Worn Out Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints

PStov98TJ

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Messages
554
Location
Mississippi
So I've been having a slight shimmy and recently a clunk, when I hit bumps on the road, independent of speed. I don't think this is a tire balance issue, although I plan to have that checked out as well. I know it isn't a trackbar issue because I confirmed the torque on both bolts today.

Both TRE's that attach to the knuckles have been blown out. I've been planning to do the ZJ V8 tie rod upgrade for a while now, and figured this might be a good opportunity to do it. I'm also gonna do the "see if I can shake the tire test" to check the ball joints at some point this weekend. Just looking for some confirmation on whether or not the tie rod ends need to be replaced before I spend the money.


Drivers Side TRE
FD001D3C-FAA6-4834-98FB-6C888119095F_zpsfe32hzsj.jpg


Passenger Side TRE
ACE8EA8D-13F9-474E-BE28-4A5FC6C9C396_zpsl5i5ur9n.jpg


Driver's Upper Ball Joint
3BA87B49-E309-4E27-98A0-8F1461014C68_zps7rosnfxf.jpg


Driver's Lower Ball Joint
9E02DD3B-4F8A-4D18-82A5-2F4E318EC4BD_zps2wjplqty.jpg


Pass. Upper Ball Joint
E8C922F7-4D47-4D9E-8F0D-E7441A595EEE_zpsjpccecnk.jpg


Pass. Lower Ball Joint
CD87FB1F-6666-4E82-8C55-73AB4512733A_zpsufqytrho.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: JP13
Nice pics, but really can't tell anything unless you physically do a dry steer test. Any up/down or side to side movement in the tie rods indicates they may need replaced.
 
Blown out zerk fitting boots are no indicating the ball joint underneath is toast, it's common for them to be split open from being over-greased. Keep in mind that the tie rod and drag link are connected by those ball joints so the tie rod and drag link is supposed to have rotational play in it. There should just be no side-to-side play when the steering wheel is turned side-to-side with the tires firmly planted on the ground.

Ball joints are best tested with a big crowbar to see if you can wiggle the ball joint via the wheel to see if it has any play in it. If you need ball joints, avoid Synergy's short-lived overpriced junk and go right with Spicer like at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UTD76GY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Nice pics, but really can't tell anything unless you physically do a dry steer test. Any up/down or side to side movement in the tie rods indicates they may need replaced.
I know I need to do the dry steer test. Just gotta find the time and a friend who will turn the steering wheel for me. Probably will do that tomorrow.


Blown out zerk fitting boots are no indicating the ball joint underneath is toast, it's common for them to be split open from being over-greased. Keep in mind that the tie rod and drag link are connected by those ball joints so the tie rod and drag link is supposed to have rotational play in it. There should just be no side-to-side play when the steering wheel is turned side-to-side with the tires firmly planted on the ground.

Ball joints are best tested with a big crowbar to see if you can wiggle the ball joint via the wheel to see if it has any play in it. If you need ball joints, avoid Synergy's short-lived overpriced junk and go right with Spicer like at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UTD76GY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I will definitely go with spicer if I need new ball joints, and Moog for the new tie rod if they end up being shot. I've had to dry test the steering before so I know exactly what you mean by rotational play being normal. I'll try to test all of it out tomorrow and report back.

But if it turns out not to be TRE's or ball joints, I guess control arms and tire balance would be the next thing to check.
 
Could also be the steering box. Is there much slop between when you move the steering wheel and when the Pitman arm responds?

And a speed-sensitive shimmy is nearly always (!) nothing more than a bad or imperfectly balanced tire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PStov98TJ
Could also be the steering box. Is there much slop between when you move the steering wheel and when the Pitman arm responds?

There is definitely a fairly large dead spot in the middle of the steering.

And a speed-sensitive shimmy is nearly always (!) nothing more than a bad or imperfectly balanced tire.
Yep. It's independent of speed. Hit a bump just right at 25 or 30 gives the same shimmy/wobble as if I hit it at 45 or 50. Which is why I hesitated on paying for a balance check today.
 
Our TJ's get cranky if the tires aren't balanced just so, especially if they are bigger than stock.
I'm well aware. Brought my tires back after having them originally installed and made the shop get them perfect. That was about 3 years ago. But I guess if they haven't worn perfectly, might be time for a new balance.

So should I suck it up and pay for a road force balance in the near future?
 
I'm well aware. Brought my tires back after having them originally installed and made the shop get them perfect. That was about 3 years ago. But I guess if they haven't worn perfectly, might be time for a new balance.

So should I suck it up and pay for a road force balance in the near future?

I have mixed feelings about road force balancing. I think it all depends on the shop and how accurate they are. I thing any shop that will take the time to balance as close to zero as possible is good enough, IMO. How are your tires wearing? Are they cupping at all?
 
  • Like
Reactions: PStov98TJ
Like Jerry said, I've tried RFB a couple times and had no better results than normal balancing.
 
I'll see if the local goodyear in town can fit me for a balancing in tomorrow. If not, I'll have to get to it next week. Anything special about the MTR's that I should know? All of my research before I got them said they were an excellent tire and could definitely be balanced enough to avoid things like this, and they've lived up to that so far.

I have mixed feelings about road force balancing. I think it all depends on the shop and how accurate they are. I thing any shop that will take the time to balance as close to zero as possible is good enough, IMO. How are your tires wearing? Are they cupping at all?
They seem to be wearing evenly. Definitely no obvious signs of poor wear. And they ride fine...except for new shimmy obviously.
 
Last edited:
I can't comment on the MTR's other than what I've read, and they can be tough to keep balanced, but take that with a grain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PStov98TJ
My MT/Rs (third set in 14 years) hold their balance ok and they're in rough well-worn shape. Lots of rock crawling on the sidewalls.
That's good to hear and confirms what I had read about them. I've absolutely loved them in the time I've had them in pretty much any terrain both on and off road.

Just for future reference, is it normal to have to have true off road tires like the MTR rebalanced throughout their life?

And I'll be the first to tell you that I've been wrong before. I really think mine are more than likely still balanced because like I said before, the wobble is not speed sensitive in that it will occur at almost any speed. It does however get worse the faster I am going.
 
Good to know. They've got about 25k on them probably so I guess it's time for another balance.

I'm definitely still learning about upkeep of a modified TJ. While I've had mine for almost 10 years, the last 5.5 of that it sat at my parents house while I was away at school (still in school, I just got tired of not getting to drive it). My dad would drive it every once in a while, but never enough to really catch all these little gremlins I've been dealing with lately now that it's back to being my DD. Transmission fluid change is next on the list as well since it just rolled 100 grand on the odometer a couple weeks ago.
 
That's good to hear and confirms what I had read about them. I've absolutely loved them in the time I've had them in pretty much any terrain both on and off road.

Just for future reference, is it normal to have to have true off road tires like the MTR rebalanced throughout their life?

And I'll be the first to tell you that I've been wrong before. I really think mine are more than likely still balanced because like I said before, the wobble is not speed sensitive in that it will occur at almost any speed. It does however get worse the faster I am going.
I tear mine up pretty good on the trail and probably need to rebalance them once a year or so. That might also be from a balance weight falling off from the inside where I have them stuck on so they're in more protected location.
 
Well looks like a rebalance is in my future! I'll try to get that done tomorrow (might have to be the guy studying while I wait...I've got 4 tests Monday morning). Once that's done and I get a chance to take it out for a couple spins around town, I'll do the dry steering test and report back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Be sure to rotate those tires on occasion. I like to rotate every 5K miles, or every oil change.