Woodrow's 97 Green TJ Moderate Build

Well let’s see. Trying to tie this all together…
Not my birthday. But my Jeep is from the 90’s. And I did get a present today (Partial. Only 1 showed up). Hopefully the other 4 will arrive sometime soon?
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I don't FEEL old... I just happen to have been around for a few more years then you. I was 16 in 77....

I guess I don't really feel old...What makes me feel old is talking to my employees, one of which is also a neighbor. I've lived in my house longer than he's been alive, and I bought the thing when I was 23. But he's old enough to work...that's messed up. Similar to your training the enlisted guys thing, I'm sure.
 
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Big things are starting. After this year’s wheeling adventures (Moab and the Rubicon), phase 2 of my build has begun to take shape. Namely, additional armor, 35s and an Atlas. Armor not ordered yet. The 35s and Coyote bead locks have arrived. The 2-speed 5.0:1 Atlas has been here. My plan is:
1) Install the Atlas and decide on order T-case skid (+/- separate transmission crossmember)
2) Install the 35s w/ Coyote bead-locks while I wait for driveshafts
3) Corner armor and engine skid
I’ve already got other things in mind too but lets see how all this goes first. I expect issues.
So, today I pulled the Jeep into the garage to begin the above. I realized relatively recently that I need a transmission jack to install the Atlas. There are many options, but as I will be using my lift, I got this one:
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It will elevate the tray to 68.5”.
Next, I pulled the T-case out of its box and inventoried the parts (AA says do this with in 7 days of receipt-missed that by a few months but all seems present.
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After some reading, I decided to test assemble the shifter first to make sure I understand how it all works. It comes with bushings that press into the linkage (probably Derlin?). I used a bolt, nut and some washers with a little grease. That went fine.
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Here’s the assembly:
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I verified it shifts well. Tomorrow, I will start to pull the 231.
 
Big things are starting. After this year’s wheeling adventures (Moab and the Rubicon), phase 2 of my build has begun to take shape. Namely, additional armor, 35s and an Atlas. Armor not ordered yet. The 35s and Coyote bead locks have arrived. The 2-speed 5.0:1 Atlas has been here. My plan is:
1) Install the Atlas and decide on order T-case skid (+/- separate transmission crossmember)
2) Install the 35s w/ Coyote bead-locks while I wait for driveshafts
3) Corner armor and engine skid
I’ve already got other things in mind too but lets see how all this goes first. I expect issues.
So, today I pulled the Jeep into the garage to begin the above. I realized relatively recently that I need a transmission jack to install the Atlas. There are many options, but as I will be using my lift, I got this one:
View attachment 494968
It will elevate the tray to 68.5”.
Next, I pulled the T-case out of its box and inventoried the parts (AA says do this with in 7 days of receipt-missed that by a few months but all seems present.
View attachment 494969
After some reading, I decided to test assemble the shifter first to make sure I understand how it all works. It comes with bushings that press into the linkage (probably Derlin?). I used a bolt, nut and some washers with a little grease. That went fine.
View attachment 494970

View attachment 494972
Here’s the assembly:
View attachment 494973
I verified it shifts well. Tomorrow, I will start to pull the 231.

As much as I like the cable shifter on my Atlas, I’ve broken two cables in the time I’ve had it. That shifter does look beefy.
 
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You doing a set of 5.13s with those 35s?

Gearing and axles are certainly on my mind. My current 4.11 gears work very well with the stroker and AX15 on 33s. Even though my super 35-CrMo Dana 30 combo is supposed to be good for 35s (my Dana 30 is only 27 spline), I wonder how the current axles will do with 35s, a 5.0:1 T-case and the extra power of the stroker. Deeper axle gearing will increase the torque seen by the shafts. Lower weight and therefore drivetrain stress is one reason I went with Coyote beadlocks. But, I may just need to get beefier axles.

Short answer: Probably 4.88 ultimately, but for now, I’m holding off on re-gearing.
 
As much as I like the cable shifter on my Atlas, I’ve broken two cables in the time I’ve had it. That shifter does look beefy.

I have the Savvy cable shifter on my 231 which has been convenient as the the drivetrain-tub relationship has moved around, but I prefer the feel of a mechanical linkage. This one is nice in that its a direct connection to the gear box. Hopefully, its feels as nice in real life as it does on the bench and is reliable🤞
 
I had direct linkage on my STaK's with the first two shifters and they were a PITA to get adjusted properly. The second version was better than the first but still not great.
I'm hoping the cable shifter from NWF is the ticket for me. Hopefully I won't have cables break but should probably get a spare to carry.
 
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I had direct linkage on my STaK's with the first two shifters and they were a PITA to get adjusted properly. The second version was better than the first but still not great.
I'm hoping the cable shifter from NWF is the ticket for me. Hopefully I won't have cables break but should probably get a spare to carry.

It all new to me. Like I noted, the direct linkage works well on the bench. AA says you probably need to clearance the hole in the tub and then there’s the console to line up with and I don’t know how much the drive train flexes around so we’ll see…
 
It all new to me. Like I noted, the direct linkage works well on the bench. AA says you probably need to clearance the hole in the tub and then there’s the console to line up with and I don’t know how much the drive train flexes around so we’ll see…

The original shifters for the STaK's for the TJ were made to fit the console but it wasn't a great fit.
I think parts of the issue was how they mounted onto the transfer case.
The AA version looks to be a lot better from what I can see.
 
