Woodrow's 97 Green TJ Moderate Build

This week the Atlas and 35s project finally got (mostly) buttoned up. The GenRight crossmember came back from powder coat:
IMG_6350.jpeg

That allowed the new underarmor to go on; UCF DIY 1” drop T-case skid in 3/8” aluminum and UCF 1/4” aluminum engine skid (braces also powder coated).

IMG_6409.jpeg


IMG_6410.jpeg

For once, a straight forward, bolt on upgrade (except I used counter sunk bolts instead of the button heads the engine skid came with which I thought would become unusable the first time they were drug across a rock).

IMG_6408.jpeg

Next, some important but tedious work; pull the springs and cycle the suspension to figure and fix clearance issues with the 35s. I don’t enjoy pulling the springs, especially fronts. I also pulled the rears and cycled but no pics as nothing needed changing.
IMG_6357.jpeg

Since the body lift was the only change, I expected this would go pretty well. My 4+ inch spring lift was well worked out with 33s. Mostly, it did. 2 things though :
1) I figured this was a good time to redo my bumpstops. I’ve been using Daystar poly bumps which extend 3 3/4” from the cups at all corners and that has been pretty perfect for my setup.
IMG_6399.jpeg


IMG_6402.jpeg

But, bowing to peer pressure, I decided to go with hockey pucks and foam bumps. But hockey pucks on the low side don’t meet the cup as well and would contact the spring a lot more ❌
IMG_6376.jpeg

So, since I destroyed the old bumps and buggered up the cups, I bought and replaced new Daystar poly bumps and crown cups. With about 9” of shock travel with that set up, tire clearance is mostly good:

IMG_6403.jpeg

Except problem number 2)
The SwayLoc links were too short. I have BMB elevated sway bar link brackets on the front axle. With those and 33s, the ORO links were about 8” eye-eye. The heim joint ends were already at pretty minimal depth in the ORO center bar.
IMG_6196.jpeg

In the pic above, the 35s contact the SwayLoc hard in the full flex and steering test. Options are adjust the steering stops or lengthen the links. I chose the latter. A local shop cut some 4130 chromoly 0.875” bar 4” longer than the ORO bars (8.5” vs. 4.5”), drilled each end to 1.75” depth and then tapped for 1/2” x 20tpi. The new links were assembled at 11.25” eye-eye.
IMG_6411.jpeg

That gave barely enough tire clearance just below the SwayLoc arm at full flex/steer. Amazing that a tire with only 1” more radius needed over 3” more sway bar link to work.
IMG_6401.jpeg

Also note the super stubby bumper cut. I did that for 2 reasons. First the Swayloc hits it at max up travel and 2nd the driver’s side got smashed into a rock on the Rubicon last fall.
IMG_5226.jpeg

I may fab some beefy end caps at some point, but not today.
With the new links, I could set my steering stops at a more reasonable position, put the springs back in and get the Jeep off the lift and go for a test ride after 2 plus months of on-off work. It also got a bath due to all the dust, pollen and bat sh*t collecting in that time.
IMG_6421.jpeg


IMG_6423.jpeg

I’ve been daily driving it this week. Initial impressions are:
Feels bigger. Looks cooler.
Also slower. Need to regear. 4.11 was fine with 33s and the stroker/AX-15 but not with 35s. I’m thinking 5.13 but could also be 4.88. I may not get to that for a bit.
More vibes with the trans on the GenRight universal crossmember vs the stock style Anchor trans mount. Tolerable, though.
Everything works. e.g. Speedo is correct. 4x4 dash light works. Exhaust sounds good. No new rattles/wobbles/odd sounds. Tires seem well balanced.
T-case shifts OK (different than stock, better when rolling) and 5.0:1 is really low. The need for re-gear is more a street than trail edit: is more apparent in high range e.g. street, sand, snow than low range crawling .
Love that belly clearance. Overall, seems like a success👍
IMG_6419.jpeg
 
Last edited:
This week the Atlas and 35s project finally got (mostly) buttoned up. The GenRight crossmember came back from powder coat:
View attachment 517720
That allowed the new underarmor to go on; UCF DIY 1” drop T-case skid in 3/8” aluminum and UCF 1/4” aluminum engine skid (braces also powder coated).

View attachment 517723

View attachment 517724
For once, a straight forward, bolt on upgrade (except I used counter sunk bolts instead of the button heads the engine skid came with which I thought would become unusable the first time they were drug across a rock).

