Wrangler TJ Fluid Capacities & Fluid Recommendations

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NV3550 5 speed manual
2.1 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL...

Sorry if I am being dumb, but I am struggling to understand what seems to be conflicting info, as the first post on page 2 then says...

For the NV3550 you can use 2.1 quarts of Mopar fluid (part #04874464AA) or Synchromax (meets Mopar MS-9224 specs)

The only other two products I found (other than the above two I linked to) that met MS-9224 are Pennzoil and Quaker State Synchromesh.

Stick with one of those. You may be able to find it at the auto part store, but whatever it is, it needs to meet Mopar MS-9224 specs.

I then see this...
I see a lot of people recommending Red line MTL in manual transmissions. Just an FYI, The last time i put that in my 03 wrangler sport 4.0, it would not go into gear easily. It took an excessive amount of force to shift it. I think it was a little too slick for the synchros to function properly. Went to the dealership and got the Mopar NV3550 specific lubricant, and it fixed the problem immediately.

But according to a local UK supplier Red Line MTL is "...Popular for... & Jeep NV1500, NV3500 , NV3550 and NV5600 truck transmissions

Popular replacement for and improvement over GM Synchromesh® (#12345349), Auto-Trak II® (#12378508) and Chrysler spec MS-9224..."

Put simply, is Red Line MTL a good option for a NV3550?
 
But according to a local UK supplier Red Line MTL is "...Popular for... & Jeep NV1500, NV3500 , NV3550 and NV5600 truck transmissions

Popular replacement for and improvement over GM Synchromesh® (#12345349), Auto-Trak II® (#12378508) and Chrysler spec MS-9224..."

Put simply, is Red Line MTL a good option for a NV3550?

I bought my 2004 TJ at 109K miles and I believe (but can't really know for sure) that I changed the fluid for the first time. In my case, the MTL didn't feel drastically different but shifting became slightly smoother once warmed up. It's still notchy and especially difficult to shift into first gear when cold and it still screams like a bitch.

In that it did slightly improve the smoothness of shifting once warmed up, I'd say that it's a good option for the NV3550 but I think anything that meets the spec is likely fine.
 
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Here's a list of the different fluid capacities for various Wrangler TJ models.

Axles
Dana 30 - 1.25 quarts 75W-140
Dana 35 - 1.75 quarts 75W-140 *
Dana 44 - 2 quarts 75W-140 *
Rubicon Dana 44 (FRONT) - 1.375 quarts 75W-140 synthetic
Rubicon Dana 44 (REAR) - 2 quarts 75W-140 synthetic **

* 4 oz of friction modifier is required with Trac-Lok limited slip differential.
** Friction modifier is NOT required with Tru-Lok locker/limited slip differential (factory Rubicon locker).

Should this be updated to say use conventional and do NOT use synthetic in the axles?

There are a lot of posts saying don't use synthetic like the following. But new TJR owner I came here first and was almost directed to the wrong product.

I have been a strong proponent of conventional gear lubes for years, after reading of tests that finally proved our gears run cooler when lubed with conventional gear lubes. In fact many well-known axle builders like Currie require their axles run only on conventional gear lubes to keep their warranties in effect. Gear manufacturers like Revolution Gear specify ONLY conventional gear lubes in their instructions.

But because I drive a Rubicon I let myself get talked into using a synthetic gear lube during the break-in of new gears last year. My new gears started a horrendous whine 900-1000 miles later, on the way back from Death Valley. Revolution Gear sent me a set of replacement gears under warranty and I took my Jeep to well-know expert/guru of regearing. As soon as he pulled my gears out he became very agitated and exclaimed they had been overheated and accused me of having used a synthetic gear lube. He was right, I had... against my better judgement. He made it very clear that he has seen too many issues with overheating in axles filled with synthetic gear lubes and made sure he made his point to me to only use a conventional in the future. When I said I had been told Rubicon axles supposedly had a different lube flow design that required a synthetic, he laughed and said that was a bunch of "bullshit".

