Wrangler TJ Fluid Capacities & Fluid Recommendations

Shawn Donahue said:
So if I do not do a lot of off-roading or Towing I can go with the 80w 90 that is GL-5 rated. But 75w 140 with the 4 oz of friction modifier is the best choice to cover all bases?
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75w140 should also be GL-5 rated, so it too will already have the friction modifier. Just check the label. It should note that it is GL-5 rated. If it says it can be used in limited slip differentials, then it's got the modifier in it.
 
Chris said:
Here's a list of the different fluid capacities for various Wrangler TJ models.

Engine
2.5L 4 cyl - 4 quarts
2.4L 4 cyl - 5 quarts
4.0L 6 cyl - 6 quarts


Transmission
30RH 3 speed auto
ATF+4 is replacement). See post #2 below for fluid amount. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

32RH 3 speed auto
Approximately 4 quarts ATF+4 is replacement) when drained via dropping the pan / Approximately 8 quarts dry fill. See post #2 below for FSM procedure. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

42RLE 4 speed auto
Approximately 4 quarts ATF+4 when drained via dropping the pan / Approximately 8.8 quarts dry fill. Make sure to use ATF+4, not just ATF!

AX-5 5 speed manual
3.3 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals)

AX-15 5 speed manual
3.32 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals)

NV3550 5 speed manual
2.1 quarts Mopar fluid part #Synchromax (meets Mopar MS-9224 specs)

NV1500 5 speed manual
2.4 quarts Mopar part #Synchromax (meets Mopar MS-9224 specs)

NSG370 6 speed manual
1.58 quarts Mopar part #Synchromax (meets Mopar MS-9224 specs)


Transfer Case
231 - 1.1 quarts ATF+3 or ATF+4
241 - 2.1 quarts ATF+4

NOTE: The 231 and 241 transfer cases are fine with any type of good quality ATF. Mercon, Dexron, ATF+4, etc. are all fine. Only the automatic transmission is fussy about the type of ATF it gets.


Axles
Dana 30 - 1.25 quarts 75W-140
Dana 35 - 1.75 quarts 75W-140 *
Dana 44 - 2 quarts 75W-140 *
Rubicon Dana 44 (FRONT) - 1.375 quarts 75W-140 synthetic
Rubicon Dana 44 (REAR) - 2 quarts 75W-140 synthetic **

*4 oz of friction modifier is required with Trac-Lok limited slip differential.
**Friction modifier is NOT required with Tru-Lok locker/limited slip differential (factory Rubicon locker).


Cooling System
2.5L - 9 quarts
2.4L - 10.1 quarts
4.0L - 10.5 quarts

I always recommend running OE Mopar coolant.
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Thanks for this list going through all of the fluids today.
 
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Chris said:
You can run 5W-30 or 10W-30, any brand of oil.

Synthetic isn’t necessary at all unless you live in a really cold climate region.
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I have 2002 tj too, I have used 10 w 40 synthetic liquimoly for twice time... For the future can I use a 5 w 30 oil...?

IMG_20180326_100858.jpg
 
Question what about the Royal Purple synthetic for the AX15 it says gl 4 and 5.


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I see a lot of people recommending Red line MTL in manual transmissions. Just an FYI, The last time i put that in my 03 wrangler sport 4.0, it would not go into gear easily. It took an excessive amount of force to shift it. I think it was a little too slick for the synchros to function properly. Went to the dealership and got the Mopar NV3550 specific lubricant, and it fixed the problem immediately.
 
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Chris said:
Here's a list of the different fluid capacities for various Wrangler TJ models.

Axles
Dana 30 - 1.25 quarts 75W-140
Dana 35 - 1.75 quarts 75W-140 *
Dana 44 - 2 quarts 75W-140 *
Rubicon Dana 44 (FRONT) - 1.375 quarts 75W-140 synthetic
Rubicon Dana 44 (REAR) - 2 quarts 75W-140 synthetic **

*4 oz of friction modifier is required with Trac-Lok limited slip differential.
**Friction modifier is NOT required with Tru-Lok locker/limited slip differential (factory Rubicon locker)
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I am in the process of doing Oil, Transmission, Transfer case, Axles, and coolant on an 06 Rubicon and 06 LJ. Both are basically stock and are driven on pavement more than dirt.