View attachment 517727
Next, some important but tedious work; pull the springs and cycle the suspension to figure and fix clearance issues with the 35s. I don’t enjoy pulling the springs, especially fronts. I also pulled the rears and cycled but no pics as nothing needed changing.
View attachment 517728
Since the body lift was the only change, I expected this would go pretty well. My 4+ inch spring lift was well worked out with 33s. Mostly, it did. 2 things though :
1) I figured this was a good time to redo my bumpstops. I’ve been using Daystar poly bumps which extend 3 3/4” from the cups at all corners and that has been pretty perfect for my setup.
View attachment 517730

View attachment 517731
But, bowing to peer pressure, I decided to go with hockey pucks and foam bumps. But hockey pucks on the low side don’t meet the cup as well and would contact the spring a lot more ❌
View attachment 517732
So, since I destroyed the old bumps and buggered up the cups, I bought and replaced new Daystar poly bumps and crown cups. With about 9” of shock travel with that set up, tire clearance is mostly good:View attachment 517736
Except problem number 2)
The SwayLoc links were too short. I have BMB elevated sway bar link brackets on the front axle. With those and 33s, the ORO links were about 8” eye-eye. The heim joint ends were already at pretty minimal depth in the ORO center bar.
View attachment 517746
In the pic above, the 35s contact the SwayLoc hard in the full flex and steering test. Options are adjust the steering stops or lengthen the links. I chose the latter. A local shop cut some 4130 chromoly 0.875” bar 4” longer than the ORO bars (8.5” vs. 4.5”), drilled each end to 1.75” and then tapped for 1/2 x20tpi. The new links were assembled at 11.25” eye-eye.
View attachment 517747
That gave barely enough tire clearance just below the SwayLoc arm at full flex/steer. Amazing that a tire with only 1” more radius needed over 3” more sway bar link to work.
View attachment 517748
Also note the super stubby bumper cut. I did that for 2 reasons. First the Swayloc hits it at max up travel and 2nd the driver’s side got smashed into a rock on the Rubicon last fall.
View attachment 517749
I may fab some beefy end caps at some point, but not today.
With the new links, I could set my steering stops at a more reasonable position, put the springs back in and get the Jeep off the lift and go for a test ride after 2 plus months of on-off work. It also got a bath due to all the dust, pollen and bat sh*t collecting in that time.
View attachment 517758

View attachment 517752
I’ve been daily driving it this week. Initial impressions are:
Feels bigger. Looks cooler.
Also slower. Need to regear. 4.11 was fine with 33s and the stroker/AX-15 but not with 35s. I’m thinking 5.13 but could also be 4.88. I may not get to that for a bit.
More vibes with the trans on the GenRight universal crossmember vs the stock style Anchor trans mount. Tolerable, though.
Everything works. e.g. Speedo is correct. 4x4 dash light works. Exhaust sound good. No new rattles/wobbles/odd sounds. Tires seem well balanced.
T-case shifts OK (different than stock, better when rolling) and 5.0:1 is really low. The need for re-gear is more a street than trail thing I think.
Love that belly clearance,too, Overall, seems like a sucess👍
View attachment 517750

Oh, it’s definitely a success…
 
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Remains my favorite Jeep build.

I could drive that all day. The level of detail is amazing.

How do you like the Yokohama’s?

Thx man. I appreciate that. Probably too soon to say about the tires other than that they are round which should be a given but it seems not with many (most?) larger tire sizes. I decided to try them because they are made in Japan and I hoped that might be better quality control than other locations. The road force numbers (which I interpret as a measure of roundness) were better than several other 35” truck tires I’ve had in the last few years. The MT tread is pretty quiet now but I expect the volume to go up as they age. I hope, however, the trail performance, especially aired down, will be worth it over my previous hybrid tires.
 
