Wrangler TJ Gas Overflow Fix

Added the GM hose this afternoon and then went and filled it up with gas... no more overflow issues. Awesome

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Thanks Chris and everyone else for all the information
 
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mrblaine said:
That's retarded.
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Let me paraphrase; the GM hose is not really a fix, it is a band aid to hide the real problem. That problem is the swelling of the cage and/or roll over plunger, most likely due to alcohol in the gas we use. There is a true fix, if you are interested. Just know that the reason there is fuel splashing back at you is due to the plunger sticking down. So with it sticking down, gas will pour out in the case of a roll over; not good. The other issue is extremely slow fill ups. That is the opposite; plunger stuck in the upward position. The hose will not cure that issue.
 
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Rob5589 said:
Let me paraphrase; the GM hose is not really a fix, it is a band aid to hide the real problem. That problem is the swelling of the cage and/or roll over plunger, most likely due to alcohol in the gas we use. There is a true fix, if you are interested. Just know that the reason there is fuel splashing back at you is due to the plunger sticking down. So with it sticking down, gas will pour out in the case of a roll over; not good. The other issue is extremely slow fill ups. That is the opposite; plunger stuck in the upward position. The hose will not cure that issue.
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I am aware of all of what you just typed. I read it in this thread already... by you.

I agree with you but unless you want to come over and work on my Jeep for what I get paid to ... I’ll do what I am physically able to do when I can do it. I apologize in advance for my infirmities. I am a worn out aircraft mechanic and I know what’s airworthy and I signed this maintenance off as “OP CHECK GOOD. NO LEAKS NOTED”. Put my A&P number by my signature and everything. I kept all the parts and when I feel like it, I’ll whittle on (modify) the fuel tank part that failed because it can’t be submerged in fuel for an extended period of time. I haven’t looked but I’m sure that’s what the maintenance manual would read “whittle on the valve until you think it’s going to work as designed”

Thanks for the support
 
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TheGrayRider said:
I am aware of all of what you just typed. I read it in this thread already... by you.

I agree with you but unless you want to come over and work on my Jeep for what I get paid to ... I’ll do what I am physically able to do when I can do it. I apologize in advance for my infirmities. I am a worn out aircraft mechanic and I know what’s airworthy and I signed this maintenance off as “OP CHECK GOOD. NO LEAKS NOTED”. Put my A&P number by my signature and everything. I kept all the parts and when I feel like it, I’ll whittle on (modify) the fuel tank part that failed because it can’t be submerged in fuel for an extended period of time. I haven’t looked but I’m sure that’s what the maintenance manual would read “whittle on the valve until you think it’s going to work as designed”

Thanks for the support
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I honestly think you took my post the wrong way. I was merely pointing out that the hose is not a fix, just in case you had not read the entirety of the thread. It is long and not everyone takes the time to muddle through every post.
Being that I am in California, I cannot come by and give you a hand. But if you were local I would have no problem coming by with a few beers and help you knock it out. (It actually is an easy job with an empty or near empty tank) I can guarantee that if you look around here, you will see I am more than willing to help when I can.

Take care, Rob
 
TheGrayRider said:
I am aware of all of what you just typed. I read it in this thread already... by you.

I agree with you but unless you want to come over and work on my Jeep for what I get paid to ... I’ll do what I am physically able to do when I can do it. I apologize in advance for my infirmities. I am a worn out aircraft mechanic and I know what’s airworthy and I signed this maintenance off as “OP CHECK GOOD. NO LEAKS NOTED”. Put my A&P number by my signature and everything. I kept all the parts and when I feel like it, I’ll whittle on (modify) the fuel tank part that failed because it can’t be submerged in fuel for an extended period of time. I haven’t looked but I’m sure that’s what the maintenance manual would read “whittle on the valve until you think it’s going to work as designed”

Thanks for the support
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If you happen to be driving through Colorado in your TJ hit me up. This was one of the first things I did. Not the funnest thing to do but not hard just time consuming.

Glad the hose is working for you!
 
TheGrayRider said:
I haven’t looked but I’m sure that’s what the maintenance manual would read “whittle on the valve until you think it’s going to work as designed”
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The maintenance manual would read "buy a new tank". I guarantee the maintenance manual doesn't read "instead of fixing problem, replace filler hose with a GM filler hose." Fixing the plunger is the correct fix and it doesn't take that much time or effort if you do it when the tank is near empty.
 
