Woolwax and tire rotation

TLT1964

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Jul 15, 2021
Messages
241
Location
Ohio
Finally got around to cleaning out my frame and sprayed the inside with woolwax. Worked great! Also rotated the tires for winter. Used the 24" wand to get into the frame.
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Woolwax is much better than fluid film. I've done both my Tundra and my jeep with it. I buy the gallon jug and have their sprayer. I usually have to heat it up in boiling water to get it to spray evenly because it's so thick, the spray cans are thinned out a little more. It has lasted 2 years on my frames so far.
 
Woolwax is much better than fluid film. I've done both my Tundra and my jeep with it. I buy the gallon jug and have their sprayer. I usually have to heat it up in boiling water to get it to spray evenly because it's so thick, the spray cans are thinned out a little more. It has lasted 2 years on my frames so far.

I was very pleased at how easy it was to spray, and with 3 cans I did the whole main frame and the under cab body panels and some surface rust in other places.
 
How much coverage do you believe you have inside the frame? I know the CJ guys will tape off all the holes and literally stand the frame on it's end and pour it in. But the amount of rust on those things means they do a lot more frame-offs than we do. Although even if you don't have 200% coverage, any thing is better than nothing as our rigs age.
 
How much coverage do you believe you have inside the frame? I know the CJ guys will tape off all the holes and literally stand the frame on it's end and pour it in. But the amount of rust on those things means they do a lot more frame-offs than we do. Although even if you don't have 200% coverage, any thing is better than nothing as our rigs age.

The coverage looks good, I taped the holes off also, pulling back the tape as I poked the wand in to spray. I also did the problem areas where the rust seems to attack more than once. As I pulled off the tape covering the holes in the bottom of the frame, the excess poured out, so I'm confident in coverage. This stuff clings to the metal well and slowly soaks in.
 
The only two products I ever saw that actually prevented rust in MI were cosmoline and nuxudol.

They both come in a thinner version for cavity coverage and a thicker version for the outsides. Since cosmoline was invented about the time the bow and arrow came off the top secret list, I believe nuxudol is a straight up copy of it. It comes in clean and black...just like cosmoline.

Both of these are long term products. By long term I mean the army sells surplus guns through a special program and these have sat in storage for decades and they have zero rust. But on a car every 5 years would still be overkill.

Use the thinner stuff for inside the frame and inside the doors. The thicker stuff on the outside of the frame, axles, and all other metal parts. I like the clear, that way I can see if a problem is starting. The black looks great but you could get rust behind it and not see it until it starts to the bubble stage.
 
I prefer using a more permanent Eastwood internal frame coating before spraying any greasy stuff inside the frame.
p.s. Your control arm bushings have seen better days.
 
I prefer using a more permanent Eastwood internal frame coating before spraying any greasy stuff inside the frame.
p.s. Your control arm bushings have seen better days.

Thanks, I have used both before, Eastwood's coating is great also. I appreciate you pointing out the bushings, I still have a list, including rear sway bar links also. Might be 2025 before I get to them. 😁
 
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