Last edited:
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I have neglected updating this thread with regard to my sound system for a few months (6 to be precise). I had been living with the PO’s Sony head unit and some mismatched aftermarket speakers since I picked up my TJ 5 years ago. The sound was tinny and mostly useless above parking lot speeds. Obviously, this was not a priority but eventually I thought a better sound system would be nice. I decided to build a “headless” system that runs off my phone by bluetooth (like a big bluetooth speaker for your car). I am not an audiophile but with the help of @skrelnik and Crutchfield, I put together a plan and got some hardware:

Kenwood bluetooth amp (KAC-M5024BT) 50 watts x 4 channels RMS-Crutchfield

BLAM Relax 130mm (5.25”) speakers. Coaxial with 20mm tweeters for the sound bar and component for the dash. 120 watt max, 2 ohm, 91 dB sens. The speakers are the big thing @skrelnik helped me with and they sound great. I’m told its the low impedance (vs the more usual 4 ohm) that gives them such clear powerful output. The speakers are French and were ordered direct and the tweeter pods came from a small German outfit on eBay.

Kicker 10” powered subwoofer (46HS10) 180 watts-Crutchfield
1713155715587.jpeg

So out with the old:
IMG_5494.jpeg

Turns out only two of the speakers were even hooked up. I’m sure that didn’t help.

First I had to decide where to mount the amp and sub. I considered the steering column for the amp and tailgate for the sub but decided under the driver's seat/rear footwell made the most sense because they are close for ease of wiring and this still doesn’t interfere with the cargo (dog) area in my 2 seater. Water intrusion is a potential issue, of course if the Jeep floods.

Here they are bolted to the tub floor via M5 rivnuts. The wiring to power, dash controls and to the speakers all utilizes plugs for ease of removal. This came in quite handy when I had to pull it all out for the recent Atlas project.

IMG_5546.jpeg

Also note, you can’t bolt these things directly to the tub with metal. Doing so sets up a ground loop (or some such) which prevents the sub from putting out much sound and also gives a whine audible only at low speeds that varies with engine RPM. Once I figured that out, I removed the steel screws and used M5x30mm nylon bolts which totally fixed those issues (🙄as I mentioned, I know nothing about stereos).
IMG_6371.jpeg

Here is everything hooked back up and properly isolated and secured in place with the seat frame in.
IMG_6372.jpeg

The adustments for the amp and sub are both accessible with the seat in.
IMG_5689.jpeg


IMG_5690.jpeg

Next the speakers. To make the 5.25” round woofers fit in the 4x6 dash holes, you need to do some cutting of the metal speaker frame and use an adapter panel:

IMG_5496.jpeg


IMG_5500.jpeg

Per others who know about sound stages, the component tweeter pods were located on the top corners of the dash and aimed at the drivers head for best sound quality (especially better than using coaxial speakers with the tweeter aimed at your knee). The component speakers came with a 0 or-3dB RS crossover (whatever that is) to be wired in. Thanks to @skrelnik for helping me make sure I got it wired correctly.
IMG_5499.jpeg


IMG_5503.jpeg


IMG_6449.jpeg

The sound bar 5.25” coaxial speakers just screw right in. They did not come with, nor does BLAM make, speaker grilles in that size, so I need to find some. Note in this location, the tweeter and woofer are right by your head so component speakers aren’t needed.
IMG_6450.jpeg

Edit: I found some decent quality but subtle 5.25” speaker grilles and installed them:
IMG_6462.jpeg

Finally, main power, bluetooth amp controller, extra bass knob, power switch and phone mount/charger:
I used up the last 2 open fuses in my painless wiring auxiliary fuse panel (mounted above the passenger kick panel area) for the phone charger and the two low power leads to the amp and sub which power on their internal relays. The high power lines to each and grounds also come from the battery input studs on this panel. They each have their own inline fuses.
IMG_5542.jpeg

I made a panel from black ABS to hold the amp controller, power switch, bass boost knob, phone charger and mount. It all takes up as much surface area as a head unit but does integrate the phone in a good spot:
IMG_5544.jpeg

The backside:
IMG_5543.jpeg

Installing:
IMG_5545.jpeg

Installed:
IMG_6452.jpeg

It works!
IMG_6373.jpeg

The amp controller has functions mostly like modern car steering wheel controls (volume, play/stop, skip forward or back, and a switch that toggles through several distinct equalizer settings. The green lighted button is system power. The black knob next to it is bass boost. The magnetic phone mount/charger plugs into a regular USB port, but there is also a 65 watt USB-C port and a system voltage meter.
IMG_5692.jpeg

I’m happy with the efficiency of space usage here. Utilizing the footwells for the 10” sub and ARB dual air pump works nicely.