I just wanted to keep the fuel from overflowing when I filled the tank ... I watched a yTube video where the guy shows exactly how to remove, modify, and reinstall the valve. I opted for the easy fix since I would rather chew broken glass than drop the tank and stick my arm in the tank and get car gas all over me. If I have to change a fuel pump, I’ll fix the valve then. Thanks everyone
 
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I too ordered the GM hose and had it laying in the pile to be installed later.
At some point I decided to go with a UCF tank skid that raises the tank 1" so fixing the factory valve was in order.
Super ez to do when and if you need to! At least your valve wasn't stuck shut where you couldn't get fuel into it.

BTW A&P mechanics are getting harder to come by!
 
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Farmergreg said:
I too ordered the GM hose and had it laying in the pile to be installed later.
At some point I decided to go with a UCF tank skid that raises the tank 1" so fixing the factory valve was in order.
Super ez to do when and if you need to! At least your valve wasn't stuck shut where you couldn't get fuel into it.

BTW A&P mechanics are getting harder to come by!
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Fortunately I discovered the easy way to remove the valve from the hose. We had another one come in that the valve didn't fix. I needed to remove it, so I decided to smack it to make the ring smaller and collapse it in on itself to be removed. It turned out to be even easier than I thought.
GM Valve.JPG
 
Curious if this problem effects 2004 model years. I recently picked up an 04 LJ and have run a few tanks thru it with none or these problems. It is in need of a fuel pump and I will be installing a savvy tank skid as I’m replacing the pump. Would it be a good idea to modify the check valve in the process or if it ain’t broke don’t fix it as my dad always says.

Thanks
 
Johnnyf said:
Curious if this problem effects 2004 model years. I recently picked up an 04 LJ and have run a few tanks thru it with none or these problems. It is in need of a fuel pump and I will be installing a savvy tank skid as I’m replacing the pump. Would it be a good idea to modify the check valve in the process or if it ain’t broke don’t fix it as my dad always says.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I've never had this problem with my 04.
 
MBJ said:
The above was originally posted by SHoppe715 on Jeep Forum 02-27-2012. It’s been linked to in a number of places. It was one of the first fixes I made to my 2005 Wrangler when I bought it in June 2015. It is straight forward and works great - exactly as described.

The part is GM Fuel Tank Filler Hose #15131046. It's available on Amazon new for <$30, so don't mess with finding a used one.

A few additional things to note: The wheel well liner is held on by a number of plastic plugs you can remove (carefully) with a door panel remover tool (looks like a screwdriver pry-bar with a slot in the blade). I was able to save and re-use all of mine. Access to the old filler hose clamps is limited. I used a mini right-angle ratchetting screwdriver to undo the old hose clamps. Once I got the original fill hose out (with a little rocking, tugging, prying, and cursing), I used an electric miter saw to cut the new hose to size. It gives a nice clean cut on these heavy reinforced hoses. I made several passes, going back and forth to the jeep till the length was just right since you can’t un-cut. That said, his measurements were accurate. The new one goes on much more easily. If it's cold, you can blow the ends of the new hose with a hair dryer or heat gun a bit to soften it up. (Obviously, don't try to loosen the old hose this way, as it is connected to a gas tank, gasoline vapors are EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE and you would risk an explosion ;-) I put on new stainless hose clamps, rather than use the old partially corroded ones and was able to tighten them with a normal nut driver. Reassembly was easier than disassembly.

Good luck.

BTW - Another issue with 2005 and 2006 Jeep Wranglers is a wiring problem with the OBD-II computer which results in it not resetting properly. This will result in your failing a vehicle emissions test, if your state has them. Chrysler put out "TSB 25-001-07" for this problem. It's a lifetime warranty repair. Any Jeep dealer will fix for free if you encounter it.
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Chris said:
I came up with a cheap and easy fix for the 2005 - 2006 TJ / LJ fuel overflow problem. To clarify, I'm referring to the issue of gas "burping" out of the filler neck right after the pump clicks off when the tank is full. The cause is the ethanol in the gas causing plastic parts in the Inlet Check Valve (ICV) to bind and not close quickly enough to prevent fuel back-splash when full.

Owners of 2005 - 2006 TJ / LJ Wranglers were left up shit creek by Chrysler and the NHTSA on this one. '07 and newer got a warranty extension - NHTSA closed the investigation taking the heat off Chrysler - '05-'06 owners got the shaft. There's almost no point I filing a complaint with NHTSA any more because our complaints were already dismissed as "Internet hype".

You can either jump through Chrysler's flaming hoops and beg for some "goodwill" assistance with a $1200 dealer repair (parts & labor to replace the whole tank) which means you still shell out a $200 "co-pay", or you can order a <$30 GM hose with a flapper style check valve and be done with it. This is how GM fixed the exact same problem in the Trailblazers, Envoys, Bravadas, etc.

