out RockShox.
If you mean a winch guard like this one from Savvy which uses the tow hook bolts to mount, I'm sure you could but like everything, it may or may not require some minor mods.
That particular winch (Warn 9.5XP) has a big motor for a mid frame winch (6.5hp, I think). @Blackjack could be more informative, I am sure. The clearance on the motor/passenger side is tight but I think its do-able.
Just a tip.
I did the throttle connection a little different, my OCD got to me when I saw the HT cable bind up when the FT was actuated. I went to a wrecking yard and picked up the little cover that attaches the spring like in your photo. I found the HT cable threaded through it like the spring does and it clips on the opposite side of the FT cable. I then put an cable lock that is used on RC airplane linkages.
This set up allows the cable to slide through the cap and not bind up when using the FT.
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