Its so cool to jump in, throw my phone on the mount and fire up a podcast, playlist or radio station internet live stream all while having the other phone functions (maps etc) right there on the dash. And I can clearly hear the sound and feel the base at highway speeds with the doors off and top flipped open. Much better👍
 
Last edited:
I have neglected updating this thread with regard to my sound system for a few months (6 to be precise). I had been living with the PO’s Sony head unit and some mismatched aftermarket speakers since I picked up my TJ 5 years ago. The sound was tinny and mostly useless above parking lot speeds. Obviously, this was not a priority but eventually I thought a better sound system would be nice. I decided to build a “headless” system that runs off my phone by bluetooth (like a big bluetooth speaker for your car). I am not an audiophile but with the help of @skrelnik and Crutchfield, I put together a plan and got some hardware:

Kenwood bluetooth amp (KAC-M5024BT) 50 watts x 4 channels RMS-Crutchfield

BLAM Relax 130mm (5.25”) speakers. Coaxial with 20mm tweeters for the sound bar and component for the dash. 120 watt max, 2 ohm, 91 dB sens. The speakers are the big thing @skrelnik helped me with and they sound great. I’m told its the low impedance (vs the more usual 4 ohm) that gives them such clear powerful output. The speakers are French and were ordered direct and the tweeter pods came from a small German outfit on eBay.

Kicker 10” powered subwoofer (46HS10) 180 watts-Crutchfield
View attachment 518738
So out with the old:
View attachment 518739
Turns out only two of the speakers were even hooked up. I’m sure that didn’t help.

First I had to decide where to mount the amp and sub. I considered the steering column for the amp and tailgate for the sub but decided under the driver's seat/rear footwell made the most sense because they are close for ease of wiring and this still doesn’t interfere with the cargo (dog) area in my 2 seater. Water intrusion is a potential issue, of course if the Jeep floods.

Here they are bolted to the tub floor via M5 rivnuts. The wiring to power, dash controls and to the speakers all utilizes plugs for ease of removal. This came in quite handy when I had to pull it all out for the recent Atlas project.

View attachment 518740
Also note, you can’t bolt these things directly to the tub with metal. Doing so sets up a ground loop (or some such) which prevented the sub from putting out hardly any sound and also gives a whine That varies with engine noise (audible only at low speeds). Once I figured that out, I removed the steel screws and used M5x30mm nylon bolts which totally fixed those issues (🙄as I mentioned, I know nothing about stereos).
View attachment 518742
Here is everything hooked up and properly secured in place with the seat frame in.
View attachment 518741
The adustments for the amp and sub are both accessible with the seat in.
View attachment 518758

View attachment 518757
Next the speakers. To make the 5.25” round woofers fit in the 4x6 dash holes, you need to do some cutting and use an adapter panel:

View attachment 518761

View attachment 518762
Per others who know about sound stages, the component tweeter pods were located on the top corners of the dash and aimed at the drivers head for best sound quality (especially better than using coaxial speakers with the tweeter aimed at your knee). The component speakers came with a 3dB RS crossover (whatever that is) to be wired in. Thanks to @skrelnik for helping me make sure I got it wired correctly.
View attachment 518763

View attachment 518767

View attachment 518769
The sound bar 5.25” coaxial speakers just screw right in. They did not come with, nor does BLAM make, speaker grilles in that size, so I need to find some. Note in this location, the tweeter and woofer are right by your head so component speakers aren’t needed.
View attachment 518770
Finally, main power, bluetooth amp controller, extra bass knob, power switch and phone mount/charger.
I used up the last 2 open fuses in my auxiliary fuse panel for the phone charger and the two low power leads to the amp and sub which power on their internal relays. The high power lines to each and grounds also come from the battery input studs on this panel. They each have their own inline fuses.
View attachment 518771
I fabbed a panel from black ABS to hold the amp controller, power switch, bass boost knob, phone charger and mount. It all takes up as much surface area as a head unit but does integrate the phone in a good spot:
View attachment 518773
The backside:
View attachment 518774
Installing:
View attachment 518772
Installed:
View attachment 518775
It works!
View attachment 518776
The amp controller has functions mostly like modern car steering wheel controls (volume, play/stop, skip forward or back, and a switch that toggles through several distinct equalizer settings. The green lighted button is system power. The black knob next to it is bass boost. The magnetic phone mount/charger plugs into a regular USB port, but there is also a 65 watt USB-C port and a system voltage meter.
View attachment 518777
I’m happy with the efficiency of space usage here. Utilizing the footwells for the 10” sub and ARB dual pump works nicely.

