Those are part of the fuel pump assembly and not separately serviceable as far as I know.
Wrangler TJ Gas Overflow Fix
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Mine has 250,000 miles and I'm highly considering replacing the fuel pump while the tank is already down when I eventually do mine.
At that mileage, replace the pump (which is an integrated unit with the rest of those bits). I'd also add a pigtail in the wiring harness so the tank can drop more easily (or doesn't need to for other work).
If you're not familiar with the connectors watch this YT video (one of the best detailed, steady camera, well lit YT I've seen).
Clean connectors before trying to disco, air, spray, whatever. A mini-screwdriver was needed to release the top one even after the red 'lock' was removed - the press tab would not release it.
We pulled the flares and inner fender to get to the evap hose out of fear of breaking the connector doing it by feel. Found it very hard to see and get an angle for fingers at the same time. Took that time rather than risk breaking something and a major PITA.
To reiterate, I had to use a cheater on a breaker bar to pop the steel ring, even with the proper tool. YMMV. Be aware that the fuel pump is a jack-in-the-box when the ring suddenly releases (and note the FP position). It's all easy after that, notwithstanding the dread of breaking the culprit housing when pulling it out. Steady sideways/downward pull got it for me. Went in easy as did the steel ring over a new o-ring.
What he said.. Talked about doing just that then promptly forgot. Still on the floor so now is the time.
I keep not doing it, but fortunately you can do that when the tank is up. I'll definitely do it before any future work back there.
I've been putting this off for nearly 2 years and now finally might have a reason to do it because my sending unit seems to have developed a dead spot around half a tank that triggers a cel and makes the gauge drop to empty.
Anybody got a link for a DIY fuel tank tuck? I hate taking stuff apart just for repairs and not making things better while I'm at it, and a savvy gts isn't in the budget right now.
Anybody got a link for a DIY fuel tank tuck? I hate taking stuff apart just for repairs and not making things better while I'm at it, and a savvy gts isn't in the budget right now.
New pump, old one for spare. Lord knows what the price will be in 5 more years (if available). Hopefully my FP has many miles left in it at 32k.
.. if you can get one. Backorder when I checked last week and we know how that goes.
Kinda did me a favor tho', not spending that money until I hammer my skid once or twice.
Of course I spent the cash anyway on the Tuffy drawer.. hey, it's near the gas tank.
.. if you can get one. Backorder when I checked last week and we know how that goes.
Kinda did me a favor tho', not spending that money until I hammer my skid once or twice.
Of course I spent the cash anyway on the Tuffy drawer.. hey, it's near the gas tank.
True. I haven't proved that I need to raise my tank whatsoever. And really, with the extra overhang of the LJ it doesn't hang into the departure angle nearly as much as it does on a TJ, even with my tucked rear bumper. Still, it's that work without coming out better than it started that bothers me.
There's one buried in @jjvw 's thread probably 3-4 years ago now. IIRC you just cut and measure 1" up on the flanges.
That's what I was picturing but I figured if it was that simple it would have been done before. Sounds like it has.
I hate finding stuff in his build thread though.
It's pretty self explanitory once the plastic tank comes out. The mounting flanges need to get dropped down an inch. And the hold down straps need to be made to work again.
That's what I was picturing but I figured if it was that simple it would have been done before. Sounds like it has.
I hate finding stuff in his build thread though.
More people need to do it. Both the diy raised tank and find all the useful things in my thread.
Thanks for the advice! I will go ahead and replace the module—I see now that the assembly includes the filter/strainer (and also the sending unit?).
It looks like I want the BOSCH 67756:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1124261
RockAuto also lists the AUTOTECNICA CY0516865 as the “Premium” option, but there’s not much detail listed, and it’s way cheaper, which doesn’t seem to make sense. Does anyone have experience comparing the two? I would tend toward the BOSCH because I know the name…
When I’m in there, given the age and mileage, I’m assuming it’s worthwhile to clean the inside of the tank with something like Delphi FC01 or STAR BRITE Star Tron Tank Cleaner—any preference on this?
Also can someone clarify the bit about adding a pigtail to make dropping the tank easier?
Thanks for the link to this video. Looks like there’s some differences between the 2004 and 2005-2006, but definitely good info.
That's what I used.
I've never even heard of the AUTOTECNICA brand.
I had very little debris (individual specs wiped up with a shop towel) when I pulled my pump at ~100,000 miles for a failed fuel level sender. It couldn't hurt to use one of those products, though.
I'm not familiar with that so I'll let @rasband clarify.
I believe it's 3 wires to the sender, so I'll likely add a male and female plug as a quick disconnect. Otherwise you have to drop the tank a few inches to reach the connector on the fuel pump (at least on the late models).
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4151
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4148
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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Those are the connector ends to make an extension for the fuel pump wiring?
If so, that’s a good idea and I’ll have to remember that.