Amazon has the replacement part for around $30 here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUCRISO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

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The bulge in the middle is a little flapper valve:

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Here's our lower hose that connects the filler tube to the tank:

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Here's a how to guide:
The inside diameters are identical. Cut 1 1/4"off the small end and 1 3/4" off the big end. I started out only cutting about 3/4" from the small end to make it the same length as our hose, but it can't make the bend without kinking. I cut some more off and it made for less of a bend and no kink. If you have a body lift, you'll probably need to cut less off. Start small, you can always cut more but once you cut it too short you're on your own...:

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Swap your old clamps onto the GM part:

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The lower clamp has a little clip on it that you put at the top of the hose so you can feel that it's oriented right when you put in on the tank. The round notch on the GM hoseis there to align it with its intended tank, use it as a reference for installing the Jeep clamp. This is very important when it comes to re-installing the new hose. You'll have to feel for this clip because you won't be able to see it clearly:

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That's it!

Reinstall and you're done. I had to remove the 4 torx screws attaching the filler neck to the body to get the new hose on it. I didn't have to disconnect any other lines or take it completely out, but just needed to move the neck around to get the new hose on.


Removal and istallation on a TJ is extremely simple.

Access through lower wheel well cover:

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Loosen the 2 hose clampsand remove the original rubber hose. (1/4" screw clamp upper & 5/16" screw clamp lower) I found it easier to remove the stock hose with the upper filler neck still attached to the body so I could pull down on it.

Cut GM hoseand swap Jeep clamps over (see previous posts).

Remove the 4 torxscrews attaching upper filler pipe to body. You don't have to remove the pipe completely. I didn't even disconnect the tank vent, axle vent, and locker pump lines. You'll only need to move and twist it around a bit to get the new hose on:

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Install modified GM hose, tighten all fasteners, replace trim pieces as necessary - you're done!!!

Note: Make sure the hose is oriented correctly. If the flapper sits crooked or upside down it won't work right. The round notch on the big end of the GM hose before cutting it is for orienting it to its intended tank. You'll have to feel for the little clip on the Jeep hose clamp and make sure it sits at 12 o'clock on the tank inlet.

Here's the installed hose:

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Thx a bunch for your in depth explanation !
 
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Using the GM hose to address the "fuel spit back" problem is a hack - a band-aid rather than a fix. This technique was first posted in the Internet many years ago and has made the rounds enough times in the jeep forums that it has become permanently embedded in the collective knowledge base and won't go away.

The problem is caused by a sticking plastic overflow valve at the inlet to the fuel tank.

The actual fix is is to drop the tank, sand the nubs on the plastic piece in the overflow valve , reassemble the valve then raise the tank back in place. The only "part" required is a piece of sandpaper. There is a link to a how-to video in Post #44, re-posted here:

 
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Mr. Bills said:
Using the GM hose to address the "fuel spit back" problem is a hack - a band-aid rather than a fix. This technique was first posted in the Internet many years ago and has made the rounds enough times in the jeep forums that it has become permanently embedded in the collective knowledge base and won't go away.

The problem is caused by a sticking plastic overflow valve at the inlet to the fuel tank.

The actual fix is is to drop the tank, sand the nubs on the plastic piece in the overflow valve , reassemble the valve then raise the tank back in place. The only "part" required is a piece of sandpaper. There is a link to a how-to video in Post #44, re-posted here:

Click to expand...
To add a small bit, the fix to the nub clearance solves all of the fuel filling related issues including slow trickle in fills, intermittent spit back, and similar. I've fixed several now with the GM band-aid installed by dropping the tank and doing it correctly. I also discovered that the GM valve is plastic and nicely breaks up into small bits that fall out of the hose if you fix the tank and want to remove the band-aid.
 
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Mr. Bills said:
Using the GM hose to address the "fuel spit back" problem is a hack - a band-aid rather than a fix. This technique was first posted in the Internet many years ago and has made the rounds enough times in the jeep forums that it has become permanently embedded in the collective knowledge base and won't go away.

The problem is caused by a sticking plastic overflow valve at the inlet to the fuel tank.

The actual fix is is to drop the tank, sand the nubs on the plastic piece in the overflow valve , reassemble the valve then raise the tank back in place. The only "part" required is a piece of sandpaper. There is a link to a how-to video in Post #44, re-posted here:

Click to expand...


The hose is a hack. The valve is the fix. Maybe it'll stick one day.

:LOL:
 
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