Its so cool to jump in, throw my phone on the mount and fire up a podcast, playlist or internet live stream of a radio station all while having the other phone functions (map etc) right there on the dash. And I can clearly hear the sound and feel the base at highway speeds with the doors off and top flipped open. Much better👍

This is something I need to do. And I really like the phone integration. I have an aftermarket headunit with a removable face, Kicker speakers front and back and that's it. It so rare that I listen to anything in the Jeep, but on those few occasions, it's streamed from my phone via BT. However, I know NOTHING about stereos.. I used to, but the technology has left me in the dust. Plus I have and use a Bestop Concealed Carry security drawer under the drivers seat that I am not willing to do without.

I also worry about theft. I live in a really nice neighborhood. Really hard to find your way in/out and only two roads that will get it done so would-be thiefs targeting cars can get cornered with no escape.. Yet, just last night the Ring community (which I typically find really annoying) alerted of a group of kids hitting open cars and we know a locked Jeep with a soft top is essentially unlocked. I leave nothing in the Jeep worth stealing but that doesn't stop these kids...
 
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This is something I need to do. And I really like the phone integration. I have an aftermarket headunit with a removable face, Kicker speakers front and back and that's it. It so rare that I listen to anything in the Jeep, but on those few occasions, it's streamed from my phone via BT. However, I know NOTHING about stereos.. I used to, but the technology has left me in the dust. Plus I have and use a Bestop Concealed Carry security drawer under the drivers seat that I am not willing to do without.

I also worry about theft. I live in a really nice neighborhood. Really hard to find your way in/out and only two roads that will get it done so would-be thiefs targeting cars can get cornered with no escape.. Yet, just last night the Ring community (which I typically find really annoying) alerted of a group of kids hitting open cars and we know a locked Jeep with a soft top is essentially unlocked. I leave nothing in the Jeep worth stealing but that doesn't stop these kids...

It took some reading, planning and reaching out to forum members like @skrelnik and @JMT who were both very helpful. Taking apart the interior and the wiring is a bit tedious which is maybe why I put it off. My wiring game is much improved these days so that helped. I do recommend the the BLAM 130mm speakers. In your situation, the under column amp mount and a sub in the console are maybe the way to go.
 
It took some reading, planning and reaching out to forum members like @skrelnik and @JMT who were both very helpful. Taking apart the interior and the wiring is a bit tedious which is maybe why I put it off. My wiring game is much improved these days so that helped. I do recommend the the BLAM 130mm speakers. In your situation, the under column amp mount and a sub in the console are maybe the way to go.

I’ll dig around more.

I have GMRS mounted under the steering column. I rarely use the armrest console so could easily give up that to the sub
 
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I have neglected updating this thread with regard to my sound system for a few months (6 to be precise). I had been living with the PO’s Sony head unit and some mismatched aftermarket speakers since I picked up my TJ 5 years ago. The sound was tinny and mostly useless above parking lot speeds. Obviously, this was not a priority but eventually I thought a better sound system would be nice. I decided to build a “headless” system that runs off my phone by bluetooth (like a big bluetooth speaker for your car). I am not an audiophile but with the help of @skrelnik and Crutchfield, I put together a plan and got some hardware:

Kenwood bluetooth amp (KAC-M5024BT) 50 watts x 4 channels RMS-Crutchfield

BLAM Relax 130mm (5.25”) speakers. Coaxial with 20mm tweeters for the sound bar and component for the dash. 120 watt max, 2 ohm, 91 dB sens. The speakers are the big thing @skrelnik helped me with and they sound great. I’m told its the low impedance (vs the more usual 4 ohm) that gives them such clear powerful output. The speakers are French and were ordered direct and the tweeter pods came from a small German outfit on eBay.

Kicker 10” powered subwoofer (46HS10) 180 watts-Crutchfield
View attachment 518738
So out with the old:
View attachment 518739
Turns out only two of the speakers were even hooked up. I’m sure that didn’t help.

First I had to decide where to mount the amp and sub. I considered the steering column for the amp and tailgate for the sub but decided under the driver's seat/rear footwell made the most sense because they are close for ease of wiring and this still doesn’t interfere with the cargo (dog) area in my 2 seater. Water intrusion is a potential issue, of course if the Jeep floods.

Here they are bolted to the tub floor via M5 rivnuts. The wiring to power, dash controls and to the speakers all utilizes plugs for ease of removal. This came in quite handy when I had to pull it all out for the recent Atlas project.