Not to mention that the gentleman who fixed my gear problem (Martin of Mobile Gears) is probably the most respected R&P gear guy in SoCal, even Revolution Gear was happy when I told them who would be installing my new R&P gears. Martin set up the new gears, refilled the axle with a conventional 85W-140 and life has been good ever since.

The first time I was told about the conventional vs. synthetic gear lube thing, it was during a face-to-face conversation with John Currie maybe 15 years ago. He told me how they were starting to get an unusually high number of new R&P installation failures... gears THEY had installed and knew they had been correctly installed.

Currie then figured out the failures were only with axles the customers had filled with synthetic gear lubes which at the time made no sense. From the damage to the gears, they knew it was heat related... as was with my failed gears. They used an IR temperature gauge to measure the diff housings and observed that the housings filled with synthetics were cooler than those filled with conventional gear lubes. So they figured it can't be from the synthetic gear lube. Months later with more failures and repairs being taken care of under warranty (it's getting expensive for them) they still felt they had a heat problem. So they built a test jig so they could measure the heat of the gears directly. What they found was, when measured directly at the gears, the gears running in the synthetic gear lubes were running significantly hotter than those lubricated with conventional gear lubes. That shocked them since the common knowledge back then was gears lubricated with synthetics run cooler. The research finally figured out that the synthetic gear lube is not as good at extracting the heat out of the gears as a conventional gear lube is. The diff covers were not getting as hot when a synthetic was used because the synthetic wasn't carrying the heat out of the gears and to the diff housing and covers so it could radiate out.

Once Currie and other high-end axle builders figured that out, and they were all shocked at what they had learned about the use of synthetic gear lubes, they immediately changed their instructions to say to use only conventional gear lubes. After that their warranty repairs dropped back down to where they were before their customers started using synthetic gear lubes.

I know some people and shops claim synthetic is ok but when I read Revolution Gear's instructions, Currie's axle instructions, and hear a gear expert yell at me after he sees the condition of my newly installed gears last year, all agreeing to run a conventional gear lube in my axles, I'm back with my strictly conventional gear lube mindset. I don't care if it's a Rubicon axle or a non-Rubicon axle. :)
 
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Should this be updated to say use conventional and do NOT use synthetic in the axles?

There are a lot of posts saying don't use synthetic like the following. But new TJR owner I came here first and was almost directed to the wrong product.
A synthetic gear lube can be used with the factory gears or after aftermarket gears have been completely broken in. But we should add a note recommending a conventional gear lube at least during new gear break in.
 
A synthetic gear lube can be used with the factory gears or after aftermarket gears have been completely broken in. But we should add a note recommending a conventional gear lube at least during new gear break in.

How about a note that you don't need to pay 250% for synthetic even with factory gears? I'm changing the oil in my 2006 TJR, 100K miles, with original gears but using conventional.

I run the cheapest conventional 85W-140 GL-5 I can find. Guy that did my gears said the brand doesn't matter and the cheap stuff works just as well.
 
Here's a list of the different fluid capacities for various Wrangler TJ models.

Engine
2.5L 4 cyl - 4 quarts
2.4L 4 cyl - 5 quarts
4.0L 6 cyl - 6 quarts


Transmission
30RH 3 speed auto
ATF+4 is replacement). See post #2 below for fluid amount. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

32RH 3 speed auto
Approximately 4 quarts ATF+4 is replacement) when drained via dropping the pan / Approximately 8 quarts dry fill. See post #2 below for FSM procedure. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

42RLE 4 speed auto
Approximately 4 quarts ATF+4 when drained via dropping the pan / Approximately 8.8 quarts dry fill. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

AX-5 5 speed manual
3.3 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals). I highly recommend Redline MT-90.

AX-15 5 speed manual
3.32 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals). I highly recommend Redline MT-90.

NV3550 5 speed manual
2.1 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL.

NV1500 5 speed manual
2.4 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL.

NSG370 6 speed manual
1.58 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL.