Had to download these pictures since I'm not at home.
The first shifter was the rods.
The second was the black one.

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You can see neither are as refined as the AA shifter. Which was part of why I wanted cable shifters.
 
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Gearing and axles are certainly on my mind. My current 4.11 gears work very well with the stroker and AX15 on 33s. Even though my super 35-CrMo Dana 30 combo is supposed to be good for 35s (my Dana 30 is only 27 spline), I wonder how the current axles will do with 35s, a 5.0:1 T-case and the extra power of the stroker. Deeper axle gearing will increase the torque seen by the shafts. Lower weight and therefore drivetrain stress is one reason I went with Coyote beadlocks. But, I may just need to get beefier axles.

Short answer: Probably 4.88 ultimately, but for now, I’m holding off on re-gearing.
Gotcha.it sounds like spending some time looking for Dana 44's might be in your future?
 
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Today I got up, had coffee, went for a run and pulled the NP 231. It went well. First I pulled the driver’s seat and console. Lots of wiring there (heated seats, ARB on board air and sound system). I haven’t posted about the sound system yet because I’m still tweaking it. I did find out that some speaker noise which follows engine RPM went away when the Bluetooth amp and powered sub are unscrewed from the tub. So I’ll need to isolate that when it goes back together.
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Then the stock T-case shifter came out and the Savvy cable shifter was disconnected from the tub. I had good access to the 4WD switch plug, T-case breather tube and one of the top trans to T-case bolts so those were taken off. No idea what the red arrow is pointing to? Looks like some sort of magnetic or Hall effect thingy?
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Done inside for now, the Jeep went up in the air. Wheels off, transmission supported with a poke jack, T-case skid off, drive shafts off, and I removed the exhaust from the crossover to the tail pipe so the heat shield could be removed for access to the upper passenger side trans to T-case bolt. The transmission mount and plate came off as well as the plate needs to be modified for this install. I found a bunch of dirt on top of that plate. There was a lot of this under the Jeep when I got it from the PO almost 5 years ago. This may be the last of it. Mud sucks.
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Now, the transmission jack came in and other 5 trans to T-case bolts were removed and the AX15 and NP 231 were separated.
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Thats a stopping point. Time for football. I’m from Detroit and the Lions haven’t made it this far in my lifetime. 14-7 Lions over the Niners as I post this. Good day so far.
 
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Today I got up, had coffee, went for a run and pulled the NP 231. It went well. First I pulled the driver’s seat and console. Lots of wiring there (heated seats, ARB on board air and sound system). I haven’t posted about the sound system yet because I’m still tweaking it. I did find out that some speaker noise which follows engine RPM went away when the Bluetooth amp and powered sub are unscrewed from the tub. So I’ll need to isolate that when it goes back together.
View attachment 495239
Then the stock T-case shifter came out and the Savvy cable shifter was disconnected from the tub. I had good access to the 4WD switch plug, T-case breather tube and one of the top trans to T-case bolts so those were taken off. No idea what the red arrow is pointing to? Looks like some sort of magnetic or Hall effect thingy?
View attachment 495240

View attachment 495241
Done inside for now, the Jeep went up in the air. Wheels off, transmission supported with a poke jack, T-case skid off, drive shafts off, and I removed the exhaust from the crossover to the tail pipe off so the heat shield could be removed for accesss to the upper passenger side trans to T-case bolt. The transmission mount and plate came off as well as the plate needs to be modified for this install. I found a bunch of dirt on top of that plate. There was a lot of this under the Jeep when I got it from the PO almost 5 years ago. This may be the last of it. Mud sucks.
View attachment 495242
Now, the transmission jack came in and other 5 trans to T-case bolts were removed and the AX15 and NP 231 were separated.
View attachment 495243

View attachment 495244
Thats a stopping point. Time for football. I’m from Detroit and the Lions haven’t made it this far in my lifetime. 14-7 Lions over the Niners as I post this. Good day so far.

The boys need to win!
 
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I began work on the Atlas install this evening. This Atlas is much larger than the NP231 top to bottom, especially on the front output (driver) side.
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Despite this, I’m hoping to exploit the new 1.25” body lift to increase the amount of tummy tuck from 2.5” below the frame to roughly 1.5”. The Atlas has multiple options for clocking. The position of the stock 231 is 13 degrees down on the drivers (front output) side so I started with that. The height of the pole jack supporting the AX15 is at the height the trans sits when using the stock trans mount on the UCF ultra high clearance skid.
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This gave plenty of room on top.
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But that Atlas at 13 degrees also hung down too far to use the UCF ultra high clearance skid. That skid is about 1.25-1.5” below frame belly height (outside) but less than 1” on the inside.
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So next I tried 7 degrees.
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I liked this better. It will require some tub clearancing but should also allow the higher T-case skid.
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Either way the transmission mount plate will need modification and I think I’ve decided to make a custom crossmember rather than have the transmission rest on whatever skid I use.
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I‘ve got some work to do…