View attachment 518740
Also note, you can’t bolt these things directly to the tub with metal. Doing so sets up a ground loop (or some such) which prevents the sub from putting out much sound and also gives a whine audible only at low speeds that varies with engine RPM. Once I figured that out, I removed the steel screws and used M5x30mm nylon bolts which totally fixed those issues (🙄as I mentioned, I know nothing about stereos).
View attachment 518742
Here is everything hooked back up and properly isolated and secured in place with the seat frame in.
View attachment 518741
The adustments for the amp and sub are both accessible with the seat in.
View attachment 518758

View attachment 518757
Next the speakers. To make the 5.25” round woofers fit in the 4x6 dash holes, you need to do some cutting of the metal speaker frame and use an adapter panel:

View attachment 518761

View attachment 518762
Per others who know about sound stages, the component tweeter pods were located on the top corners of the dash and aimed at the drivers head for best sound quality (especially better than using coaxial speakers with the tweeter aimed at your knee). The component speakers came with a 0 or-3dB RS crossover (whatever that is) to be wired in. Thanks to @skrelnik for helping me make sure I got it wired correctly.
View attachment 518763

View attachment 518767

View attachment 518769
The sound bar 5.25” coaxial speakers just screw right in. They did not come with, nor does BLAM make, speaker grilles in that size, so I need to find some. Note in this location, the tweeter and woofer are right by your head so component speakers aren’t needed.
View attachment 518770
Finally, main power, bluetooth amp controller, extra bass knob, power switch and phone mount/charger:
I used up the last 2 open fuses in my painless wiring auxiliary fuse panel (mounted above the passenger kick panel area) for the phone charger and the two low power leads to the amp and sub which power on their internal relays. The high power lines to each and grounds also come from the battery input studs on this panel. They each have their own inline fuses.
View attachment 518771
I made a panel from black ABS to hold the amp controller, power switch, bass boost knob, phone charger and mount. It all takes up as much surface area as a head unit but does integrate the phone in a good spot:
View attachment 518773
The backside:
View attachment 518774
Installing:
View attachment 518772
Installed:
View attachment 518775
It works!
View attachment 518776
The amp controller has functions mostly like modern car steering wheel controls (volume, play/stop, skip forward or back, and a switch that toggles through several distinct equalizer settings. The green lighted button is system power. The black knob next to it is bass boost. The magnetic phone mount/charger plugs into a regular USB port, but there is also a 65 watt USB-C port and a system voltage meter.
View attachment 518777
I’m happy with the efficiency of space usage here. Utilizing the footwells for the 10” sub and ARB dual air pump works nicely.

Its so cool to jump in, throw my phone on the mount and fire up a podcast, playlist or radio station internet live stream all while having the other phone functions (maps etc) right there on the dash. And I can clearly hear the sound and feel the base at highway speeds with the doors off and top flipped open. Much better👍

Amazing Job and write-up! Great job with this build, looks awesome.

Is that an Australian Shepherd you have? I have one and they are great dogs.
 
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Amazing Job and write-up! Great job with this build, looks awesome.

Is that an Australian Shepherd you have? I have one and they are great dogs.

Thank you and many thanks again for the advice on the sound system set up. The speakers are amazing.

Yes, he is an Aussie. We have 2, him and his half brother. You are right, they are really great dogs. Here’s a pic of both in Moab last year:
1713500589559.jpeg

As I’m sure you know, their energy is infectious. Fortunately, we have space for ours to run everyday.
 
Thank you and many thanks again for the advice on the sound system set up. The speakers are amazing.

Yes, he is an Aussie. We have 2, him and his half brother. You are right, they are really great dogs. Here’s a pic of both in Moab last year:
View attachment 519948
As I’m sure you know, their energy is infectious. Fortunately, we have space for ours to run everyday.

At first I saw the jeep and thought top of the world but I don't remember you bringing the dogs.
 
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Thank you and many thanks again for the advice on the sound system set up. The speakers are amazing.

Yes, he is an Aussie. We have 2, him and his half brother. You are right, they are really great dogs. Here’s a pic of both in Moab last year:
View attachment 519948
As I’m sure you know, their energy is infectious. Fortunately, we have space for ours to run everyday.

Wood - Why are you the only one in the picture without his tongue hanging out?

🙂