Since this is adding up quickly, Is there a major difference in using Mobil 1 75W-140 vs Lucas Oil 75W-140 ? The main reason is price. I am not trying to Cheap out, but I can get a Gallon of Lucas for $40 vs 2 quarts of Mobil 1 for $40.
Is Mobil 1 worth that much more for the driving I do ?

According to Chris's writeup, I will need about 7 quarts ( 8 to be safe ) for both Jeeps.

I have used this forum for my questions and you all have not let me down. I trust the views here.
So, set me straight. Will I be Ok with Lucas, or will I be eating Top Ramon for 2 weeks ?
 
So I have a friend with a 99 tj Sahara. Has the 32rh automatic trans. He hadn't had a week took it out riding, hit a mud hole and jeep was like it was in neutral after that. Went to drop the pan and look and all the bolts were only finger tight, the trans filter was completely caked in mud. Flushed out the system twice and cleared all the watery fluid out and had the fluid looking good. Jeep ran again, he did it one more time and added Lucas trans slip fix to it and it ran for a few mins then back to acting like it's in neutral. Told him to drain it again and leave the Lucas out of it. Any other ideas you guys might have?
 
When you bring this radiator fluid up it says in questions and answers that it's for 2014 and above. Does that matter? Also I had an order cancelled on ebay. They said they couldn't ship this to CA. Is this going to be a problem for me? And what is the alternative?

"Cooling System
2.5L - 9 quarts
2.4L - 10.1 quarts
4.0L - 10.5 quarts

I always recommend running OE Mopar coolant. "
 
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moab said:
When you bring this radiator fluid up it says in questions and answers that it's for 2014 and above. Does that matter? Also I had an order cancelled on ebay. They said they couldn't ship this to CA. Is this going to be a problem for me? And what is the alternative?

"Cooling System
2.5L - 9 quarts
2.4L - 10.1 quarts
4.0L - 10.5 quarts

I always recommend running OE Mopar coolant. "
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Just out of curiosity, what is the reason for using "OE Mopar coolant" and not just a good quality alternative that is more readily available? I'm going to swap mine out soon, and was wondering this. Thanks!
 
Pre purchase mechanic stated engine oil level is "overfilled". Any recs to why the selling dealership would overfill other than just putting too much in? Easy to let fluid out?
 
tennant said:
Pre purchase mechanic stated engine oil level is "overfilled". Any recs to why the selling dealership would overfill other than just putting too much in? Easy to let fluid out?
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Let it out the drain plug. Incompetent service worker would be my guess.
 
tennant said:
Pre purchase mechanic stated engine oil level is "overfilled". Any recs to why the selling dealership would overfill other than just putting too much in? Easy to let fluid out?
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As long as it isn't grossly overfilled, I wouldn't worry about it. To be honest, I like to overfill my cars a tiny bit, just to help to avoid starvation during cornering (not that a Wrangler is going to pull enough G's in a corner to warrant this). But a little extra won't hurt. If its like 2+ quarts high, then yes I'd release some by siphoning it out or just draining it and changing the oil & filter.
 
Chris said:
Automatic Transmission Fill Procedure per the FSM

32RH and 30RH (97-02 3 spd auto)
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
  1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.
  2. Add following initial quantity of Mozart ATF Plus 3 to transmission:
    1. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 3 pints (1-1/2 quarts) of ATF+4to transmission.
    2. If transmission was completely overhauled, torque converter was replaced or drained, and cooler was flushed, add 12 pints (6 quarts) of ATF+4to transmission.
  3. Apply parking brakes.
  4. Start and run engine at normal curb idle speed.
  5. Apply service brakes, shift transmission through all gear ranges then back to NEUTRAL, set parking brake, and leave engine running at curb idle speed.
  6. Remove funnel, insert dipstick and check fluid level. If level is low, add fluid to bring level to MIN mark on dipstick. Check to see if the oil level is equal on both sides of the dipstick. If one side is noticeably higher than the other, the dipstick has picked up some oil from the dipstick tube. Allow the oil to drain down the dipstick tube and re-check.
  7. Drive vehicle until transmission fluid is at normal operating temperature.
  8. With the engine running at curb idle speed, the gear selector in NEUTRAL, and the parking brake applied, check the transmission fluid level. CAUTION: Do not overfill transmission, fluid foaming snd shifting problems can result.
  9. Add fluid to bring level up to MAX arrow mark. When fluid level is correct, shut engine off, release park brake, remove funnel, and install dipstick in fill tube.
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What about torque converter... After removing all the transmission, do we need to add oil to the torque converter before re-installing transmission?

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