Transfer Case
231
1.1 quarts ATF+3 or ATF+4

241
2.1 quarts ATF+4

NOTE: The 231 and 241 transfer cases are fine with any type of good quality ATF. Mercon, Dexron, ATF+4, etc. are all fine. Only the automatic transmission is fussy about the type of ATF it gets.


Axles
Dana 30 - 1.25 quarts 75W-140
Dana 35 - 1.75 quarts 75W-140 *
Dana 44 - 2 quarts 75W-140 *
Rubicon Dana 44 (FRONT) - 1.375 quarts 75W-140 synthetic
Rubicon Dana 44 (REAR) - 2 quarts 75W-140 synthetic **

* 4 oz of friction modifier is required with Trac-Lok limited slip differential.
** Friction modifier is NOT required with Tru-Lok locker/limited slip differential (factory Rubicon locker).



Cooling System
The Jeep Wrangler TJ came with a HOAT coolant from the factory. I always recommend running OE Mopar coolant or Zerex G-05, which are both HOAT coolants.

2.5L - 9 quarts
2.4L - 10.1 quarts
4.0L - 10.5 quarts

Great info, thank you Chris.
 
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Great info here. in the manual for the front it has SAE 80W-90 and the 75-140 for the rear. just changed the fluids yesterday and did the 80W-90 as listed in the manual. See any issue?

IMG_0973.jpeg
 
Here's a list of the different fluid capacities for various Wrangler TJ models.

Engine
2.5L 4 cyl - 4 quarts
2.4L 4 cyl - 5 quarts
4.0L 6 cyl - 6 quarts


Transmission
30RH 3 speed auto
ATF+4 is replacement). See post #2 below for fluid amount. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

32RH 3 speed auto
Approximately 4 quarts ATF+4 is replacement) when drained via dropping the pan / Approximately 8 quarts dry fill. See post #2 below for FSM procedure. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

42RLE 4 speed auto
Approximately 4 quarts ATF+4 when drained via dropping the pan / Approximately 8.8 quarts dry fill. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

AX-5 5 speed manual
3.3 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals). I highly recommend Redline MT-90.

AX-15 5 speed manual
3.32 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals). I highly recommend Redline MT-90.

NV3550 5 speed manual
2.1 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL.

NV1500 5 speed manual
2.4 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL.

NSG370 6 speed manual
1.58 quarts. I highly recommend Redline MTL.


Transfer Case
231
1.1 quarts ATF+3 or ATF+4

241
2.1 quarts ATF+4

NOTE: The 231 and 241 transfer cases are fine with any type of good quality ATF. Mercon, Dexron, ATF+4, etc. are all fine. Only the automatic transmission is fussy about the type of ATF it gets.


Axles
Dana 30 - 1.25 quarts 75W-140
Dana 35 - 1.75 quarts 75W-140 *
Dana 44 - 2 quarts 75W-140 *
Rubicon Dana 44 (FRONT) - 1.375 quarts 75W-140 synthetic
Rubicon Dana 44 (REAR) - 2 quarts 75W-140 synthetic **

* 4 oz of friction modifier is required with Trac-Lok limited slip differential.
** Friction modifier is NOT required with Tru-Lok locker/limited slip differential (factory Rubicon locker).



Cooling System
The Jeep Wrangler TJ came with a HOAT coolant from the factory. I always recommend running OE Mopar coolant or Zerex G-05, which are both HOAT coolants.

2.5L - 9 quarts
2.4L - 10.1 quarts
4.0L - 10.5 quarts

Are there major differences between different friction modifiers? I have some Motorcraft left over from my truck, can I safely use it on the TJ?

Thank you!
 
Are there major differences between different friction modifiers? I have some Motorcraft left over from my truck, can I safely use it on the TJ?

Thank you!
It's unlikely you need more. Nearly all GL5 gear lubes used in our axles already contain enough friction modifier. If it's there the gear lube's rear label will say something like 'Compatible with limited slip differentials.' Adding more would not be beneficial.
 
FYI in case anyone is looking... Although the VALVOLINE HIGH PERFORMANCE GEAR OIL SAE 80W-90 is GL-5 compliant, Valvoline states it does not have friction modifiers in it.